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marcusb

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Everything posted by marcusb

  1. marcusb
    Sounds like a call to the yard is in order, a few minutes with a tape measure would solve the mystery.
  2. marcusb
    Great work LAF!
  3. marcusb
    Tire hammer rams are filled with lead. If you can spring for it solid is preferable.
  4. marcusb
    Pipe in a pipe/Tube in a tube. Usually with UHMW in between with some kinds bolts to adjust the fit between the whole affair.
  5. marcusb
    Find a class and take it
  6. marcusb
    This is for ERIE but should get you close to size estimation for that hammer.
  7. marcusb
    Dies on a 1500 pound ERIE, shoe is a size 14
  8. marcusb
    Looks newer than 1894
  9. marcusb
    I cost me far more to move my big hammer than it did to purchase it And these hammers require a large hole with some fairly complex form work. Did it have a size marked on it? Anything over 200 pounds requires some serious CFM.
  10. marcusb
    How are the screw threads? Looks columbianish to me
  11. marcusb
    Those beasts have an appetite.
  12. marcusb
    I will be there, still deciding if I want to suffer thru camping again.....
  13. marcusb
    Plywood would be best, and as JHCC said glued and screwed.
  14. marcusb

    New vise stand

    marcusb replied to marcusb's topic in Vises

    Thanks Steve. I sure hope it stays put, there's about 400 pounds in that block of concrete.
  15. marcusb
    I would at minimum box the frame in, that would strengthen the structure. Hammering is rough business.
  16. marcusb

    New vise stand

    marcusb posted a topic in Vises

    Had my vise bolted to the wall of the shop, and of course I broke that loose. Gathered up some drops/jacks/tractor parts I had laying around the shop and made up a quick and dirty stand. Shop floor is dirt so i cast it into a block for stability. Did a "tap root" in the bottom of the hole about 36" deep to help resist any twisting forces. So far so good, very solid. Only cost me about $20 in concrete.
  17. marcusb
    Its a spare lower die for my big hammer, its designed to put a single sided taper on spud bars. Weighs about 300 pounds. The plate under its 1" thick, not any flex that I can detect, when you forge on it feels pretty solid.
  18. marcusb
    Took a short video of my hammer after I have done some work on it. When I set it up it would only do no blows or full blows. After lots of fiddling with I'm pretty happy with the control now. I was working on a kukri style chopper I forged down from a brush cuter blade. Using a flatter I made to adjust the profile a bit.
  19. marcusb
    My anvil
  20. marcusb
    1/2 yard of concrete, 8" deep. My hammer required a 4x6 pad, I would think a rusty would be less.
  21. marcusb
    Pour an inertia block. I have my hammer bolted down on a dirt floor shop. I left the form boards on it to protect the edges. It will also help with an under weight anvil.
  22. marcusb
    I would use that steel in the hammer frame and not a large base. The hammer will need to be bolted down anyways. I know little giants have hollow anvils, my 50 pound did, and i have heard other brands do to. Obviously a solid anvil is best but LG's have moved lots of metal with hollow ones.
  23. marcusb
    I've had a couple 500 pound ish anvils, there hardies were 1.5"
  24. marcusb
    Nice thumper. How deep is the inertia block?
  25. marcusb
    I used to live over near Fremont. Have you checked with NOB yet? One of those guys may be looking to sell or have a lead for you.
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