Larry H

yeah , borium is costly.....get some hard face electrodes, some of them look like borium when you're done, none look like drilltek which is outstanding , way better, and more effective, longer lasting, and cost even more..... but applied with a torch, worth the cost........ for the longevity.

yeah , sorry you missed it....maybe next time

anyone else still here ?

The vikings used oak, the tannins turn the metal black (as Thomas stated with the nail scenario) I know this from my lineage and other descendants close to me...but older..(imagine that ). the blackened swords didn't reflect the moonlight when coming ashore, necessary for the element of suprise

Ciladog, rest well my friend,.... alas... we hardly knew ye

If you plan to do blacksmithing, you don't need a welding mach. I totally agree with JohnB, work on your forging skills. If you intend to do ironworking, and make money to supplement your smithing ( plows, front end loaders, dozers ect ) you should look into a welding mach.

not to shabby, nice tooling, what town in orange co. are you in ?, that is one big spring

Does anyone know how to adjust the ram height on a geka minicrop ? The clearance between the punch and die is only 1/4" right now

you don't need a clinker breaker with coke, and it needs a LOT of air, a hand cranked blower isn't recommended but if you bust it up small you can make it work

I'm jealous, 1/8" frost line, but I have the north blood......3' frost line here. Same size shop i'm building in the north. You know it seemed big, seeing the framing, but when the walls went up it looked smaller inside. Where I live 1,050 sq. ft is the max. so I'll live with it.

Check out..... You tube, look for.........forging the human face, That guy is still alive, maybe he will give you some tips

looks like a wrench

Me too, great minds think alike !

Hey Beau, welcome to the fray. Look up the NYS Designer blacksmiths, they are up in your neck of the woods. I'm down the NYS Thruway exit 17. from the north.

does anyone know how to change the punch on a Geka minicrop ?

use a flatter

Absolutely nothing, thats the point.

One point everyone is staying away from....it doesn't really matter what type of hammer.........in the hands of a Master, they all work

DanP I'm pretty sure most of the smiths who started as farriers prefer turning ( rounding ) hammers for their versatility. I've been asked if I used a die for some of my forgings that I made with a hammer and anvil only.....in a sense...... yes....the hammer, the top ....the anvil the bottom. Maybe after 30 or 40 years at the trade you will see things with a broader mind

I would start out just asking for it, if they want to get rid of it, they will gladly give it, if not then offer. I received four anvils just by asking.

I'm exasperated at this whole post, GO to a hammer-in....meet a few pros...... Maybe when you start for the day you should warm up with one or two small jobs, hooks, tapers, nails.....with a light hammer, then start with the two pounder. Don't rush out and buy a heavy hammer and have to hold it near the head because its two much for you. I've seen a Master Smith use a 1 1/2 pound hammer to create amazing things. You have to learn the proper technique to save your body from wear and tear

that is beautiful workmanship. A fine piece

You know, I never put two and two together, after the race track I became a "Bulls" farrier...Didn't have any shoer friends who weren't after that. The reason I left the track ? the new guy got stuck with the owners who didn't pay until they felt like it. The draft people always left the cash even if they weren't there. ( I also learned from a retired Cavalry man )

Well its finally taking shape, today the roof, one side today...I'm getting to old for roofing

Steve Sells.....Thank you for taking time out during your holiday to address this issue, I hope the rest of your day with your family is pleasant and joyous