Jacob Nothstine Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Hit the scrap yard at lunch today, and spent $5.00 for all this. The large lathe turned rings start at 5" and go down to 1" will make a nice bending tool. The C shape things are made by Do All not sure what they are maybe a gauge for lathe work marked 1 -1 1/4, the green tubes have new Jacobs tapers. I also found a 5" round disk to complete the set for my bending jig and a nice oak cart with heavy duty casters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpearson Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 173 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpearson Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 173 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Jacob, the C shaped items are snap gages. The first button is the go size, the second one is the no-go size. They are used to check machined parts to make sure they are within a set tolerance. I would look to sell them , as they are fairly expensive new. The stepped piece may also be a gage. It appears to be polished. If so the size of the diameters may be dead on sizes to be used as a standard for a mic set, or some other testing device. If it is, it is worth guite a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Nothstine Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 snap gages - I spent about 20 minutes looking on line for what they were. Going to sell them might get enough for a propane refill. Thanks, Jacob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazeyladyfarms Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 I got these from a good friend said they need a good home and I think they have found one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Good friend, nice scores! Will you give my new friend my ph# please? We have some catching up to do. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Nothstine Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Stopped at a garage sale before work and pick up a hammer, Stanley 45, and some Emmet vise parts for $17.00Went to the scrap yard at lunch and pick up 140 lbs of scrap mostly 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 round and square, they were all longer lengths the cart is 6ft long. Also pick up a bar that is labeled Penn. Flexor Steel have to do some more research on it. All for $13.00 and a couple of cigars.It's been a good day, and sunny as you can see by my shadow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaamax Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 I got these from a good friend said they need a good home and I think they have found one Terrific items. the old stuff, imo, just takes the abuse better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 (edited) Las Cruces NM, USA fleamarket this weekend: 1 largish globe ended ball peen, 2 large ballpeen heads, (1 a Heller), old very fine sharpening stone with little wear, a dozen very rusted bits for a "brace and bits". total US$8 (finding ballpeens where the peen is a ball and in the larger sizes is unusual in my experience; good for dishing and armour making) Edited August 24, 2015 by ThomasPowers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 I finally found a blower for my forge. If it works. Its a 16 amp blower though and looks like it needs a good clean out as it has grass in it. I got it from the bouncy castle guys at our last bike rally. It looks like this one in the picIf you have the power supply capable of running it....The best and easiest way to reduce the output of the fan will be to just blank off a section of the input area. A pivoting/sliding shutter would give you variable control. Experiment with a sheet of cardboard.Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRS Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 If you have the power supply capable of running it....The best and easiest way to reduce the output of the fan will be to just blank off a section of the input area. A pivoting/sliding shutter would give you variable control. Experiment with a sheet of cardboard.AlanI do not reduce the input area but open a secondary output that blows in the room to reduce airflow. I think that this is better for the motor.Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 I do not reduce the input area but open a secondary output that blows in the room to reduce airflow. I think that this is better for the motor.ChrisThat's true if the motor relies on the blower for cooling air. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 (edited) I do not reduce the input area but open a secondary output that blows in the room to reduce airflow. I think that this is better for the motor.ChrisBetter for the motor how exactly?I am not an electrician but I have seen fans controlled by an input shutter from original manufacture, and have heard them speed up when you cover the inlet or the outlet.By reducing the amount of air completely the motor appears to run lighter with no load. The more air it has to shift the heavier the load.Frosty's point about the cooling of the motor is intriguing, would the motor need as much cooling if it was not under load? I can't think it would be very good design for the motor to be cooled by a bleed from the main fan on a bouncy castle. Presumably once up to pressure, the cubic throughput of air is hugely reduced although the load is still high maintaining the pressure.Maybe Stephen can show us a photo of the other side of his fan to see whether the motor is external and/or cooled by air from the main fan.Alanp.s. found a drawing of it which would appear to show that the cooling air is drawn through the motor and is part of the input to the centre of the fan. Which would work with the more air being blown the greater the load on the motor and also the greater the cooling effect. Stopping the main air input on the opposite side should not have any adverse effect on the motor cooling air. Quite the opposite. Edited August 25, 2015 by Alan Evans Found the sectional drawing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 I'm the type that drapes a damp cloth over part of the inlet and have never worried about overheating! But that's neither here nor there, what is interesting is the 115v model outperforms the 230v one by 20% , well slap me with a slipper ! I didn't see that one coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmoothBore Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 what is interesting is the 115v model outperforms the 230v one by 20% , well slap me with a slipper ! I didn't see that one coming!The difference lies in the frequency of the power supply. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Voltage or Amperage is only half the equation, Wattage is the indicator of power. If you have enough power you can make torque OR rpm the focus, with the fiddly bits in the motor.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRS Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Better for the motor how exactly?I think I made a generalizing statement that is not applicable to that fan, I was thinking like frosty wrote that airflow is required for cooling. But you made your point clear, now I have to test it on my own fan... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 I took it to be a cautionary statement, something to check for before blocking air flow. I just reiterated the statement in different words. The precaution doesn't appear to apply to this motor and fan. I have an old blower driven by a motor that depends on the blower for air flow. The case is open to the blower impeller with vents by the brushes at the other end and no other vents. There is NO other air flow except through the blower.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Well interesting...Looking at the drawing again I am not sure which way the air does flow through the motor.We will have to wait until Stephen fires it up and can put his hand near the motor side vent to see which way it is blowing.But I think my basic thought holds true either way...if you reduce the main input air it will reduce the load on the motor and therefore the need for motor cooling air.Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRS Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 It´s was something I memorized years ago and kept watching for, maybe I have transferred it from pumps. It was wrong to make a generic statement based on habits I have developed While it might be less stress for the blower to reduce air-intake I doubt my open end solution is measurable worse, most load is when I close my gate for high airflow. As long as the motor is not cooled by the airflow I think both ways are practical, but if it is it can reduce the lifetime certainly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 (edited) I must admit I was not considering motor cooling when I initially suggested closing off the input...just the ease with which it can be accomplished. The fans I have seen with that method of control did not have their motors in an enclosed box. I did not realise that the motor was enclosed on Stephen's one until I found the drawing.All my fan units however, which just use a sliding gate valve to shut off the air on the output side, are in plywood boxes with no direct/dedicated/independent feed to the motor vents. The plywood enclosures I built to reduce noise in the forge probably over twenty years ago. The single phase (F20M) one has had three or four sets of brushes and one new set of bearings in that time. The three phase .75kW one has been maintenance free.One advantage of reducing the input air rather than spilling the excess air would be lower power bills from less load on the motor. Not much saving if it cooks the motor of course!Alan Edited August 26, 2015 by Alan Evans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Followed me home from a mates. I think its a cut off tool but as always im not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Followed me home from a mates. I think its a cut off tool but as always im not sure. Tinmans stake. (Hatchet stake?) For folding an edge in sheet metal work.Have you noticed the discussion above about your fan…we are waiting til you fire it up and stick your hand over the motor see vent (if there is one ) to see which way the air travels through the motor….Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 I cant get to the fan just yet and is i can power it ill be impressed as its gonna draw a lot of power from the circuit. Ill try get it going by the weekend though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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