• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About c.baum

  • Rank
  • Birthday 06/14/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Thuringia, Germany

Recent Profile Visitors

922 profile views
  1. Hi folks, i'm so sorry that i lost sight of this topic, but i've been in parental leave so i spend the time with my son. I hope you understand that. At first, many thanks for the links! Many nice ideas. Secondly: I've attached a picture of my current DIY dies. They work really fine for me. On the pic you see the 25mm radius fullering set. I use this set for "aggressive" drawing or large fullering. The base is a simple 10mm mild steel plate bent around the original die, installed with four M12 bolts. This is the first set i made, so i tried to make the bending easier by fullering the lines in the bend. It worked fine for the bending job, but unfortunately this caused the plate being bent open when fastening the bolts. So my next plates will be bend without the fuller. I also had the idea to make the plates of spring steel to prevent them from opening too. Further die shapes are planed too. The first set of 75mm radius dies is already made and waits to been mounted on the base plate. Smaller fullering dies like 15mm radius and axe dies are planed too. I'll keep you informed!! p.s.: one the pic you can also see the mounting tool for holding my spacers.
  2. i really like the idea of the flip over spacers
  3. That's exactly what i meant. But you can't say that every steel has to bee hardened slightly over Curie temperature and tempered at 200°C/400°F. The temps differ among the steel types and also depend on what you want to use it for. So the steel data sheet always should be consulted. E.g. spring steels become pretty hard when tempered at 200°C, usable for rough working-knives. But if you want to use it for a spring you need a much more complex tempering.
  4. see the tempering diagram below
  5. of course the kitchen oven didn't reach 400°C/752°F (looking at the color something about 300°C/572°F). I just wanted to say that this worked though (165 lb power hammer dies). That's what i meant saying that this steel pardons a lot of mistreatment. 400°C/752°F is what the steel data sheet says to be the minimum temp.
  6. Of course Leidenfrost is a additional factor. But in my eyes even moving the tool in the quenching medium will show different cooling speeds at different diameters, not to mention the warming of the medium resulting a alteration of the cooling speed...
  7. nice hint, unfortunately not available, neither at amazon UK nor amazon DE.
  8. that's an interesting statement. Which dimensions should the spring have at its cross-sectional area?I could imagine that the spring needs to be very very thin to support the movement of the top tool. 5mm thickness might be almost too thick in my eyes.
  9. Hi Alan, thanks for your post! I've got a similar system to mount my spacers (pics following, thought I had some on my phone..). I already thought about using the spring fullers often shown in several post. But don't they have just exactly one point (equals one distance) where the faces are exactly parallel?! Yeah, seems to be a general problem. Many interesting posts lost most of the pics.
  10. 4140 (or 42CrMo4) is a pretty undemanding steel. Just heat up to 820-880°C (light red), soak for 10-15 min and quench in water or oil. Don't forget to stop the quenching at 70°C and to temper immediately. 400°C is pretty hard to tell by annealing colors. I made some tolls of 4140 by quenching in water an annealing in the kitchen oven at full power. It worked really good. As i said the steel is really undemanding and pardons a lot of mistreatment.
  11. Hi folks, I've got a little cute power hammer (pics see below) with a 165 lb ram. The only dies i have are simple flat dies. The cutie was built in 1978 in Russia so there are no other original dies available. Other dies from recent manufacturers with the same ram mass are much too small. So I got the hint to use hand tools but the hammer has so much power that i can't hold any tool workable. That's why I tried to make some dies i can mount on the original ones. I took some 10mm steel plate, fitted it to the dies and welded a half cutted 50mm rod on it to build a drawing die. I tried to "clamp" the DIY ones an the dies with screws, but the one on the ram just didn't want to hold. So now I'm searching for two things: 1) Methods for fastening the DIY dies. How do you fasten your selfmade ones? 2) Shapes of workable dies. Which shapes of dies do you use wherefor? I'm really dying to see you creations! Many thanks in advance!!!!
  12. I actually got the following information: water does 200 K/s, oil 100 K/s. The "source" doesn't say which kind of oil. But after thinking about the whole thing i don't know if it is that simple. Quenching a thing with a high mass will take longer cause there's more heat saved in the core beeing conducted to the outside, so in my eyes you can't say "quenching in water at 800°C takes 4 sec". Seems to be a bit more difficult...
  13. Sounds like your anvil might be made of high chromium content steel. Which is not hardenable. Welding on a already hardened plate may destroy the hardening of the plate. Welding such steel is difficult as well. If you dare to weld a plate of C45 on it, you maybe want to harden it afterwards. Another way could be to use welding electrodes for hardfacing. I've done this on my old anvil a few year ago. Really good results but requires good welding skills.
  14. Nice info, never heard of that. But it still is just a relation. Many thanks anyway!
  15. Hi folks, got a question concerning the cooling times in CCT. If you have a look at the diagram there are several curves showing the composition after different cooling speeds. Everything ok for me but how do i know how fast a cooling medium does the cooling? Are there any rough rules of thumb (e.g. cooling in oil does xxx K/s, cooling in water yyy K/s,...)? Many thanks in advance!!!