TWISTEDWILLOW Posted November 1, 2022 Share Posted November 1, 2022 Tore down the forge I picked up Saturday, heavy rust was a bit more then I anticipated right around where the tuyere pipe blots up, rest of the pan is in good condition but imma need to cut out a piece of plate to overlap the bad spot to help reinforce it, stripped everything down with a wire wheel an started on the first coat of rustoleum primer, i do two coats of primer an two coats of stove paint hang drying to the touch outside then finished drying it out faster with the shop stove since it’s a little cool an humid outside, Ratchet the shop dog is keeping a close eye on it, the blower was locked up and the impeller is trashed but I had another spare blower handy in good shape the original cast iron ash gate was missin but I had a spare one of those too, I’ve decided to copy Randy an Debi on this one and try out lining it with pottery clay instead of messin with the rockey red dirt from the ditch, it’s a steel pan so probably don’t need a liner but I figured with the primer an paint an a good liner insulating it from the heat the old pan will last another few decades of use, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted November 1, 2022 Share Posted November 1, 2022 Made some tongs. Not finished, they need to be fitted yet. And aligned. Inspired by mark aspery v-tong for beginners. Made mine out of 30x6 instead of the 20x6 he uses. Had what trouble with the boss, a bit to thin, but no idea how to correct it. I had some coldshuts (i forged to cold), nothing a welding machine can't repair. Want to make flat tongs for 6mm thick steel and a grove inside for 8mm round/square. They feel flimsy, I made long rains, gasforge user and i like the little bit of hear on my fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 They don't look too bad, thin yeah but they look pretty decent from here. Keep them not everything need a hard grip. Nothing to do about the boss being too thin except to remember NOT TO DO THAT next time. Are you keeping a notebook? You can write down all the details, like what you want to make, starting stock and size. Where you set the bits down and boss. The results and include some pictures. Maybe a sketch of what you intended to make so you can compare. It'll really help you figure out what does and doesn't work. And you just never know something that didn't work might be perfect for something else at a later date and it's really nice to have it in a notebook. Much better than having an old memory of that dingus I think would be perfect. Dang what WAS I trying to make when I did that instead? <sigh> Notebooks are excellent learning tools and instructing tools and can be pure gold later. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 Forge weld extra thickness, arc weld extra thickness, explosive weld extra thickness; see the pattern? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 Okay, you can torch spray extra thickness too I suppose or braze thin plates on each half. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 Add tickness? Frosty. I have a notebook. Very bad connection at the workshop, so i need sketches otherwise i miss a step in the process and keep wondering what i did wrong. I will messure the boss. From the looks of it, i lost max 1mm (starting from 6mm). The beginnen of the rains (? Spelling?) is thick. Almost 11mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 We're joking Gewoon, there are ways to thicken parts like yours but they're kind of specialized, explosive welding might even be extreme. Reins like you steer a horse with though handles works just fine. This is an international forum so I'm sure folks all over the world are trying to figure out what we're talking about half the time. Don't hesitate to ask if you don't know what I'm saying or mean. Heck sometimes I don't. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 Oh, you're joking? I just ordered some explosives to do explosion welding. seems like the reasonable way to do this. Probably leave these as is and make better ones with these. After 20 tongs, i hope i know how to make one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 Nice, but a little flimsy. That is why I use 3/4" square for most of my tongs. You can either forge weld on reins or draw them out. Lol, I still have and use my second "flimsy" set of tongs,, not the first as they were beyond use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 On 11/1/2022 at 11:57 AM, TWISTEDWILLOW said: I’ve decided to copy Randy an Debi on this one and try out lining it with pottery clay instead of messin with the rockey red dirt from the ditch, Before ya go and buy clay, we will bring some to the BOA meeting for ya. Debi says she has the perfect RedArt stoneware hi-fire clay to use mixed with sand like you have for the anvil stands to make Fireclay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 Heard a couple of loud BOOMS this morning already from the EMRTC blast pads; I wonder if they were welding... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 You should see my first couple pair of tongs Gewoon, they're almost spidery thin and I have to be careful not to bend the handles together holding stock too hard. Now you have the explosives, maybe we can experiment with a REAL POWER hammer. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexandr Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 Installed chandeliers in the hallway of a country house. The next stage, I will make the same chandelier in the hall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 Test mounted the new shear (clamped on top of my striking anvil) and chopped out a bowl blank. 16 ga. turns out to be too thick to cut smooth curves, but the shear cuts smoothly and precisely. I’m reasonably happy with it (especially for $65). It also does a fine job chopping 3/8” round with the built-in bar cutter. Now to figure out a more permanent mounting fixture. Ideas begin to circle inside my head…. Also did a test fit of the 3D-printed depth stop on the fly press. Alas, the bore is 1/32” too narrow, so we’ll need to print another version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 More beautiful work Alex. Are bare bulbs like that popular in Russia? You see them here but not as often as I see you using them. I suppose you want to keep your shear portable? Solid and portable is a bit of a challenge. Have something it can share a stand with, maybe the striking anvil has a hardy hole? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 I would consider a gozinta in the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 The striking anvil does indeed have a hardy hole, but I’m envisioning something more solid. The base of the shear is a bit longer than the length of the anvil, and I’m getting stirrings of an idea for a base that would hook onto the edge of the anvil at the back and have a built-in clamp on the front to hold it down securely. Pushing down on the handle makes the back want to rise up, which that hook would well resist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 Gozintas should always be a first option. A wedge through the shank would secure the shear to the anvil solidly and be easy to remove. The Beverly shear we had in high school metal shop was on a pipe stand bolted to the floor. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 Thomas, thas was my tonga failing. One of the beaks failed, to thin. I can cry about it. Or weld it and see what will happen. They don't look like a masterpiece, so a bit more uglyness will not kill me. Doing a wrap without a torch is hard. Especially if the heartshape is just fits the forge. I think the heartshape is to big (and a bit wobly, but thats from doing the wrap in the vice. I need to clean it up. The fork bit is not ready. I run out of time and for once i stopped instead of rushing the job. Sizewize. Overall length as is now is 640mm. Roundbar of 8mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 Tongs are supposed to work, not look pretty. Next time get the heart right then hold the heart itself in the vise and twist the free end to the shaft. A wonky heart can be part of a theme, all you need to do is come up with a story and maybe a name. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les L Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 Getting ready for this month's club meeting I made a candle holder for iron in the hat. I donated the dragon letter opener I made for Twisted's challenge to last month's meeting. Our oldest member, who's initials are RAM, thought it was a ram's head (he didn't have his reading glasses on) and tried to win it, but he wasn't able to, so he asked me to make another for him, so I tried a ram's head for him. Both were fun projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWISTEDWILLOW Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 21 hours ago, Irondragon ForgeClay Works said: Before ya go and buy clay, Bummer I already ordered some a few days ago, it’s supposed to be delivered today, thank yall for the offer though! I don’t know anything about pottery clay but the stuff I ordered said something about cone5? and Terracotta is supposed to be the color, the reviews I read had some people complaining said it was gritty and had sand in it, but I’m not making any pottery so I don’t care about the sand lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeJustice Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 If you do a search like "refractory rating cones", you will find that cone 5 is a rating of the melting point of the refractory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 I bought a sack of fire clay back when I was first making a propane forge. That was just after I discovered the coal we were collecting wasn't so good for smithing. Talking to potters who built their own kilns I discovered nobody tried making their own, well except for a few "back to the beginnings" purist types. Including saw dust and sand didn't make a useful liner but about 3pts. sand to 1 pt. clay makes a good mix to "clay" my rivet forge. I use fire clay because I have it, not because it's better. That I don't know. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWISTEDWILLOW Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 43 minutes ago, LeeJustice said: melting point of the refractory Just looked it up, didn’t see any about melting clay just something about the cone ratings are for final firing of glaze the one I ordered is in the 2000s for firing I’m not worried either way, it will work or it won’t I don’t know what the cone rating is for red dirt outta the bar ditch either, but it works great in every forge I’ve built or restored, this time I just wanna try something I ain’t gotta dig gravel out of lol Jerry why did you put saw dust in your liner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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