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Found 17 results

  1. Hi, I was wondering if anyone could help me identify whether this anvil is cast or forged? Also if there has been a plate welded onto the top? I was plan on cleaning up the bumps on the face after buying it as it is fairly flat overall but don't know if it's worth it with if it's cast iron. Fairly new to this but I thought the texture on the top looked cast but then it seemed to have handling holes in the sides so I just don't know. I can try listening for a ring and looking at rebound but it's an hour and a half away to pick up so id rather know before hand. Thanks for any help. Iv attached some pictures for reference!
  2. Hey guys first time posting but I’ve been reading up for some time. This site and the people on here are awesome. I need some help. Can anyone ID this forge? Is it a forge? haha. Besides a blower, what do I need to get this thing operating? I’m brand new at all this and I’m itching to get started. No cracks in the pan the legs are rotted out so will probably need to dream up a way to fix that as well thanks for your time
  3. So who know's anything about this beast. Was told it was from England...no way to confirm. No names, patents, numbers, etc... 5 feet 8 inches long. 12 inches wide. 3 inches tall 4 hardy holes that are different sizes from each other. Smallest just under 1-1/2 inches, largest around 2 inches. All 4 taper as they descend. Weight = heavy...I'm guessing more than 250 lbs.
  4. Howdy Yall, As much as I have searched, I haven't been lucky in finding an answer to this question. I'm going to be making a brake rotor forge for my backyard and from everything that I have heard, these things are made of CAST IRON. However, after I clean the rust off, the rotor is shiny silver. I DON'T WANT THAT. I like the cast iron, black, seasoned finish and would like my brake drum forge to imitate that. There's no way that seasoning it would get it from shiny silver to skillet-black either, so I'm at a loss at what to do. Any ideas? Thanks
  5. Hello all new to this site. I'm a beginner hobbiest metal banger (don't wanna call myself even a wanna be smith yet haha). Right now I'm banging on a RR tracks and I, like everyone else, am looking for an anvil. I ran across someone that has one and it looks cheap but not sure. He said he would sell it to me for $50 and the only identifying mark on it is an extruded extruded "NO. 50". I'M ASSUMING IT'S CAST BECAUSE THE LETTERS AND NUMBERS ARE IN FACT RAISED CAN SOMEBODY PLEASE GIVE ME SOME INSIGHT ON WHAT THEY THINK THIS IS? And if it's worth $50 thanks all
  6. I was recently on the Anvil section of the forums asking about replace a cast iron face with an steel one. I haven't quite yet decided on whether I will or not. However I am leaning towards not replace the cast iron face. Now my issue with the cast iron face is just how soft it is. I realize that sounds a little bit strange however it dents rather easily, (I was under the impression that Cast Iron was very brittle not soft.) So I was wondering if possibly when I refinished the anvil face with a Angle grinder I might have undone whatever temper there was on it. (Not knowing too to much about proper anvil care at the time) What's your take on it. Attached is a picture of the face. I'll see about getting more picture/video of it. Thanks -Ray
  7. I've heard all the horror stories, and even preached against them myself, but this is the first time I have actually tested the limits. Sometimes it is hard to separate truth from people joking around, so the best way to find out is to do it yourself. This is the 15 lb one from Harbor Freight that I have held onto for the occasional rivet and the like. I used a 4 pound hammer to "do the business". I learned a lot from this. . ...and it was also kinda fun. IMG_0012.MOV
  8. So I'm pretty new to blacksmithing, got hooked on it as kid only now at 17 getting into the hobby side of things. Unfortunately being 17 does mean a limited budget. My first ever anvil I ever got was a antique anvil/vise combo things that belonged to my grand father.My grandfather broke the vise right out of it, however because it was a Vise combo anvil thing... It has a great big hole in the body of it, were the threads used to sit. So I was thinking of cutting off the vise style base and welding on a new base. (I realize most smiths cringe at the idea of a novice welder [Would like to point out I now have roughly 2 years structural welding experience so I am decently confidant in my welding skills.]messing around with a anvil. But just you wait I'm just getting warmed up.) The other issue I have with the Anvil is the cast iron face on it. It's well a cast iron face, IE. it dents a even a light 1 lbs. hammer blow. I however want to now if it's a good idea to mill off the face in order to weld a steel tools face on to it. I'm going to be working on it in my Auto-Shop class so I will have access to; a mill, mig welding, arc welding, oxyacetylene torches, angle grinders and any other necessary tools. So to recap really quick: 1. Terrible legs and body support on the anvil, is it worth putting a new one on? 2. Removing the cast iron face and replacing it with a steel one? The anvil face is 6'' by 2&3/4'' by 1/8'' The steel face I plan on using is 6'' by 2&7/8'' by 3/8'' (L*W*H) The step is 3/4'' by 2&3/4''(L*W) The Horn is 3&1/2'' long the tip is roughly 3'' in diameter the widest part (Next to the step) is 7'' in diameter (L*D) The full height is 5&1/2'' The Tip of the horn to the far end of the base is 1' Attached are pictures of the anvil. Thanks for having read trough that short story of mine, -Ray Ps, even if I don't end up cutting and welding stuff I still plan on cleaning it up. (Sand blasting paint and rust off. Along with re-finishing the horn, as it really flat on top.[As is customary with cast anvils I know.])
  9. Has anyone seen something like this before? What was it used for and what else can I use it for. It is about 26x20x4". It has two cast holes in the corners (about 1" dia) and one 5/8" drilled in the middle. The two "shafts" are 3" in diameter and have cross holes of various sizes. It has been used to hammer on as there are hammer marks on the surface. Looking at the bottom it appears to be cast iron as it has imperfections or pitting. A hammer bounces of it pretty nicely if that helps. Looking for ideas and uses for this unique table. Thanks for looking. .
  10. Ok so I have been looking for a swage block for some time now and finally i have the money for one to boot. I found this guy selling 4 brand new fresh cast swage blocks and i want to get one but i just want to make sure its not something im going to regret down line like if i had purchased a cast iron anvil or something. He is asking $340 canadian which seems like a good deal to me. The add reads These swage blocks are new castings from a good grade of cast iron. Size: 12-1/4 x 7-1/2 x 3-1/2” thick. 65 lbs Swage Block Notes: You will have to do some light grinding on the swage block at the parting line. The as-cast edges need to be radius ground as well before use. The amount of grinding and polishing you do is your choice.
  11. Hello everyone, I'm new to this site, but everyone here seems to give rather in depth answers to other peoples questions, so I figured I would ask one of my own. I just changed the rotors on my vehicle, they seem to be a cast iron of sorts. I was wondering if it is possible to turn them into a knife, or blade of some kind. If I need to build a hot fire and hammer away for days on end, I'm willing to. But I would like any and all pointers. If possible will you try to keep your answers in laymans terms? I am not quite as fluent in the metallurgy lingo as I should be. Thank you for any and all help!
  12. A small hand held rivet anvil, used for backing up rivets. I like the offset design, so you can get the snout into a tight space and near a corner. It weighs about 5 lbs. Picture of the end for the rivet head. Very few people who visit the museum have any idea what it is used for.
  13. Hello, I could use some help. I am looking at an ad that is selling a "112 Lb Steel Italian Pattern Anvil". From the pictures is looks like the smaller version of one someone posted of his 100 kg Chinese made anvil. His at least said 100 on the side and "Acciaio" on the side. This one only has the number 20 on the side but it looks identical other than it's been painted. I realize that this is not the best quality anvil out there but since I am a beginner and it he's selling it for $300 Canadian I thought I would take a shot if it's cast steel. I just don't want a to end up with a cast iron piece of junk. Any input will be appreciated. Please see the attached pictures.
  14. Wow, What a find. I heard about this forge through my son. His friend had mentioned that these people didn't know what to do with it and were going to junk it. It had been one of their grandfather's. I contacted the friend and he even delivered it to me. As you can see, it's going to need some work but it'll be a labor of love. I also need some advice. I realize I should probably clay it although it shows no evidence of having been clayed. Does anyone have ideas of how thick I should make it? Should I bring it up to the fire pot? I'd appreciate any advice.
  15. Me at the Etowah day use area in N. Georgia. All that remains of the biggest iron working area in the south prior to 1900. All under a lake now, except for this blast furnace, which is around 60-70 ft. tall and could in its heyday run around 9 tons of pig iron a day. Same area I go to get my hematite.
  16. I know this has probably been discussed a million times before on this forum but I guess I'll ask anyway. Is there any way of hard-facing a cheap cast iron doorstop? I have read that the process of welding on a hard face is a waste of time with no guarantee of success. that being said, is there any other way of doing this, such as epoxy glues or with fasteners. I am kind of obsessed with this, but I should probably just drop the idea and get a real anvil!
  17. Would a piece of rock actually give you superior rebound to a cast iron Anvil shaped object?