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Ridgewayforge

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Everything posted by Ridgewayforge

  1. Ridgewayforge
    If I were you, I'd make SURE you know what alloy it is, before making any mods.
  2. Ridgewayforge
    I have an offer from a luthier that he can give me old, used guitar strings and frets. I like free things, but I really wonder if that's worth it. So, my query is as follows: What can a blacksmith do (if anything) with guitar strings and frets? Thank you for your time and wisdom, one day I'll pass it on! ~Ridgeway Forge
  3. Ridgewayforge
    William Foster. Better pictures would help. But, it is a william foster. 1848.
  4. Ridgewayforge
    I would go look on Centaur Forge or one of those sites. Here's one: http://oldworldanvils.com/postvises/index.html priced at $700 new.
  5. Ridgewayforge
    That's great! You're a true blacksmith: Use what you have on hand!
  6. Ridgewayforge
    I think It might need a bit more dust, dirt, scale and rust. :) Signs of a used shop, although those will come in time! Excellent build, looks like a great place!
  7. Ridgewayforge
    Hi all, I was wondering if there is a formula that can be used to determine how much stock you need if you are going to be drawing out to a certain length. For example, If I were making tongs out of 3/4" round stock, what length of bar would I need to draw out the reins to a given length and a given diameter? I'd greatly appreciate some help with this matter, I'd like to better be able to predict how my metal will move. Thanks, RidgewayForge
  8. Ridgewayforge
    My goal is to forge for the enjoyment of it, and to pray hard that I can contiune the craft! Went out to buy steel today and was SHOCKED at the prices!
  9. Ridgewayforge
    When you're searching IFI, go to Google and search your query, followed by Site:Iforgeiron.com There ya go. Now try it. We have already written the tutorials. Unfortunately, they're spread out over several hundred pages of information. Perhaps, nutinauniversalshell, you'd be willing to gather it all up and boil it down a little bit and then post it for future newbie blacksmiths, so that they'll get what you're asking for. ~Rf
  10. Ridgewayforge
    All of those rail fasteners, except spikes, are medium carbon, from 40-60 points carbon, so I believe.
  11. Ridgewayforge
    Wow! Quite the haul! I guess you were a good boy this year and didn't get any coal?
  12. Ridgewayforge
    Having not yet made any tongs in my life, I am going to start off with 1/2 round mild stock. Thanks for all the help and input!
  13. Ridgewayforge
    That lighter stuff is the coke. Clinker feels like metal or glass, and clinks if you drop it on the anvil. Try wadded up newspaper, some sticks, pine shavings and small pieces of charcoal. Light that and get a good bed of coals. Then add a double handful of coke. Then add some green coal once the coke is going, periodically upping the blast from the fan. Not too much, now, get the fire going slowly.
  14. Ridgewayforge
    That sounds like a great score! Got any pictures? We love pictures! Also, Welcome to IFI! Sounds like you are getting off on the right foot!
  15. Ridgewayforge
    Looks good, that is what I did, pretty much, except that my hardy shank is 3/4" almost on the nose. It was quite the workout, I'd say.
  16. Ridgewayforge
    Where would I obtain Sucker rod from? Around Maryland I do not know of too many petroleum wells. Also, what would you all think "too long reins" are on tongs made from 1/2" stock? I will keep in mind to make them slightly rectangular along the vertical axis. I plan to make them like this video does, only with drawn out reins instead of welded. I need the practice drawing out long pieces, anyways. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAkpqmp4uz0
  17. Ridgewayforge
    Looks good, Glenn, might be a good thing to pin to the top. Really clear and concise, in my 3-5 minutes reading it I learned several important things!
  18. Ridgewayforge
    Hello all, Permit me to pick your collective brains on something. I want to make tongs. Simple, flat bit tongs, to hold 1/4" stock. What would be a good starting size of stock for a project like this? I know 1 1/2" X 1/4" flat is a good size, but can I make it out of 1/2" square or some other size? Thank you, Ridgeway Forge
  19. Ridgewayforge
    Looks good, keep up the good work!
  20. Ridgewayforge
    Looks like you've already got some great technique! I look forward to seeing moere of your beautiful work!
  21. Ridgewayforge
    That's the extra-large version of the 400s. Nice paint job! You could probably sell that thing for enough to buy another blower and an anvil!
  22. Ridgewayforge
    Note: There is a difference between Cast Iron and Cast Steel. Cast steel is mostly a-ok, but Cast Iron is junk. vulcans are cast iron with a top plate cast into them; these are lower end, not the prime, but better than a CI ASO from Harbor Freight.
  23. Ridgewayforge
    Edge of the Anvil book by Jack Andrews tells of him using a 20 ft teepee as a forge. Perfectly viable option. Also viable would be a small pole barn that can rest on above ground concrete blocks. It would be lightweight, but would consist of four poles and a ceiling.
  24. Ridgewayforge
    Thank you for your input- I'll go ahead and try my hand at slitting and drifting, and thank you MOblacksmith- you answered my non-asked question about heat treating 1060. I should just normalize it several times? Any other ht I should be aware of? Thanks!
  25. Ridgewayforge
    I used my Champion 400 blower for a charcoal fire in my Champion Whirlwind Firepot-one good turn brought 5/8" steel up to a bright orange in about ten seconds. I like using charcoal, I found. You have to keep it well stocked though, and too much air will do you no good but to burn the fire quickly.
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