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When I was a youngster I needed to replace the shocks on my pickup.  My good friend Dirty Doug (RIP) told me it was easy, just cut the old ones off with your cutting torch and bolt the new ones in.  I jacked the truck up and blocked it, crawled under and lit the torch and proceeded to cut through the body of the shock (doh!).  The ensuing fireball engulfed nearly the entire underside of the truck fortunately away from me as the torch directed the fireball and I suffered no burns but did have to change my pants.  The oil in them is quite flammable.

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There are videos on YT showing what can happen with the strut springs. I wont post any because most have language that violate tos. I really feel bad for the kid that was leaning over one while he impacted the bolt off. Hope he survived. 

Just found a video of a guy who was torching off the top of the shaft of just a shock where the bolt was too rusted to take off normally and no room for other tools. Apparently there are shocks out there that have hollow shafts with the pressurized oil running in the shaft as well. He explained that it was about a 5' fireball that came shooting out of it. 

Strut assemblies and shocks are dangerous. Look for the already freed springs or take it to a professional to disassemble. Leave all parts of the shock to the scraper. 

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I find enough loose coil springs at my local scrapyard to not want the extra time and effort to remove them.  I did ask the scrapyard owner if they would remove the coil spring from an old heavy earth mover---it's 1.5" diameter spring steel and would be handy once I have the powerhammer running!

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21 hours ago, Frosty said:

Buzz: Aren't struts filled with oil or compressed gas and present a risk of an explosion if over heated?

Quite right.  Thanks to you and Glenn for catching that before someone got hurt based on something stupid I said.  I was only thinking about the spring tension and not other inherent danger.

The bottom line is the best options are to have a professional with the right tools do the work or sell it and find/buy some more suitable material. 

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Buzz, the site usually self corrects in a post or two.  Thank you for taking it the right way.

The inexpensive (read cheap) spring compressors are best left alone and not purchased.  The professional wall mounted units can get expensive but like any tool will pay for itself if used enough.  One spring is definitely NOT enough. 

Ok the spring on the other side of the vehicle failed, not they one you got. Besides how many cycles has that spring gone through already and does that spring have spiderweb fractures under the paint, rust, and dirt ?  Is it even worth your time and effort at the forge to make a product that may fail from bad or defective materials ??

 

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It's important to remember that just because you have it doesn't mean you have to use it. One major step on the path from newbie to experienced smith is realizing that you don't have to salvage every single piece of ferrous scrap that comes your way, let alone forge something out of it that could be made faster, easier, and better from new stock. Sometimes its best use is for its scrap value that can then be more profitably invested in tools, books, fuel, and other supplies.

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Only took 19 pounds home from the scrapyard Saturday; mainly some pipe for forging chilies, a bit of strap stock, a garden rake head to use as a tool holder, etc.  They said input should increase as folks need money for Christmas and the price of scrap has increased on the open market!  I'll check next Saturday...

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Nice John, I love mine, even though it's a cheapy it's been doing it's job for probably 40 years. I use it primarily for layout and marking. If I need to drill I re-punch the mark with a regular punch and hammer. 

I wish I'd picked up a few of the things at the time, everybody should have one in their vehicle. Nothing breaks a tempered glass side window like an automatic punch. The vehicle's side widow just crumbles and falls straight down without throwing glass anywhere. 

Frosty The Lucky. 

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Hmmm, thanks Das. I guess they have to balance folks getting their heads slammed through the side glass when they get T boned against being able to escape a car fire or sinking. Taking out the back glass when a car is sinking makes sense, cars go down engine first so the last air and the people will be at the back glass. 

I don't like it for fires though, the driver especially might not be accessible except the driver side window and if you can't break it there may  not be a chance. We were working on the highway setting cones for the work zone and somebody who didn't see the signs or the strobes swerves hard to avoid hitting out truck and hits the car in the next lane. That car went into the median ditch, deep to prevent vehicles from crossing into oncoming traffic, which is a good thing but it makes for some hard stops.

A couple of us run across to check and a vehicle stops on the other side of the median. The gentleman driving wasn't having any luck opening his door which is good, you don't want folks with possible injuries moving around till the EMTs get there. Well, Ambulance, EMT wasn't a term in the day. 

We can't get him to stop straining at the widow or door handle, the door was warped and not opening without tools. We're trying to calm him and he screams he can smell smoke and his legs are getting warm. We look for it and sure enough smoke is coming up from under his seat. C R A P!

I put my closed, pocket knife in my fist, yell at him to turn away and hammer fist the side window. Glass sugars and mostly falls though some flies. The gentleman starts struggling, he can't get out of the seat belt and smoke is boiling up from under the seat. In seconds flames were coming up too. There I am with my pocket knife in my hand and a brown duck jacket Carhart on. Open the knife, reach through the flames and cut the belt. The three of us grabbed him and jerked him out through the window. The whole thing, from running up to the car to dragging him probably 50' away couldn't have taken 30 seconds. 

I'm pretty sure we injured him worse than hitting the ditch did but we got him out before he suffered more than 1st and 2nd degree burns on his legs. His car was totally involved in seconds The driver who ran him off the road was gone, probably didn't even notice. 

I don't know if we could've dragged him over the seat and out through a rear side window. Definitely not through the rear window, the fire spread too fast, we would've had to watch him burn to death. 

Yeah, I relive that little episode every time I think about it. The memory is burned in.

Frosty The Lucky. 

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There deffinately are good and Bad sides to the laminated front door glass. I think I'd rather have the tempered glass myself. I totally agree with what you are saying. When seconds count it would make a big difference if the door is jammed and you can't break through the door glass. 

Just recently I did a repair on a vehicle that was vandalized. Front and rear door were hit with a pointy object at the B pillar right at the glass edge and door frame. Rear door window was blown out. Front door window (laminate)was just chipped at the impact site and cracked. Both door shells were bent in the window frame about equally from the impact. 

The way many cars are it would be a real struggle to get someone out quickly from the driver seat and through the rear door or hatch or back glass. 

Glad you were able to help that person get out. I know I'd gladly accept more injury getting pulled out of a wreck over burning to death. 

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On struts you can cut the spring in 2 places at the top and bottom, where the coils start to wind tighter then with a little finagling work the  pieces off. 

Had a little VW that we were scrapping once. I usually knock out the driver side glass so i can fill the car with the small stuff for scrap. I had a 10# sledge, whacked the glass, nothing, reared back and gave it my all. Took 8 or 10 swings for that glass to finally break. 

Anyway, found this on my porch this AM. Not sure what to do with it but i will figure out something, or the wife will. Weighs about 50# or so, cedar. 

20201206_145840.thumb.jpg.1e78f1475b428b47fc37986df46e99c2.jpg

Think my camera is going out, aint near this blurry even with out my glasses.

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Back from my trip with some goodies. Someone riding in my car asked me "Why does your toyota rav4 drive like a chevy truck?". Turns out both rear struts failed (oops :blink:). Got them replaced and kept the busted ones for projects. Specifically, hoping to use the rods inside as round stock and the exterior for flat stock. Just enough steel to mess around with I'm hoping, though it is a heck of a lot of hassle to get to it.

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I know not to try and heat these with the gas inside. I'm still brainstorming through the right way to disassemble these. Anyone know what ballpark pressure of nitrogen I can expect inside at room temperature? Can I drill a vent hole then cut an end off? The passenger side one sticks, it doesn't pull back if you extend it, so I think the oil leaked out.

And mail call from while I was away:

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Got myself a secondhand 2lb cross peen with a larger radius peen for texturing big leaves. When I tried a leaf with my other cross peens I kept leaving narrow lines because the peens were very tightly radius'd when I was trying to make ripples. I'm excited about this hammer. It's a nice weight in my hands. Also got myself some round hammer wedges, at BillyBones and others' recommendation. The hammer rattled out of the box, so I put a wedge in, and the force required to sink a wedge pushed the handle out of the eye by 3/8". I'll have to file a sharper edge on them. Also disappointed they don't have the barbs. I think I done goofed up.

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Are the rods in the SA's chromed?  If so you may save 50 cents by spending a couple of thousand!  I don't know about you but I can buy more and more easily used steel for about 10 minutes work at minimum wage while those look like a much longer process to get them to usable form.  Is the game worth the candle?

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