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I Forge Iron

It followed me home


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Hello Kenny O, 

 

Nice found with that 4340. 

http://www.zknives.com/knives/steels/steelchart.php?snm=4340

says: "low alloy tool steel, relatively high toughness, suitable for large knives"

 

C: 0.38-0.43, Cr: 0.70-0.90, Mo: 0.20-0.30, Ni: 1.65-2.00, Mn 0.60-0.80, Si: 0.15-0.30

 

After reading about your luck, got the itch to dig a little bit myself. 

I played today against the odds: almost empty junkyard covered by 8" of snow. Still managed to find a pair of tongs, a good pick axe head, a round file with broken tang but not bad teeth and some sort of shelf or toolrack or what. (No pics, sorry.)

It was real fun to deal with the increased challange.

 

Best to everyone and happy digging!

 

Gergely

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Gergely,

Thank you for the link, it is a valuable site, It did not show in my search.       

 

              Nice found with that 4340. 

                http://www.zknives.c...rt.php?snm=4340

                says: "low alloy tool steel, relatively high toughness, suitable for large knives"

 

                 C: 0.38-0.43, Cr: 0.70-0.90, Mo: 0.20-0.30, Ni: 1.65-2.00, Mn 0.60-0.80, Si: 0.15-0.30

 

 

And the odd hammerpost-2133-0-57004300-1391018654_thumb.pnpost-2133-0-99013800-1391018659_thumb.pn

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Kenny O

I would forge weld up a piece of the cable and water quench and see if it cracks that will give you some good info. I have made a lot of cable knives. I like at least 5/8 diameter so I don't have to fold it for more mass. If you fold it a lot of the time the pattern gets too fine for what I like, I have had some 3/4 cable that wouldn't harden much in oil but got hard in water so to me that makes it medium carbon at best.

I admit I have been intimidated about trying to weld cable, Thank you for this. By "crack" do you mean from bending, or from just submerging in the water?

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The "odd hammer" is a rough-in carpenters adze hammer, used in the days of rough cut lumber, before high quality dimension lumber became available. 

 

KennyO, carbon content above 0.8% may shatter in a water quench, so oil quenching is called for. Some cable can be 1.0% carbon or higher.

 

"Large knives" in industry does not mean bowie knives, it means giant square-edged shear blades, probably 3/4" or an inch thick, and suitably long and wide.

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what a joke calling that any form of blade steel :( MAYBE as a layer for a pattern weld for looks if desperate,  not for a real blades edge tho. basic physics can not be changed.   sorry.  We covered carbon levels in the knife section, and most real blade makers suggest over 0.50 carbon. 

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what a joke calling that any form of blade steel :( MAYBE as a layer for a pattern weld for looks if desperate,  not for a real blades edge tho. basic physics can not be changed.   sorry.  We covered carbon levels in the knife section, and most real blade makers suggest over 0.50 carbon. 

Yes I was under the impression that 4340 was for impact tools, referring to Mr Brazeal's tool topic. I will take my questions to the appropriate thread:) thank you all for the heads up!!

 

And thank you John for the hammer history!

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Hi All,

 

I'm sorry if the quoted site had misleading data. I like that site because it helps me to convert from one standard to another. (Ie. K1 of old Hungarian standard = AISI D3)

 

The site also claims that: 

  • "Note - I'm not a knifemaker or a metallurgist, the information is for reference purposes only."

http://www.zknives.com/knives/steels/steelchart.php

 

Bests to all:

 

Gergely

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I was feeling pretty under the weather Saturday; but my wife had been doing some spring cleaning (trees are starting to bloom!) and I really needed to make a trip to the trash transfer place---which is right next to the scrapyard....12 bags of garbage out 77 pounds of metal back to my shop.

 

About 30 pounds of it was rather rugged looking real wrought iron---repurposed tyres for the most part; but in heavier than usual cross section  A nice 6'x3/4" section of sucker rod with a joint in the middle---I like to use the joints to forge hardy stems out of for tooling and the medium carbon rod is good tong stock.  A bunch of RR Spikes; I don't use them but my Pastor wants to and I won't walk the tracks for them---20 cents a pound at the scrapyard is ok with me!  A couple of chainsaw chains for my pile awaiting welding.

 

My big find was a 4" Fuller C clamp with light surface rust---Wouldn't turn so got it at scrap rate.  I wire brushed the screw on both sides of the screwbox; hit it with PB Blaster; waited 15 minutes and then used a wrench to turn it with no real problem---got the rusted section out of the screwbox and wire brushed it and now I can turn it with one finger...Can't have too many clamps and it seems like every time I get a decent pile of them some wander off.  Tools are much worse than books---only your friends will steal your books but *everyone* will steal your tools---I once had a series of skull and crossbone stickers with the caption "No Tools Loaned!"

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thomas--you will see very soon. I have 3 burners from a Majestic that I put on another shell, but I hope to move them over to this unit ( if the math works). I also need to search IFI tonight for a super burner, or what other options are out there. I can't just build another forge as it would be my 5th propane, so I'm looking to combine. But, a single super burner would be fine and would allow me to give acoue away to beginners. I respect your opinion---what would you do?

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I think this was a pretty decent score. Got these from the neighbor across the street's scrap pile. I asked him what he wanted for those items, (the rest was just trash, rusted out drums, fencing and such) he said 'Take what you want. I'm sending the rest to the landfill.' I thanked him for that and loaded everything up, even broke out the weedeater to clear the grass that had grown up around the stuff and picked up all the little pieces of trash. Like someone on here in a previous entry said "leave the place better than when you got there" (paraphrased and sorry I didn't remember who or have the gumption to look back. :) )

 

ItFollowedMe1.jpg

ItFollowedMe2.jpg

 

The three pieces of railroad track in the picture are approximately 2', 3' and 4'. There were also five smaller pieces; 8", 8", 9", 11" and 2".

 

About four pieces of 1/2" rebar ranging from 3' to 4'.

 

The flange cover (big metal disc) is about 2' across and 2" thick. I haven't weighed it yet, but it is very difficult to lift into a truck bed by myself...lol. Thinking maybe swedge-block outta this... any ideas?

i use a couple of stacked 45lb Wieder plates as a floor anvil for upsetting long bar stock when i need to make a drift or some such. very effective. also 5 feet of rail on the floor. great to have 200 lbs of hard and heavy when you need it. that thing would be perfect. 

i made the weight lifting bar into a slitter, two drifts and a tomahawk head.

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Most of the iron in the truck was payment for welding services, some from scavaging, I am moving it to the new shop and out of the garage.

The hook was a "JUST GET IT OUTA HERE..." thing, I can only guess its intended use.

My girl friend is going to use it in the horse stall for bridals and such, it looks to be wrought iron,

I notice some striations, (nomenclature?)

post-2133-0-22656500-1394849958_thumb.jp

post-2133-0-04346800-1394849962_thumb.jp

post-2133-0-34894000-1394849965_thumb.jp

post-2133-0-02096200-1394849968_thumb.jp

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The grain on that grappling hook is beautiful.  And, museum or not, they aren't anchors.  An anchor has to be designed to come free from the bottom, and shapes like that won't.  Land use only, so you could walk over and untangle it when needed.

 

Excellent score.  

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