Brian Evans

It turned out that I didn't have any problems with clinkers was because they were collecting along the sides of the fire pot in a somewhat solid form. My best guess as to why I didn't notice was because of the soil I used as fill for the forge. It has a high organic composition and was burning away at a slow rate being replaced with clinkers. I recently had to take it all apart because the fire pot got too small and that is when I discovered what happened. I apologise for any misguided attempts at making a clinkerless fire.

Not completely, I use small pieces of coke and anthracite to refill the fire pot. However the fire cave lining still burns just not as quickly. I will take pictures of it before I fire it up to help explain it better. I know I'm not doing the best job of it. I typically use rice coal anthricite and bits of coke leftover from previous fires when I put it in the fire pit. This is what my forge looks like.

I use an asymmetrical mix. I use bitluminus to build the cave (as it cokes up), then I use leftover Coke and anthracite to refill the fire pot as needed.

I was curious to see if any else used a combination of anthracite and bitluminus coal. I like how I can control the fire when using both kinds (build a fire cave and keep the fire pot stoked). I have noticed that since using both kinds I have had no problem with clinkers and ash I'm not sure what happens to them but they don't build up in the forge. Maybe I'm doing something "wrong"

Yeah, safety should be the number I priority. I think I'll have to wait and save my money to either buy a welder and take some classes or buy a commercially made press. Thanks guys, I hope I didn't sound like too much of a fool for posting this design.

4 inch diameter (ish) of high carbon steel is what I have currently. I am not sure about the speed of the pneumatic jack but I would assume it would have to do with the air compressor psi which is 150. Are you trying to say that wood is useless in this application? I am not sure about exact number for the failure mode of wood but it has to do with the number of knots in the wood. I was planning on making sure that I didn't use wood that was too knotty. I have been considering buying a press new (as I cannot find any within driving distance used), but I don't really have 400$ to drop at the moment. If you don't think that making it out of wood is a good or safe idea then I guess ill have to sell a lot more hooks and bottle openers.

I wanted to be able to upset some of the larger pieces of metal that I have into a more workable billet. Also would like to try my hand at pattern welding. I would be using a pneumatic bottle jack so it should be quick and hands free as far as controlling the press (foot pedal). As far as making it with wood it is what I have available at the moment. I don't have any beams or frames.

First off I am prepared to get a lot of negative feedback on this design as it is to be made out of wood mostly. Safety is the number 1 concern and I don't want to jump into anything I am not prepared for. I am planning on using a 10 ton pneumatic bottle jack as the power. From my research to the tensile strength of 4x4 pine ( I was not able to find much) told me that a 6 ft long piece has a constant load bearing of just under 1000 lbs when hung from the middle. This design is estimated to be 3 foot wide by 5 ft tall, and there is supposed to be an even distribution of pressure along the beams. Any input is appreciated.

I have not, I haven't attempted to color things yet aside from quenching in linseed oil. This is what the guy asked for and he is happy with them. I have no experience pricing things where should I go to figure that out. (for future items, I already have a set price on these)

They are done.

I'm not sure what ILL is but they didn't have it, I checked the whole system for the state and there wasn't any.

After looking at videos and posts I think I am going to use a slitter and make the hole that way.

I have, but like you said the price is too high. I just realized that I hadn't thought to check the library. I think I will do that today.

Maybe who made it. But with no serial number I wouldn't expect it to be possible. When were Trenton's first started to be made? Any information is nice, anvils are pieces of history.

I was at a friends forge and he had a cast iron mandrel and it was hollow inside. The wood might fit inside a similar type mandrel. Im not sure I don't know much about mandrels.