marcusb

Glad to see it landed safe.

Since everything else has been tossed in the mix, here is a method for big hammers, peel back the roof and drop it in with a crane Problems solved....

Can it be partially disassembled? If I recall correctly that was one of the selling points of those hammers. If that's true with the 150 you could take it down to manageable parts, and assemble inside the shop. Or better yet what Jim said ^.

Nimba is another good anvil and made in the USA

Its a 1500 pound Erie. The compressor required would be MASSIVE. That's after you converted it to run on air. She is currently set up to run on steam. To put it in perspective the piston rod is 4" diameter. If I was a high roller it would already be in my yard holding up my mailbox! If you find anyone interested and they need any info feel free to contact me, I made the big hole next to it. I pulled a 30,000 pound self contained forging hammer out of there. Pic below is the Dies, my shoe is a size 14! si

I second pouring a block beneath it. I run a Blacker in my little shop, its a dirt floor, I framed and poured a pad to bolt it to. Works great. I suggest just leaving the form boards on to protect the edges and have fun with your new hammer.

Has it arrived ?

Thanks goodness I'm a little east of the new alley. I live a few miles from the Ohio River to be semi-exact. I do need to put up a tall shop for my new hammer. I guess a pole barn is not that far off from a long house.......

A good guide is the indigenous populations, they had 10,000 years if you believe the story to figure out what worked. For me its a Wigwam (eastern woodlands USA) . Hmmm wonder if I can get 16 foot ceilings, I guess its a long house for my new shop!

My big hammer has a 12:1 ratio and I gather that was considered pretty good in its day. Commercial hammers were intended to be put on a foundation. So a builder has a couple of options. Build with what they have, and pour a block of cheap concrete or find a substantial hunk of iron for the anvil. As they say different ways to skin the same cat. I have heard Beaudrys also had hollow anvils. Anyone have one and took a peek underneath?

I have found modern hammers to be tempered much softer than old hammers. My guess is liability concerns on quality hammers and low quality steel use to manufacture imported hammers.

Any chance of a video? With what you describe it sounds like a treadle or linkage issue, hard to push then goes all at once?

I wonder why many commercially made forging hammers had hollow anvils, yet for the home build a solid anvil is recommended.

Going to need more flow for that hammer to be of any use.

That would be no fun for sure. My hammer had the pit filled with oil. No rot at all after 60 years but submerging my arms up to the armpit in old oil to pull off the nuts was not much fun!

How much wood does the hammer require under the anvil? I'm curious how much wood is replaced by that sheet of Fabreeka.

People will be along shortly to tell you its a regional thing, what some one is willing to pay etc. If you want to hock it, throw it on E-bay. Word to the wise you will be looking at about 20% fees etc but you should get what its "worth".

Glad to see the hammer moved. Could you describe the half stroking ? Did you weigh the anvil?