Larry H

I've been using a Racal PAPR, cost $1,800, now they don't make batteries or chargers for my model, tomorrow I'm going to the welding supply to pick up a different brand, they range $1,089 to $ $1899....I'll let you know what I end up with Just left the welding supply, they have a Jackson airmax on sale for $ 500....a dozen extra filters...$231.00 three face seals , $ 52.00 Extra battery $ 131.00, throw in 4 pair 12 LC vise grips, total $ 977.00, at least it's less than I thought

look out...she might elbow you aside

thats not bad, clamp it to close the crack ( so it isn't loose on the shaft when you're done ) grind a "V" heat it up even and weld it with a 3/32 ni 99 rod it'll be good as new.....only messier

so I guess its anthracite ?....stove coal ?

I'm pretty sure Brian started a a farrier, with a store bought rounding hammer before he became a master tool maker. usually when you start out shoeing, shoes are your first forging projects, and there are many kinds of shoes to learn, oh sorry, don't get me started on blacksmiths and horse shoes....backing away from the key board now....slowly......slowly....easy now....good boy

to not distort, use a bottom swage. You could square the bottom of a round pipe to fit over a twisted 3/4 or 1", sq. bar, put a collar on the solid sq. , for a stop...four legs would be better,....on second thought use a diamond twist below the pipe, ( still use a collar as a stop ).....another idea ....use four 3/8 or 1/2" sq.( equals 3/4 or 1" ) , form legs, collar the bottom, the weight of the top will determine the spread of the legs, twist it, collar above the twist, fit your pipe over the remaining straight pcs., 8"-10" should do it , then work your magic on the top....oh yeah, I've done a lot of pipe forging, 6" radius, no sand, no collapse, take your time,...uh oh...is there a secret there somewhere ?

For the first few projects, it looks like you were born for it, although I have a feeling you have had some pointers along the way, haven't you

That is a very nice first rose, she will love it

well, you better google it, I think you are starting out in the wrong direction. Make a fire brick "cave" , drill a hole in one brick to push the torch through, and heat 1/4 " rod , make hooks, nails, mason jar candle holders, small stuff. See where that takes you

exercise.

the heavier your air blast the more klinker seems to appear, I attribute that to the lack of patients, I knew a doctor that had to retire because he ran out of patients

jet dry ( which is sold in the North East, for dishwashers to prevent spots ) is used instead of Shaklee products,( because we never heard of "Shaklee" up here. )

Jack.....I'll tell you what, although I've never tried it on shoes, I can tell you this....it definitely works with punches and chisels,.........." If " someone shows you how it works. I would imagine the angle of the Quench would impact the result. Don't forget to "scrub" it in the liquid

do you preheat the flue ?

Sam, your skills get better and better with every project you do. I was sorry to hear you moved to Maryland, NY will miss your nuttyness, ha ha ha ha

good first try....next time think of this......the jaw and the rein are on opposite sides of the hinge point. It just looks like you were anxious to get them together, a little more work and you could straighten them out pretty good

funny thing about that video, I had quit smoking for almost two years before this guy shot the video, " don't try this at home " Smoking is bad for you, especially........ if you have quit.

one shoe......business card holder.....more shoes, wall hanging coat rack with horse heads on the end of the shoe,.......even more shoes, wine rack

Why would anyone argue with anything you said ?, you speak with wisdom. It may be hard to believe, but I also listen to every suggestion given, you can learn something from just about anyone...

first I would like to wish a happier and healthier year than last, to all Masters, journeymen and newbies alike. It is my resolution to finish my shop and bring the new smiths and the seasoned that live in my area together. Perhaps create the best forging of my life I forgot to mention ...I will TRY to be a kinder and gentler less opinionated blacksmith

I wonder how any of us old goats ever survived our childhood.....no seat belts....parents smoking....no bike helmets, shin guards elbow guards, knee pads, bb guns, ( how many eyes were actually shot out ? ) what the XXXX is going on ? No more cowboys and XXXXX .......(native americans).....fist fights....(learning to be a man, or standing up for your self ) getting your XXX beat if you screwed up, by the cops ..then your dad, ( nobody sued ), There was no Ms., only Mr.Miss or Mrs. , sling shots, don't get me started, this country has turned to XXXXX, because of the meek, and what about theXXXXXXXXXX ?, I ate one, I've tasted the belt too ! now its abuse, I call XXXXXXXXXX when did all this shooting stuff start to unfold ? with all the" time out" XXXX...instead of a good ole XXXXX whoopin' sorry for venting...but then again , XXXXXXXXX

lay out your jig, if it's 3", 4", or 2 & 3/32....every hole will be the same distance apart

normally you would use 3/4 sq, but 5/8 is o.k, ....1/2" is kind of light, once you draw the reins there is a possibility that a good squeeze will bend them. Just my opinion

yeah, thanks Glenn.....I can't seem to find technical info. The problem is the clearance between the punch and die is a tight 1/4". Its supposed to punch 1/2" bar. I think there is monkey business afoot as other things in the shop were obviously sabotaged. The so called "blacksmiths" have since been banned from this shop and I'm trying to get it back into a half way decent workable condition. They also took the locking nut for the chop saw blade and welded the saw together....among other things

I can't believe out of all the thousands of members on this site........nobody has a Geka ironworker. If there is a secret Geka society you can PM me....... in the code.......i have contacts that can decipher it if necessary