3 hours ago, Chad J. said:

How big is it across?   

About two feet. 

2 hours ago, Florida Man Metals said:

What will the table be used for and the height?

With the top, a bit more than 16”. It’s to go in front of the customer’s sofa. 

2 hours ago, Florida Man Metals said:

That wood is going to move a mile and in 6 months I won't be surprised if half the legs won't even touch the floor.

The customer is really into resin casting, and the wood will be completely encased. Even if it does move, you can see (especially in the third picture) that all the legs connect with a single loop at floor level, so any individual variations won’t make a difference. 

Thus:

I like to cook asparagus in butter. That way they slide right out of the skillet into the trash easily. 

I cook a lot of vegetables that  way broccoli, cauliflower, kale... 

Every year my mom goes to this place owned by some local Amish and gets me a strawberry rhubarb pie. The one i got last year had apples in it as well. Very tasty but then i dont think the Amish make bad baked goods.

 

The gate is finally finished and installed! Garage is 10ft x 10ft. The guy who commissioned it has last name Webb so he wanted the 'W' and some web design but not to look like a spider web. Each panel is just a titch over 100lbs. 

200 hours and a lot of lessons. One of those lessons was that I WAY undercharged. After hours and cost of materials, I came out at about $13/hour labor rate. Better than nothing or negative though!

Anyhoo ... here's the gate:

Those came out wonderfully!

Did your customer like them?  

With so many legs how do you fit your legs under the table, or just your feet

I have a really hard time reading people so when he was there in person, I honestly didn't know. But then he sent a text later: "Thank you so much, it's exactly what I wanted! Probably do another project before long. Talk soon."

So yeah, I think he liked them

 

He probably didn't want to appear too happy in person in case you asked for more money due to the extra hours of labour! 

But seriously, it looks great! Well done!

It wasn't today or even last week but 46 years ago.  The photo was taken and made into a poster for sort of an opening event although the gates were not done yet.  Cool job I had tightening the c-clamp while on a ladder.  There are two sets of the gates and reside in the NYS Senate chambers in Albany, NY.

I finally got my homebrew grinder working and started grinding on the spike dagger. Still need a lot of practice on the grinding, but it's improving slowly.

Nicely done on the basket hilt on that.   I hadn't even thought to try that!  Did you square it up and draw it out a bit then hit cut it or did you do most of that with a cutoff wheel?  The drawback of those split cross daggers they don't leave much to work with for a handle. 

I didn't finish them but I made a set of arrow head tongs tonight and about 18 leaves for roses.  I need to punch and rivet for the tongs but they are the best set I've made yet.  From 7-ish inches if 3/4 coil spring  Also burned off a bunch of stress from work,  which was much needed. 

I upset the handle to a square cross section, then split it with a bandsaw.

Finished up my arrowhead tongs last night,  was working on a couple dinner bells when I decided it was time I started to work on a new door handle for the shop.  I forged the original 3 or 4 years ago from a piece of 5/8 round.  It took me most of the day to make it.   Always meant to make a back plate for it but it mostly worked sooo.  Anyway the new handle took a little over an hour and a half and is from 3/4 square stock.   I have a piece of flat in the forge to make the face plate.   Just have to decide on a design. 

Those tongs look pretty cool. Am I correct that they have a tapered jaw to fit inside the socket and a larger jaw that goes on the outside? 

You are correct.   I made my first bodkin too.  Going to do a day where I see how many I can make.   

Chad, nice work this style of tong is known as a socket tong and it's used for doing most of the socketed blade work.

 

I like the flat jaw part to be more of a v more of a rounded v that way it allows for it to hold more sizes of socket

 

 

Jennifer, do you recommend a 90degree V or something larger like a 120degree V? I could see large differences in sizes benefitting from a larger angle…

 

Chad, those tongs have a very graceful look to them. I like them a lot!
 

Keep it fun,

David

David, More like a 30degree v..      Sockets have standard sizes..  So the outside radius of the socket is the main attribute to what size V..    To much of a V and the socket will deform while finishing the cutting edge just from the pressure of the tongs.. 

Not enough V the item will move around a lot while forging..   

I'm working on an obelisk shaped trellis for a friend. Sunday, I punched the 4 holes for attaching the legs then upset & scarfed to prepare for forge welding. Last night I forge welded and refined the ring shape. I didn't account for the length I would lose to upsetting, so it's just slightly shy of the 12" diameter I was going for. 

Next session I'll be tapering each end of the legs and punching holes for where they attach to the ring.

You should get the upsetting “loss” back when you forge the welded section back to dimension.  There is some degree of actual volume loss due to scale, though. 

If the 12” diameter is important, you can always draw the whole ring out a little.  (And punching itself will add a little length/diameter.)
 

The diameter isn't really important. Just what I had intended. My friend has no strict parameters other than obelisk and made by me, lol. Can be as fancy or as plain as I want. I decided it was a good project to practice some skills in punching & forge welding. I was also hoping to practice with the plasma cutter to make some clematis flowers (and probably still will eventually) but I've been fighting with the air compressor I have. Finally determined last night that the motor innards were full of mud dauber nests and since it still doesn't work after cleaning all that out, it is likely shot due to all the dirt etc breaking down the winding insulation & preventing the rotating magnetic field from working. Looking for either a replacement motor or full unit. 

If you haven’t, it’s probably worth checking the pressure switch and any thermal cut-off on the motor (and any other switch or contractor). Motor windings can go bad, but if there’s not even a hum, something like a switch seems more likely. 

Step by step... With the power hammer finally ready for use it was time to actually USE it. However, since I've never used a power hammer, I started with a 2x4 to get the feel for controlling the blows, then a couple of old RR spikes to be drawn and tapered. I wondered how flat dies would work for that...not so well, thankfully I also have drawing dies. First spike to about 12", second to about 17", mighty thrilling actually. I have a very limited collection of tongs and most are rather beat up, auction finds, none really well suited to holding the spikes securely. I managed pretty well though until the 2nd spike slipped in the tong and I wound up with a rather nasty trapezoid in my otherwise decent square taper. Was able to make a rough correction which was suitable for the task at hand.

My goal was to work through tying a loose knot in the spike, simply to develop experience. I used a chunk of solid wire to mimic & plan the steps of the bends. I didn't have a vise set up or any sort of scrolling tongs, just hammer and anvil. I'm using a small induction forge with the initial default coil, so also had to keep in mind how I could still apply heat in the necessary locations. All good challenges. I got part way through tying the knot and decided that I had reached a state that was more pleasing than if I'd completed what I set out to do.

A short video does a better job of representing the result than still pics. https://youtube.com/shorts/_X0lyWQoDYE

--Larry

 

 

3 hours ago, Mike BR said:

if there’s not even a hum,

There is a hum. Started by replacing the capacitor. When it still hummed, I went through a bunch of other stuff to check and finally just removed the cover of the motor and discovered all the mud dauber nests. Was really crossing my fingers that I just had to clean out the nests and it would start right up but ... no such luck.

Sure sounds like you need a new motor then.  (The only other thing I can think of would be a centrifugal switch controlling a start cap, but those aren’t too common in the U.S.)