John R

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About John R

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/02/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Port Angeles, WA
  • Interests
    Gun building, blacksmithing.
  1. Your pet peeve is big peeve to me. I do not sell at shows or craft fairs, but go to buy, usually with a few thousand bucks in my jeans. I cannot stand seeing items on a table with no pricing!!!! If a guy wants to sell something, a price tag should be on it. I will not hunt up a person to ask how much. Many times I have passed on buying something I wanted just because of no price tag. If a guy does not have pricing on his items, he is telling me he does not want to sell anything and is just showing off his wares.
  2. Good knife steel?

    Yep, my biggest peeve on forums. Tell us where you are located! You can buy 5160 and 1095 on ebay.
  3. Good knife steel?

    Search the Forums, or: Buy Steve Sells Book, it is mentioned in a thread above this one. I have a copy, it is a good reference. And this one: The Complete Bladesmith: Forging Your Way To Perfection by Jim Hrisoulas All your questions will be answered by reading both. I use 1095, 5160, and L6.
  4. Heating quench tanks

    Shanghaied from a rival forum:
  5. Mine goes up to 650 degrees F, thermostat controlled. I have thought about using it for drawing knife blades. Mine holds up to 400 pounds, a little much for my hobby weld shop, but the price was right. 50 pound ovens are available for much less. I need to bump the thermostat up a bit, ideal temp for 7018 is 250 degrees. The rod manufacturers have guidelines for proper temps for 7018 and other rods. On craigs list here for $80. If they were not in Surry B.C. Canada I would have bought them yesterday. Complete with rods.
  6. I like 7018. Burned a lot of it way back when I worked in the Maintenance Dept. of a large paper mill. Most rods do not need to be in an oven (6011, 6013 for example) but for the best welds the low hydrogen rods like to be dry. Keep your eyes open if you want a rod oven, they appear often on the local ads. Took me over a year to find this one after I started looking.
  7. Phoenix Rod Oven. New cost anywhere from $1200 to $1800 depending on where you buy one. I have been wanting one for a long time to store my 7018 Low Hydrogen rods. I live on the Olympic Peninsula of Washington State, out in the foothills, and the atmosphere is always high humidity due to the Maritime Climate. Moisture and Low Hydrogen rods do not get along well. Got this one for $250 near Seattle. In new condition. Gent that had it was getting out of welding. I added the thermometer on the front door. The thermostat is on the rear.
  8. A nice piece of American Industrial History. Around 400 pounds of copper and iron laminations. Found it in our local classifieds in the newspaper: The ad said "SureWeld welder $20." I thought it was one of the little yellow SureWeld buzz boxes and headed off to buy it for my nephew, whom is learning welding. I already had a DC machine, a big AC machine, and a TIG unit. So I got there and saw this beast: Could not get it into the truck. Back to my shop for the ramp and two helpers. We barely got it up the ramp and in the bed of the truck. Darn thing works too, welds nicely for an AC machine. I m guessing it was made between WWI and WWII. When I lifted the top cover to blow out the rats nests I noticed three huge capacitors. Must be for arc stabilization during the AC swing. Next project is to remove the covers, a little body & fender work, sandblast and paint a proper welding machine color: Red. And polish up the brass name plates. And a new amperage indicator. Marketed by national Cylinder Gas, sadly no longer in business. Some of the gents on another welding forum say it was made by Miller. Oh, that stainless steel 5 gallon beer keg in one of the photos? Future vertical quench tank for blades.
  9. Yep, mad money. I always have a good stash of green available for those good deals! Strike before anyone else gets to the hot iron. Later I will make a post about the ancient AC Arc welder I found three weeks ago for $20: 400 pounds of copper and iron, and it works. I got to his front door before the ink was dry in the classifieds. Three of us barely got it into the back of my truck, it is heavy. Already have a DC welder, a TIG welder, and another AC unit, but this one was a beautiful piece of American made history. I could not resist.
  10. Nothing wrong with either one. Although I have 4, if they were within a few hours driving for me I would dig up a coffee can and hot foot over and buy both. This is what the mad money is for!
  11. Another view of the Soderfors: What I used to do: Nothing fancy or artsy, just good 'ol working and hunting knives. The four in the upper left are patterns. I am anxious to return to forging blades!
  12. Here ya go, photos of mine. It has been stored in a shed since about 1991, the last time I operated my forge and made knives. I would say over 100 knives have been across this thing. For knife making I like it more than a regular London pattern anvil. It has incredible rebound, it is either cast or forged steel. It is not a die, it is the bottom anvil. It mounted in the base of the steam hammer and was held in place with tapered wedges. Removable so special die shaped bottoms could be inserted in the Steam hammer. The shop had a lot of special dies that actually clamped on the top of the anvil, so the job of changing out the anvil for big 200 pound plus dies was avoided. I actually ran the big steam hammer back in the 1990's, it was a brute. I would love to have something like it but it just was too big and too expensive for a hobbist to run on steam or compressed air. There was another one in the plant converted to compressed air. Likely consumed 100 HP of air when it was running, it was fed with a 3 inch air pipe at 180 PSI. I could forge out a big knife blank in a matter of minutes. Note the two lifting rods I inserted in the holes, just for the photos: It is mounted on a length of 12x18 creosoted timber. This one has dovetails on both sides, note the 2X wood stock that is holding it down: The 2X stock is tapered to match the taper of the anvil dovetails. When I complete the new forging shed I will clean it up and mount it close to the forge, along with my three other anvils: 100 pound Vulcan 150 pound American Star, this one has been in my family since before the Civil War. The family was poor dirt farmers in SE Georgia. It was originally used to keep the horses shod and maintain farm implements. And the prize, my 196 pound Soderfors:
  13. I have a similar one that weighs 200 pounds. It is the bottom anvil for a steam or air hammer. Mine was a spare for a large hammer that was still in operation in a paper mill. The two holes in the ends? For sticking a piece of round bar about 2 feet into. Then the smith and his apprentice could lift the bottom anvil out of the drop hammer via using the rods as handles. One man on each handle. The slot on the bottom front was likely used for a key that indexed the anvil to the machine frame and kept it in place, the angled cut on the bottom back was for driving in a tapered wedge to hold the anvil tight.
  14. Steel tool

    Nice thread. I have a DC motor on one of my drill presses. Nice for those difficult drilling jobs. I can read the writing on the chuck when I have the speed controller dialed down to slowest. Dwell: A best quality drill bit may be easily ruined if allowed to dwell at no or minimum feed, especially if no coolant is used. Then, all one will accomplish is a bunch of noise and a dull bit. Spindle RPM is very important. Match the speed to the material being drilled, the size of the drill bit, and the material of the drill bit. The more difficult drilling jobs go to my vertical mill. Speeds from zero to 3500 RPM. Also has a DC drive, in conjunction with the 8 speed belt/gear head. And a pumped coolant system. Adequate feed is important, especially when drilling tough materials that like to work harden. Back to the OP: Machinery's handbook has several paragraphs concerning heat treating and forging HSS. Not an easy job in the average blacksmithing shop. Like Patton said, "read the book".
  15. Steel tool

    High Speed Tool Steel. HSS for sort. High speed means for use at higher cutting speeds in the lathe. Usually M2 or something similar. I have a lot of it, some up to 1/2 x 3/4 square by about 6 inches long. Not a good steel for blacksmith forging. One of the older posts asked about the usefulness of Machinery's Handbook ("The Bible"). Take a look, it should have the properties of HSS. When I get back to the shop I will take a look at some of my reference books.