mudbugone

The electrodes I have are... "Arcos Alloy Corp Surfacing filler iron chromium alloy C 0.4 Cr 3.5 Mn 1 Mo 0.5 Si 0.6 bal Fe Welded 55HRC For hardfacing electrodes:martensite steel to withstand severe abrasion, heavy impact" If that information is useful.... That's ALL I've been able to find on them and I've tried to cross reference them (composition wise) to similar Stoody rods as far as application uses with little success. The correct Stoody rods would run in excess of $200 plus the extreme amount of labor... and Frosty's "Buy a new anvil" comment would make more sense. I'm trying for the best possible outcome with the available materials .... I don't NEED this anvil...I just want to fix it as best I can without breaking the bank.

" Were I to have to chose I'd take in some welding jobs, save the money and buy a new anvil." You're points about hardfacing are ALL well taken and I agree with the above comment... while spilling coffee in laughter ! After months of research I have to conclude there are almost as many methods of repair as there are needed repairs..... mostly a crapshoot at success by using the best info and materials available.... Anything short of an 18th-19th century repair will have it's shortfalls. I have some 10018 bridge welding rods that I thought about using to re-attach a "new" heel to the forged iron body of this badly damaged Mouse Hole anvil... Your thoughts about such a "fix" would be appreciated.... Although it's been broken in excess of 60 years I'd still like to restore it if possible.

Don't want to dispute your thoughts on hardfacing rods,but the specification sheets on several types of hardfacing rods specifically state they are heavy impact resistant... just an example --http://www.eurekaelectrodes.com/hardfacing-electrodes.html The hardfacing by it's nature will be more prone to chipping than an original face made up of a solid piece,but other than totally re-facing the anvil in a forge the options are fairly limited. (hitting a repaired anvil face a glancing blow would probably cause a chip,but if used correctly it shouldn't be an issue) A full face weldment should actually be less likely to chip than the several edge welds I've seen as repairs. Those thin lines if struck a glancing blow could indeed chip easily....a full face weldment would be more likely to come off in a large sheet if the weld failed from impact. As you can see there are a number of different specifications depending on intended application and the specific electrode used. Some are even work hardened after application...The electrodes I have are both abrasion and impact resistant with a 55rc hardness upon application. No one said it was going to be easy to grind the surface level...It will take time and work,besides if it was easy it wouldn't be worth a flip in use. I sure don't expect this to be a 2 day job.... more like 2 weeks with considerable periods of rest in between...LOL I will look into the suggestion of the belt sander,but the cup grinder will probably bring the surface down quicker(and cheaper) than a belt and then use a belt for smoother finishing...I'd rather have access to a large surface grinder or a large milling machine,but I don't..

Send it to me I'll toss something out of the shop to make room for it...LOL :D

I haven't tackled mine just yet... I'm still "contemplating" which direction to go.... My first thought was to weld a new plate onto the body,but that seems to NOT be such a good path...SO I gave that idea up quick. Most acceptable methods are very labor intensive and just flat expensive,but I hope to hit a happy medium and have an acceptable finished product without breaking the bank and going overboard. I can live with the excessive time involved since mine is a labor of love and not an attempt to make money on the finished product. I should mention that several people suggested pre-heating the anvil before welding on it and at least one fellow that had done a considerable amount of hardfacing suggested putting the rods in an oven before using them for better results... BOTH ideas seemed prudent suggestions since the end results probably need all the help they can get for the best possible outcome. I started looking for methods for fixing an anvil on the various welding sites I'm on and it became clear very quickly there is a great deal more involved in this project than just laying some weld beads on the face. One thing lead to another and I found myself learning more & more and visiting more & more metalworking/blacksmithing sites ....BINGO... Another long put off interest re-awakened and now I'm learning far more than I originally bargained for... Which is a good thing...

Actually they don't handle the lateral pressure exerted when trying to mill with them well at all.... It causes excessive spindle wear. The vertical movement encountered with a drill press is different than the side-to-side movement in a mill. That's not to say they can't be used in a limited capacity for light milling...just that they aren't configured to do so.

Being in a similar position...I've gradually picked up the rods and lots of suggestions and information from many sources on how to accomplish this task... I'm sure not all of it was/is usable. Don't know your exact plans,but I'm using hardfacing electrodes to build-up the surface and I bought 5 carborundum cups to grind down what I anticipate being a very tough weld build-up. If it takes more than two of them I'd be surprised,but it was a fiver sale...LOL (might consider selling a couple if you can't find any cheap) From other sites... mostly welding forums I'm on... by using a large cup with a large grinder and maintaining the cup level so sparks are coming off both sides it should be easier to maintain a flat grind (but it takes a steady hand & close attention). It's more difficult to cut the surface down level with a disc than one of these cups & they are supposed to be pretty aggressive. I haven't used one yet. You can finish with a flap disc but for the inital cut-down the carborundum cups might do a better job for leveling the rough stuff....especially hardfacing which is very hard. The rods I have are HRC55 with severe impact resistance and abrasion resistant... Sounded about right for an anvil. I still have some more research to do before trying to do this...My old Mouse Hole still has most of the original face intact although the heel is broken off . Having the original face does make it a bit simpler since the body is forged and IF exposed would require additional rod types to act as a buttering layer between the hardfacing rod and the forged body. I gave considerable thought about welding on the face,but I've seen others that have been welded and the finished product was superior to the rough almost unusable crowned face that's on my anvil. Mine still rings and a hammer bounces easily on it,but considering the un-even nature of the face it would be an exercise in workmanship to find a sweet spot. If it hadn't belonged to my Grandfather I doubt I'd bother with the work or expense to attempt fixing this baby.He gave me the anvil when I was 4-5 and I've spent a bunch already on stuff to fix it (very cheap deals) and haven't done anything except clean it and grind off the mushroomed edges. It looks a lot better,but still far from an acceptable tool. I have no idea who or why it was damaged like it is ...it's always been this way as long as I can remember...so it was damaged prior to 1949... I discussed anvil repair with a fellow in Tenn. ? that has repaired several using plain 7018 rods,but since I already have the hardfacing rods ...why the devil not use them...has to be a superior face repair. Most sites suggest using 2 types of Stoody rods to fix an anvil,but at $200+ just for the rods... I'd just go buy an anvil. Any questions? I'll be glad to share what little I've learned and what little I know on the subject...

Figures you'd be the other side of Dallas...OR.. we'd be doing some trading for that drill.... Please DON'T scrap it they are nifty looking machines.... I'd keep it in my shop to look at even if it didn't work....LOL....but then I like strange things...

That's an old "Camelback" drill and a xxxx fine one too! You scored something I've wanted for a while...they are more a work of art than a tool although they make fine drill presses.. Great score and you owe someone big time...LOL..Enjoy your new toy..

I read the square buildup and then found the round buildup here... BOTH are Super I noticed the glowing interior of the burner tubes too and thought that was from internal combustion... Looking at the plumbing lines for the gas injection and the blower air flow wouldn't you get a better airflow (less turbulance) if you swapped the gas injection to where the airflow is connected and the blower where the gas inlet is now mounted and then have a straight flow pattern for the blower. It might increase your pressure..as it's connected the air flow must hit a junction and then switch direction to the left which must cause a great deal of turbulance inside the fuel line and has to cause back pressure(at least lower pressure)issues. That simple adjustment might help eliminate the internal combustion at the burner head. After typing all that I took your lead and checked Tom's website on burners and that's exactly how the airflow lines are connected to their systems with the gas injected into the straight line airflow by a special fuel feed tube mounted in the blower air flow..

Very interesting burner.... You mentioned a round burner instead of a square ...any more thoughts on that ? Since you seemed to have such an issue with the wooden dowels... How about SS tubes and leave them embedded in the casting ? Is there excessive heat where the flames exit the cast burner tip ? Would skewing the tubes into a spiral direction create a swirling flame (if using a round tube) or is it preferable to have the flame feed straight into the forge chamber ? I'm only asking questions that popped into my mind as I read the buildup on this burner. I'm assuming this type burner would be more suitable for a larger size forge. Please continue to update this thread... I've not seen this type burner discussed before and it appears the conversation on it has stopped. EDIT--- I found the thread on the round burner and will read thru it too...

Great pics and very nice hammer.... Thanks for taking the time to share with the rest of us. I'm sure it was tortuous to have set there watching that happen...LOL ..

I stumbled across the following information while searching for something and if it's not appropriate to list it...Please feel free to remove it from the topics. It might provide information to anyone that owns one of the various hammers mentioned and provide help repairing one. It's located at the New England Blacksmiths forum and although I've been researching various power hammers for months I found this searching for forge information not info on power hammers. http://www.newenglandblacksmiths.org/power_hammer_info.htm

$350 plus $70 S&H When brand new that anvil was about .08-.10 cents a pound...a large sum back then to be sure,but nothing like $4-6 a pound today.

James have you been using this forge yet ? I have an old ceramic electric kiln that's made out of firebricks with a metal exterior that's about the same size and shape as yours... I'm thinking of lining it after cutting firebrick corners to make it more cylindrical inside and cutting a door in the side instead of top loading it. I was thinking the curved corners would make the flames circulate inside rather than hitting directly into the rear wall. I don't know that that matters..It just seemed it would distribute the heat more uniformly inside the forge. Being as old as it is and made from the old soft firebricks I'm fairly positive I'll need to use some sort of liner to protect the interior,but at least it'll contain the heat with slight modifications and since it's been setting in the back of the shop for 16-18 years it's about time I re-purposed it into something usable... Any suggestions about lining material or lining procedure much appreciated..

Harbor Freight sells one with a magnetic base for about $10 that holds the torch head (if you use it--don't ask) http://www.harborfreight.com/magnetic-mig-torch-rest-3642.html You could copy it or a better homebuilt is a short tube that you insert the torch head into.... your choice of mounts. The factory one takes into account the hot wire since the Harbor Freight machines are that way too. I tend to just lay the torch down instead of using either which is really dumb...

Vaughn beat me to the send that scrap to me comment (just about right for a tire power hammer anvil) LOL... It should serve you well. As far as the re-bar stobs...walking straight into them wouldn't be my worry "walking BY" them could be dangerous... get a couple of short pieces of 4x4 or double 2x4's and drill holes slightly smaller than the re-bar size and drive them onto those stobs to protect your shins. Use 4x4's and drill holes in them for hammer racks

How odd is this or should I say how timely ...I was on youtube last night looking at this and wondering what it might cost and if it could be homebuilt....The ebay listing answered the cost question. I saved one of the youtube videos and here it is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myL8QA2KlAI I was looking at this from the standpoint of heat treating applications,but at $4000 it's doubtful I'll purchase one for the limited use I might need it for. The specs say the circulating water temp needs to be 45* or less.... an inexpensive cooler might be an old coke dispenser that has chiller plates with a built in pump. I have one that was slated for use as a Tig welder cooler...I figured if plain water was good then chilled would be even better (besides I had it) but for one of these induction heaters it sounds like a chiller would be manditory. Interesting subject...Thanks for bringing it up..

PJ... You do know there are coal mines down in Mansfield just south of Shreveport ? http://www.sourcewatch.org/index.php?title=Louisiana_and_coal It's lignite coal and I haven't taken a trip that direction lately or I'd have checked it out. It may be poor grade coal (maybe),but probably cheap to purchase. A heater store might have better coal and I haven't checked around Shreveport for that source either yet. The closest Blacksmith group might be the Texarkana group...unless there is one in Shreveport.

I found one very similar for sale last year at auction...but no indication of age.. Found this http://www.anvilfire.com/anvils/ferd_anvil_003.php ,but dating a chunk of iron might require more knowledge than most of us have access to.. I'd be tickled to death with owning it and just the knowledge it's older than anyone on here would be enough for me (but I'd still search for the approximate age...LOL)

There is always an interest in Railroad Rail composition,sizes,weights.... Quite by accident I stumbled across this http://www.icrr.net/rails.htm If any moderators see this and there is a more appropriate location for these charts feel free to move or add this link to a place others here can access for informational purposes... I thought it was pretty good info and worth sharing Dave

That is pretty slick....I've never seen one like it.

LOL...I think you're right... I was stumped as to why anyone would insert a sq. rod into that hole....but I had to ask....Too Funny !

Now Titanium is VERY expensive but this old fart tosses it in the scrap bin with with regular scrap and sends it off in a dumpster....We've tried numerous times to explain it's worth ,but it's like talking to a stump. Some of the pieces are 2" in diameter and several FEET long ,but he will not listen. The plant gives it to him to haul it off so it's ALL scrap... Proves you can't fix stupid or DUMB. He's a likable old cuss just hardheaded. I find it hard to deal with him and I've known him 35 years,but my Uncle sucks up (no other way to put it) to him for "stuff" and gets hooked into helping him do things... I try to buy stuff and he always wants to work it out instead...which I'm not willing to do,but I might have to "suck up" to score some pieces of tubing. These tapered pieces are the end pieces that are fed into the tubing extruders. They start with a solid piece and then form it into smaller & smaller tubes which are mostly used for airplanes and aerospace applications. He had a large pile of very long 2" tubes that were rejected and sold them to some Mexicans for a couple hundred bucks..... I think scrap prices on it are around $10-12 a pound... He gave the entire pile to my Uncle several weeks earlier and he failed to go get it...Needless to say my Uncle was ticked off big time...LOL...You Snooze you Loose. He probably has 10-15 acres of an old junkyard around his house and I never fail to find something interesting when I look around it...

Nice tool... and BOY that looks like an oldie...It's no wonder it's got battle scars... I'm with John on finishing it up and deal with any issues after using it... It might not be an issue at all. Enjoy the present and buy the giver a steak or a nice bottle of something..