Jump to content
I Forge Iron

James Allcorn

Members
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Paris, TX USA (100 Miles NE of Dallas)
  • Interests
    Smithing, real estate, guns, 16 grandchildren.

Recent Profile Visitors

778 profile views
  1. I used a Schneider Electric VFD to start an Anyang 88. IIRC it was set to start the hammer over a time of about 6-10 seconds. The only problem was getting the VFD (that model anyway) programmed, finally got a master industrial electrician to do it, the manual was NOT intuitive! Once set up it worked fine. Mostly I ran it at the rated speed but sometimes ran it a bit slower just to see if I liked the slower speed. Never did run it faster but could have. Sold the hammer with the VFD.
  2. I replaced an Anyang 88 hammer with the Blu 155 about 2 years ago (replacement had nothing to do with the Anyang, all related to my electric company). Both are good hammers with a few differences. My Anyang was new in 2012 so there may be modifications to later models. Single strike: Both will allow a single strike (or strike and hold) but the Anyang was difficult for me to put in single strike (SSM) mode quickly. The Blu has a switch on the side you can simply press down to put it in single strike mode, then press the foot pedal. I rarely use SSM but for one project it really saved the day. I can't get on and off the foot treadle quickly enough to prevent a double strike and I needed to NOT have the work be hit twice if it were not exactly in the same location on the hammer die (top tooling bolted to bottom die). I can let the ram down slowly on the Blu, or stomp the pedal and it will hit very hard and hold. Flip the switch up, depress the pedal and you are back to normal operation. My only gripe about the Blu is after I finish a heat and am back in the forge or off doing something else, the ram will slowly rise until it hits a micro switch. The switch is height adjustable to easily accommodate various heights of stock, etc. Anyway, the ram will press the switch slightly and allow air to escape but not far enough to cause the ram to drop. This will let enough air escape to cause the compressor to run. Normally I can't hear the air hissing as I wear ear muffs, but I will hear the air compressor kick on. A simple touch to the foot pedal will cause the ram to drop slightly, stopping the air. I contacted Blu about this and they said it was "Normal". No big deal but very much an irritation and something I wish Blu would address. I only use flat dies with homemade tooling, either hand held or bolted to the dies. I can bolt tooling to the top die of the Blu but could not to the Anyang top die (this may have changed with later models). I'm an occasional user and do mostly ornamental work. Either hammer will do what I need. I also like the fact that the Blu is quiet when not being used.
  3. Thanks. That’s a great help. I have the frame textured and will weld the parts tomorrow, drill rivet holes, then start on the rivets. With luck will get the wire in this week. You guys have no idea how much I appreciate your comments. Hmmm. Off topic but just noticed my profile picture. Army (USMA) beat Air Force Academy today so the Commander In Chiefs Trophy may have a new home for the next year!
  4. Anvil, you said, "These tongs are like large bolt tongs. Each end has a piece of flat stock rivited on. These pads will swivel. The pads grab the screen and the tongs are piveted to tighten the screen". You don't happen to have a picture of those tongs do you? I'd like to see a pic if possible. Thanks.
  5. I never cease to be amazed at how creative you guys are!
  6. Thanks. That’s good information. I have started a frame pretty much like you described. I was wondering how to get the wire tight. I’ll give it a try after I modify a pair of old tongs. JA
  7. Hmmm. Well, I've been an Iforge member for at least 10 years, maybe more and thought I had all this stuff on my profile. Last time or 2 I tried logging in it locked my account. What's up w/ that? Reset the pw and was able to login and post this question and got your reply. Then tried logging in again and got same thing, locked out again! But anyway, I'm on here now and then, but not all the time. I'm in NE Texas (USA), 100 miles NE of Dallas. Paris, TX. Back to the firescreen. Pretty simple. straight bottom and sides about 28" wide X 26" tall on the sides. The top bar is curved, maybe 4 inch rise measured from the center point up from the end of the sides. The whole thing will be steel and freestanding w/ a small foot on each side. Not terribly fancy. Probably hammered and maybe riveted for accent. The client dropped her old ones off and just said, put a mesh in it (plural, there are 2 screens, seems the F/P has 2 openings). The existing F/P screens have a sheet of Pyrex glass. She doesn't like that, wants to feel the heat. So, I need to know the best way to attach the F/P wire mesh to the frame and have it reasonably tight.
  8. I need to build a fireplace screen. I have the mesh (ordered from King) but what is the best way to attach the mesh to the frame and keep the wire tight? The top bar of the screen has an arch. The whole thing is about 30"x30".
×
×
  • Create New...