jimmy seale

one thing you can think about is using brake blocks...the friction liner is segmented so you can use a strip of material the size(wide) and cut it into pieces and rivit/bolt it to the disc..on the rigs we used brass bolts with steel nuts, then cut and peened the brass screws over so the nuts won't back off...then when it was time to reblock we pulled the brake bands and used a hammer to break the studs off by shearing the brass bolts.didn't take long to reline if you had the brake blocks there pre drilled and enough bolts/nuts. nice lookin hammer,jimmy

good work and luck on the show..now for a demo you could shave a wookie for the audience? :D

Bless you all!!

this is sad news,,, a liberal dose of buck shot is in order....hope the stuff is recovered

i have used jb weld with hit and miss success and fiber glass resin...but that is kinda hard to judge how much to mix up, but the gurilla glue will expand some upon curing so be aware of that

that sure ain't your daddys bearing press... :D amazing! i suspect you best know what your doing, i wonder what it would cost just to heat that up,much less the steel,it probobly said but my german is rusty (non existant) but that was cool non the less,jimmy

good your ok...but next time pick on something your own size :D

the air that we all breathe is only about 21% free oxygen, and it burns stuff pretty efficently! but in a O2 cylinder the "air" is almost 100% O2 so you can imagine the potential train wreck when heat/spark is introduced...besides being under pressure,and "potentel stored energy" there,it will rupture violently,am i trying to "scare" you? of coarse. can it be cut? yes if properly done, best way is to fill with water and cut it.you can displace with water,empty and cut with band saw, the key is to displace the whole volume and you'll be in good shape,good luck

that is great, but...i bet you didn't do that with your grandaddys 3# cross pien :D but seriously great job!!!

that is fantastic!!

howdy from west texas drax....pull up a stump and stay awhile, lots of great/knowledable folks here including a few aussies. will be seeing ya around,jimmy

howdy from texas mark, come on in and sit a spell. lots of fine folks here, jimmy

another thing to look at is the bottom of the tank...a 1970 something have holes in it....but for a 100$ it sure is worth considering

remember this...the more connections = more places to possably leak = a possable failure point. as stated above, they will equilize and shouldn't ever be a problem. i personaly think that adding a splitter or flow control will be a waste of money on this project, but that's up to you. i do wish you sussess on it and be sure to put up pics.

we have never used a "splitter" on hydraulics because the cylinders will equlize when load is applyed. as for "play" i've seen too much and too little be a problem. one thing to be aware of is the slack you will have over the system and at the extended position, you may need to consider a mount of some type at the cylinder heads, to help keep them from bowing in the extended range. as a disclaimer i do not have a degree so this is just doghouse engeneering, just remember to have a weak link some where(usually the pressure release) to avoid a train wreck/and or injury.also on it's maiden voyage cycle it a few times to purge the system,good luck, jimmy

very cool!!! be that will teach that ol pot to burn stuff :D

just some ideas....forged fittings is the way to go..heavier the better,also you may want to build target tees as it will help with pulsation issues and give the lines a "cushion". i would also put in unions so the piping could be removed with out being broke down a piece at a time for repairs,etcc. ok some more obnoxious advice...if you are building a oil resaviour,make sure you have enough room for expantion,a vented cap,a suction screen, and if possable put in a partition in it so your suction is seperated from your discharge,as to let any "junk" settle out. also blow out all fittings/piping before installation. use non detergent oil, and maybe install a liquid filled pressure guage in the line. AND at the risk of sounding stupid....make sure the pump/motor rotation is the same way.and....if equiped check the motor/pump coupling, and besure of the alignment.a oil drain port would be good to have,as would be having the discharge hoses down low so it dosen't "slough" up the fluid and make the pump cavitate,AND.....good luck, be safe and make some guards to cover stuff up, jimmy

i just LOVE that rich!!! another outstanding example

looks to me like no penetration. also are you welding mild? i don't believe it has a droped leg,but if you open her up be sure to UNPLUG IT :D ! but seriously if you open it up check the contacts,cooling fan and vents, leads(tightness and maybe pull off and shine em up) and all screws from plug in to stinger/ground clamp, also ac/dc setting...i'm just throwing this out there, i'm certeanly not trying to berate yout knowledge atall, but some times ya can't see the forest for the trees, good luck jimmy

awsome job!!!

i have a 4 x 36 form lowes for a 100$ a few years ago but....limited in grits..it has a 6" disc that i use too, but i only use this for profile and rough sanding..but it dose do it's job..good luck whith what ever you get

that sure ought to cut some things of!!! jimmy

maybe drill a hole at the end so it dosen't crack any longer?

prayers for peace and good results..jimmy