Ridgewayforge

Looks pretty well uniform. How does it fit?

That.... is a big piece of iron. What're you going to be working on such a large one like that? Ships' anchors?

Don't be afraid of using it. She sat under a house for who knows how long, hitting soft steel isn't going to mess her up.

If there is a seam, there is a good probability that some scale got in there, preventing the adhesion of the metal.

If it blows air well, and can put out the pressure needed, then it is a good bllower. Test it out and let us know! Also, what does it look like? Pictures might help us determine if it is a good blower or not.

Interesting idea- I guess the real question is, does it work? It looks strange from my point of view, that is, from the point of view that I am used to harware store cross and ball peins. But I like the look of it and may have to try one sometime. When you forge welded, how did you keep face and body together until striking them? I have hear of nailing them together, or chiseling spikes on the back of the high carbon. I would greatly like to know how you accomplished this. Thank you, RF

The one on the left appears to be either a small mandrel or a punch of sorts. The one on the right looks like a very small swage block. Good haul! They will be handy. The real question is what are these tools going to be used for for You?

I don't exactly know if that will work. With the metal being struck, the cement would disintegrate. Basically, you'd have a sandbag to hammer on. There would be little rebound. If you call around to machine shops, you might find some off cut chunks to use as an anvil. But, I would discourage using pipe.

With that crack, lining it could present some issue with rusting underneath inside the crack due to condensation.

Is the stock rest made using friction to hold it up?

Looks like some good work! Keep up the smithing!

Fads generally leave a bad taste in some mouths, and RR spikes are just that: sort of a fad. (although, not strictly true.) Some people get into repurposing them, some people don't like them. It all depends on personal preference. I think they're cool. I also don't use many.

What size was the starting stock, and how wide is the hole? Show us what it looks like with a handle!

That is a monster! But please, regale us with the story behind such a beautiful ole girl!

J hooks, S hooks, forks, spoons, dinner bells, gate pulls, flower basket hangers, skewers, bottle openers, chisels, punches, tongs. Those are good beginner projects. As you advance, challenge yourself. Then start making hardies, knives, welded pieces, decorative grates etc etc.

The box will be primarily functional. Are there any good pictoral references of the Victoria and Albert museum collection?

Howdy! I am looking for any advice and inspiration on making some hardware for a hardwood box. (rough dimensions 3ftX2ftX2ft) I want to make it as simple as possible, and I know that I am thinking about a pretty strenuous project. My wood is going to be oak flooring cutoffs, so it will be thin. Has anyone attempted something like this before? Any recommendations/concerns? Thank you! Ridgewayforge

They work reasonably well. I use one, and I find the main problem is like Frosty said, the hardy tends to shift. Another idea for you to ponder is the use of vise-mounte d tools. Then, you can buy smaller stock to make a hardy with a 1/2" shank and have nothing to worry about. Light work is best on it, though.

Centaur Forge Tom Tongs Wolf Jaw tongs are your best bet, maybe a pair of flat jaws too.

Your work is very impressive and inspirational! Please continue to show us more of it!

one thing I will note is that you should not be moving the hammer when drawing out. You should mark an X on your anvil with some soapstone and then hammer there, moving the stock around it. Look at someone using a powerhammer and apply the technique to hand hammering. Other than that, you seem to be doing a good job. Like the others said, clinching the tools down will help immensely in power return. You have good talent, and although I couldn't tell for sure it looked like you were drawing out square to octogon to round to square, which makes everything go faster. Good on ya, looks good and keep improvng! ~Ridgeway Forge

Looks like it would work real well. See if you can;t talk him down a little, and if not nab it if its rare in your parts.

My first blower was a 5 gallon bucket lid. It took forever to get the campfire up to heat, but it worked and I made things out of metal.

Thanks Brian for the link to that, that is truly phenominal work. Bigfoot, I assume that I could always make a small veining hammer out of mild steel, since it will be for light work on small leaves such as this, right? I might do that, since the veining took several heats to accomplish and I need an easier way to do this. What I may end up doing for a hammer such as that is taking a Railroad spike, drifting a hole in the center and rounding off the spike end. Does this seem reasonable?

Thanks Brian for the link to that, that is truly phenominal work. Bigfoot, I assume that I could always make a small veining hammer out of mild steel, since it will be for light work on small leaves such as this, right? I might do that, since the veining took several heats to accomplish and I need an easier way to do this. What I may end up doing for a hammer such as that is taking a Railroad spike, drifting a hole in the center and rounding off the spike end. Does this seem reasonable?