Dave51B

Thanks Slag. Research is not one of my strong suits. But I try and will continue..... Dave

I believe you stated it was previously your grandfathers. Why not just put it up on a shelf and have him, it, watch over you while you learn the craft on a better tool. Life is Good Dave

Thanks Thomas, Kozzy and Judson.....I try to remember to ask this question whenever I run into a new Smith or go to different groups or shops. The date 1940 is just an arbitrary date, no real significance. Just back in the day when this would be common work for a Smith. Of course I realize there would be different prices depending on the share. Different size shares, adding a point, adding cutting edge or just drawing out and setting the suck. Any info you guys throw at me will be much obliged. Thanks Dave

Slag, thanks for the reply and suggestions I have done quit a bit of research on the subject, to no avail. I haven't given up yet though. Just thought I'd throw it out here for some input.. Glen, thanks for the link to Frank. I have read a lot on his site. Not everything I'm sure. I'm not presently looking for shares. I have several plows and extra shares, along with 2 replacement points to forge weld on an old share. I'd just like to find what it would have cost in the day, to have the work done The search continues..... Life is Good Dave

I am trying to find out what a smith, in say 1940, would charge to sharpen a plow share. My Dad, raised on the farm, now 91, can't remember. Jimmie, 95, a member of the B/S group I belong to, doesn't remember either. But, did say whatever it was, it wasn't enough....I talked to Ben Carlson at Quad State a couple of years ago. (He has a vid up on the process) and didn't remember either. I have not found anything in my searches to help. With all that being said....Does anyone have an old price sheet or anything, that would help? Thanks for any insight. Dave

Jeepers Millhand....If your going to add all those conditions, I guess I'll have to save myself all the trouble of a road trip to help ya out. Dave

Millhand, When you get it bolted down.....let me know and I will gladly get that counterweight out of the way for ya..... Dave

Do you know any masonry contractors? I would think 3 scaffold jacks would work, to change anvil height.... Life is Good Dave

Hey Mark1, not to argue, but most of the charts I have found say around 250 fpm. If you meant meters per minute, that would be close I think. Let me know if I'm mistaken. Thanks...... Dave

Scoot, finally found something I know a little about. Actually after thinking about it a bit, yours is an early style. Probably on the #4 mower, if it matters. Life is Good Dave

Mark1.....Thanks mate....g'day Dave

Not a tool.....It's a pitman head for a sickle bar mower. By the green paint, I would guess a John Deere #5. Dave

I must be way out of line on this. But did Picasso have to paint barns to become a famous painter? I don't see the need to learn to beat on A-36 when all your learning is hammer control. And blade steel moves different as has been stated, forge thick grind thin. I just don't like the thought that to be a top of the line blacksmith, you have to make blades. When truly, in my small world, I see more grinding ,sanding, and wood work , in making a blade than smithing. If I am politically incorrect, let me know and I 'll be quiet. I've just seen an awful lot of great smithing that has nothing to do with making blades. And by no means am I putting blade smiths down. No way I could reproduce the blades I see here. But, I see more smithing in some of the beautiful entrance gates, windows and arches of old. Dave

So Thomas.....are you saying, the ultimate goal in smithing is to make knives, or swords? I guess that make sense, kinda like you need to learn wrestling before you play football. I knew I was going to get in trouble on this......But Steve started it. lol Dave

Aww Steve, I know what you meant....ha ha . I was just wanting to rattle a chain or two. I just keep hearing you need to learn blacksmithing before you make any kind of blade. So what's the use, if 3/4ths of the work is grinding, drilling, wood working, fitting and sanding? I mean, do you need to learn to do a rat tail scroll or do a mortise and tennon joint. How to make nails or upset a long bar in the middle to make a knife. Sure you need to heat and beat, But the beauty of the blade, I my uneducated opinion is not in the smithing per say.(unless your making Damascus billets). As I said before......not a knife maker Life is Good Dave

Heardhead.....Not to be snotty or anything but the size of the mouse hole will depend on the size of the long stock you wish to heat. As stated, you could move the fire pot, or wait till that long stock project comes along. On another note...I do appreciate your service, I trashed a knee in high school football and could not pass the physical to join up and have always regretted it.... Life is Good Dave

Guess I'll never be a true blacksmith, or should I say a real blacksmith. By the way, when making a knife, just what percentage of the work is actual heating and beating on iron?......inquiring mind wants to know .........now I'm in trouble. Dave

Hardhead, I see a lot of camo in these pics. I will assume you are in the military.....sooo, thank you for yer service ! The only problem I see...(and it may be camera angle) is you firepot is under the hood. Maybe I'm wrong, but will you be able to heat a 5' piece of stock in the middle over the sweet spot of your fire? If not perhaps a mouse hole door in the back of the hood will solve that problem. Nice build, I would be happy to fire that up and test it for you. Just a small distance problem......... Life is Good Dave

Welcome, from Danville. Non knife maker here....... Life is Good Dave

So true.... Dave

Sorry bigb....coal forge, here so no help form me....... Dave

Nice Jonah... Hope you don't mind if I use your idea. One thing I have found on my spring fullers is, if I leave the top fuller a bit longer than the bottom, it helps to get the work piece between them when coming from the fire. Life is Good Dave

Hey little Hoosier Buddy.......good to meet ya. You were right, the Parke Co. group is a good one. John Bennett is the leader of that group. He just did a demo at our IBA meeting on Saturday the 10th near Stilesville. If you do YouTube, he has some pretty good vids up for beginners and skilled alike. (And to toot my own horn, he even mentions me in one of em") I don't belong to that group, because RSMA meetings are also the first Saturday of the month. But I have visited a couple of times when I could. Let me know if I can help you in any way, or you have any questions. Life is good Dave