marcusb

Glad to see the hammer moved. Could you describe the half stroking ? Did you weigh the anvil?

Sounds like a call to the yard is in order, a few minutes with a tape measure would solve the mystery.

Great work LAF!

Tire hammer rams are filled with lead. If you can spring for it solid is preferable.

Pipe in a pipe/Tube in a tube. Usually with UHMW in between with some kinds bolts to adjust the fit between the whole affair.

Find a class and take it

This is for ERIE but should get you close to size estimation for that hammer.

Dies on a 1500 pound ERIE, shoe is a size 14

Looks newer than 1894

I cost me far more to move my big hammer than it did to purchase it And these hammers require a large hole with some fairly complex form work. Did it have a size marked on it? Anything over 200 pounds requires some serious CFM.

How are the screw threads? Looks columbianish to me

Those beasts have an appetite.

I will be there, still deciding if I want to suffer thru camping again.....

Plywood would be best, and as JHCC said glued and screwed.

Thanks Steve. I sure hope it stays put, there's about 400 pounds in that block of concrete.

I would at minimum box the frame in, that would strengthen the structure. Hammering is rough business.

Had my vise bolted to the wall of the shop, and of course I broke that loose. Gathered up some drops/jacks/tractor parts I had laying around the shop and made up a quick and dirty stand. Shop floor is dirt so i cast it into a block for stability. Did a "tap root" in the bottom of the hole about 36" deep to help resist any twisting forces. So far so good, very solid. Only cost me about $20 in concrete.

Its a spare lower die for my big hammer, its designed to put a single sided taper on spud bars. Weighs about 300 pounds. The plate under its 1" thick, not any flex that I can detect, when you forge on it feels pretty solid.

Took a short video of my hammer after I have done some work on it. When I set it up it would only do no blows or full blows. After lots of fiddling with I'm pretty happy with the control now. I was working on a kukri style chopper I forged down from a brush cuter blade. Using a flatter I made to adjust the profile a bit.

My anvil

1/2 yard of concrete, 8" deep. My hammer required a 4x6 pad, I would think a rusty would be less.

Pour an inertia block. I have my hammer bolted down on a dirt floor shop. I left the form boards on it to protect the edges. It will also help with an under weight anvil.

I would use that steel in the hammer frame and not a large base. The hammer will need to be bolted down anyways. I know little giants have hollow anvils, my 50 pound did, and i have heard other brands do to. Obviously a solid anvil is best but LG's have moved lots of metal with hollow ones.

I've had a couple 500 pound ish anvils, there hardies were 1.5"