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jeks

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  1. OK, I was able to get it out. After staring at it for an inordinate amount of time, I came to the conclusion that it couldn't be a press fit in the top of the slide, as access to get it out would have been too tough, making it a terrible design. I don't have one of the wrenches with two downward facing cylinders mounted on a round plane, but just to check if maybe it was threaded in, I hit one of the holes sideways with a small screwdriver in the hole at an angle, and sure enough, the two pieces rotated. So, it is a two part, threaded collar which holds the screw to the slide. The screw has an area almost at the end with a smaller ID. The collar clamps around this smaller ID holding it captive. I have added a photo of the bottom end of the screw and the two collar pieces which go around it and thread into the slide. The larger OD on the screw is captured in a sort of floating coupling between the smaller ID of the collar and the bottom of the hole, allowing it to move up or down. As for the rehab, I want to paint it and also re-oil it properly Frosty. I've read that they were designed for oil, not grease, like it was covered in. I am now able to throw the screw into the parts washer, clean everything off, etc. Thank you.
  2. I purchased a #2 fly press but am unable to remove the slide from the screw to fully disassemble the unit for rehab. The front of the slide has 2 holes, from which I removed the screws. The bottom one is empty but the top one seems to have something in it, under where the set screw made contact. I'm not sure if this is something I should drill out or not as one possible way to free things up. The slide has a split collar on the top face, but I can't figure out how to remove it base on where it is located. I have tried using the main screw to leverage it out by placing pieces of steel between the top housing and the slide body in order to draw the split collar out, but it will not budge. This collar is shown in the second picture right below the end of the lead screw threads, sunk in near flush with the slide housing. Any ideas? Thank you, John
  3. Thomas, thanks for the generous offer, but I'll find something local I'm sure. I have it in mind to visit my local scrap yard this weekend. Take care - J
  4. Lazy, that is exactly what I was thinking. However, the face is 6 1/4" wide and I'm having trouble sourcing plate at least that wide and 3" thick in almost any steel. Did you use 4140 because you had it, or because you wanted a steel wth it's strength, hardening ability, etc?... Also, what rod did you use to hard face it? thanks - John
  5. Thomas, thank you. I was given a dozer plate as well, so know exactly what you mean. I'm going to use a piece of it for a removable / portable hardy as was suggested.
  6. OK, thank you for all the recommendations folks. Seeing as I have another smaller anvil (140 lb. I Hill) with Hardy and Pritchell, I'm going to hold off on the repair and use this a bit. Of course, when I have my first block of free time, it is wirewheel and beeswax/linseed oil bath for this Hay Budden.
  7. Interesting, Marcus. I think you're right. Am I maybe reading the serial number wrong? Does the A change the designation? thanks
  8. I recently picked up this 410 lb. Hay Budden anvil which was sitting on a post as an address marker. Paid $800, so $2/lb, which isn't bad in New England these days. It is serial number A15361 which puts it at 1894 vintage. The face is in great shape, however, the heel is broken off at the 1 3/8" Hardy hole. If there was a Pritchel hole, it is gone. The face should be between 23 and 24 inches long according to AIA. Mine is 18" at the longest dimension where it broke off. The inside face of the Hardy is at 16". I can use the anvil as-is, but would eventually like to repair it. I have read the article from Gunther and Schuler, but this is probably more applicable to small fixes. I am thinking I can cut the heel off flush with the inside face of the Hardy hole, and weld a new piece of steel, machined ahead of time, back in place. I would use heavily chamfered edges and many passes to fill the weld area and might make it shallow on the face so I can build up tool steel in that area with weld rod. I can weld, but would probably give this to the pros to have it done properly. I expect the steel, which I can machine and the welding would add $400-500 to the total cost, putting me around $3/lb total cost for a nice heavy anvil. I'm looking for thoughts and suggestions. Thanks, J
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