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I Forge Iron

Ridgewayforge

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Everything posted by Ridgewayforge

  1. Well, charcoal will all burn up if you have it in an unlined pot. Charcoal needs little air, and a deep fire, but not a wide fire.
  2. I think I heard something about rubbing two sticks together...... But that might have worked becuase it was in a Texas summer noontime. Perhaps a giant microwave to heat away all that frozen water?
  3. Stain seems like a lot of work for this, you could probably do just as well with spray paint, IMHO.
  4. Sounds like your hammer might have sharp edges, perhaps dress it a little. That is very good, I'd like to say. (In fact, I sometimes still make things with more hammer marks, so good job!) With chamfering, light pecks after you get the bulk moved will smooth out the hamer marks. You can even do it at a lower heat, since its just planishing, really. Keep up the good work!!!
  5. I've never done it, but I have a factory made firepot. I think a conical shape will work for you, just don't make it steep. Have it extend from the air-grate to the lip of the rim. Then, you can use firebrick to make a contained, deeper fire by placing them around the lip when it is seated in the forge. Charcoal will all burn if you have it like coal, you need to keep only what you want burning in contact with the fire. It is looking good, I must say! Keep us posted on the progress!
  6. That sounds pretty good. With charcoal, deeper is better. The charcoal is going to burn burn burn, so keep it contained.
  7. You should be fine if you're keeping it well away from the heat.
  8. That is a brilliant and heartwarming project! I really like that idea! thank you for sharing!
  9. I built one 2 feet by 3 feet with a Champion Whirlwind Firepot. Your first forge will not be your final forge, as I went through several variations before my current design, which I am not fully satisfied with, and will be adapting soon. Think: Table with fire on it, to heat bars. That's the most convenient. Holes in the ground work, as do brake drums, commercial firepots etc. I made a post about mine, if you want specs for it. You can only hit what you can see, and so you tailor the forge to get the metal heated up the way YOU want.
  10. Perhaps try a second piece of coil spring from a different spring. My coil springs I normalize, and they are no problem to file.
  11. A lot of old forges like this did not come *standard* with anything. It was more or less like a free for all, you bought this model forge, with this model of blower, with this model of firepot etc. Also, many times forges were sold without being connected to a brand, becuase of the number of them made. If this is the only part you have, we're working with a lot of unknowns. Many forge-makers used a shape similar to this, so it depends on the other pieces of the forge that you have.
  12. Perhaps a picture would help us to see what we have. Very likely there is one out there, but if you want advice on how to get it up and running, we need to see it.
  13. Even that heat is too high, if it was about to turn white. Depending on your light conditions, it may have already reached the temperature that it is ruined at.
  14. I can see the pointy one being used to create a countersunk hole after punching, but that's just me!
  15. Adman, I made the same mistake you did, when trying to forge some railroad rail. Its decieving, becuase your mind wants to say Hotter=easier to move. When in reality, hotter=crumbling metal. Like everyone else has said, orange is best for this steel. Now, to add to the knowledge of everyone, including myself, I will ask: If we accidentally heat a piece of railroad rail to white heat, and realize it before we hit it, is there anything we can do to make it usable again, or is it plain ruined?
  16. I seem to recall that Buffalo made a knock off Champion 400 with the worm gear and everything. I could be wrong, though.
  17. I think that the problem might have been hit upon: my slitting chisel has a slight asymetry to it, which makes it slide to the side. I will endeavor to correct that by rotating the punch each blow and see how it works for me. I am also going to try flattening out the 1/2" square to see if the wider and thinner material gives me more what I am looking for.
  18. I have been trying to slit and drift for a morticed and tenoned piece as part of a spit project I am working on. However, I am finding that when I try to slit the piece, a chunk of 1/2" square, the slit is always very off-center and not very straight. What small piece of advice am I lacking?
  19. I like the idea, I have not done this. Did you forge braze the wire on to the handle? And, how does it feel in your hand? Copper is a great accent to many works, and creates a great decorative element to that bottle opener. I look forward to seeing how else you figure out where to use it.
  20. I wouldn't offer more than $100, but I would check the gears first on the Champion 400 blower. The blower has a cracked casing, a non-original handle, so make sure you check the fan blade, too. The forge is worth $10, probaby, if that. And tongs are just icinhg on the cake.
  21. Thomas, you're right. I should. But mainly I use a 4lb double faced hammer which fits in my hand nicely. Its one of those things that are on my "to do on an extremely cold and rainy day" list.
  22. I have the same hammer, and you should really dress the face (look in the knife section on how to). The hammer is a little light for the length of handle, I will say. That's my opinion, though.
  23. Yep, I was able to get to it. Very clear and straightforward. Thanks, Glenn! This is a fantastic website, really boosts novice smiths confidence (like mine!) When It warms up, I am going to try and make another header out of spring steel and see how it works.
  24. I thought about working tomorrow outside at the forge, wind chill of -15. When I say I thought, I mean as quick a thought as ever can come through your mind came through, and left for warmer climates! Too cold!!!! But, I hear its a record breaking kind of warm in the land of Australia!
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