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Author's Note: This thread details a large project as it develops. If you wish to do the same project, I would highly encourage you to read the entire thread first. If you don't, you might find yourself missing lessons learned. So it is time for me to go from pipe oriented blown burners to ribbon burners. I have heard so many good things about their efficiency and heat output that I thought it was time to make the new leap since I am building a new forge anyway (the old one has been too badly damaged by borax). So I will post the build in this thread. I will continue to edit the first post if possible to add more information and then reply to the thread to let people know there is new stuff. If that isn't possible the replays will contain the new content. The burner is based on a bunch of research into the ribbon burners topic. It will be a 4"x5" burner made from mild steel tubing and Kastolye 30 refractory with stainless steel reinforcing needles at a 5% weight ratio. The burner will be coated on the hot face with ITC-100 to reduce heat absorption and hopefully prolong the life. The burner will power a forge that is roughly 9" x 7" x 10" in volume at current plan. The burner will be installed in a hole in the Katolte 30 hot face of the new forge and slipped through the Superwool insulating layers and mounted on the metal shell. To to start, I take 10" of mild steel, 1/8" wall tubing and mark it up for cutting in half. I also mark out the square i will remove for the burner hot face. This steel tube will form the plenum which will be pressurized by the gas/air mix. After cutting the tube in half, I put it in a vice to start cutting out the center. I want to leave an L edge inside the tube so that the seal with the castable refractory will be better. I will eventually add insurance with a bead of high temperature furnace sealant just for good measure. A 4" grinder with a cutting wheel makes short work of the center. Notice that i overshot a bit with the cutting wheel. I will weld this gas tight later. You can see the inside shape of the tube here. Note the landing L shaped area. Now its time to cut the remaining 5" of tube along the corners so I get 4 walls. On two of these walls I will reduce the tube to 4" in length to make the caps for the ends. I will grind these flat so they cap fairly well. It need not be perfect as the weld can fill in a bit but you don't want it too far off or you will have some creative welding to do. Now I put the whole thing on the drill press and center punch the exact center. Then I set up a bimetal hole cutter and clamp it down. Clamp it really tight as the vibration is fierce. Use cutting oil and remember if something goes flying don't try to catch it, just get the heck out of the way and cut the power to the press. A drill press has way too much torque to stop something by hand. Now I take the remaining two separated walls and grind them so they will fit in the tube. These will form baffles that will cause turbulence in the gas/air mix and help it completely mix throughly. These baffles don't need to fit perfectly as they are not needed to be air tight when welded. So don't spend a lot of time cleaning them up with a grinder. Now that the baffles fit I have drilled out the baffles to make a large number of holes. The gas air feed tube will be a 2" diameter pipe nipple and the holes drilled in the plates should have as many holes as possible to prevent constricting airflow. I might actually drill some more holes before I weld them in. The holes should not be aligned with each other as you want things to swirl around turbulently. The plate with the holes on the side will be closest to the feed pipe and the plate with the holes in the middle will be furthest away. The only other piece for the plenum, which is not shown, are some angle brackets for mounting to the shell and the 2" black iron nipple that will be the feed pipe. Next time we will weld this together and check it carefully for gas tight welds. All comments are welcome.