the first label seems to show 5HP, the second photo does not have a visible HP rating, it looks rubbed off

21 hours ago, Steve Sells said:

I should add that making a cord from Romex is asking for trouble

Certainly wouldn't do that! If I do put a 240v outlet in the garage, I suppose the appropriate gauge Romex would be good for the 50'-60' run from the breaker box, but not for anything that's going to be moved around, coiled out of the way, etc necessary for my little shop. 

I thought that amp draw seemed low, and Steve seems to agree. Something is not right with that label.

Just straight by the numbers, 1 hp = 746 watts. That would mean 5 hp = 3728 watts. Watts/volts = amps, so 3728 watts @ 230v = 16.2 amps. These are theoretical numbers and would need put into real work application.

Wire for extension cords is different in terms of wire type and coatings. Romex is actually just a brand name of wire, not a type.

My numbers came straight from the code book

I know they did, I wasn't questioning your numbers. The NEC is one of the nicer codes for laying out numbers.....and the color pictures are nice too.....

My comment and number were to point out the numbers on the motor tag don't make sense.

another thing that does not make sense...why would a spa use 240v for a 1HP motor, when they could have just as easily used a motor wired for 120v and ran off any normal 120v outlet making sales of said spa easier, due to that?

While this is an interesting discussion and I find myself thinking of how I'd test the actual BHP of the motor, it's just curiosity. I hate guessing about things that can kill someone and burn down the house, garage, . . .anything. Think your insurance will pay off on any fire if they find do it yourself wiring anywhere?

This is exactly why I bite the bullet and hire someone like Steve and just point at where I want: lights, switches, outlets, panels, etc. and pay the bill. When I can't afford it I wait and save up.

Getting advice from people on the internet is just entertainment at best. Just look at how many . . . Nevermind, forum rules. suggestions you see in this thread.

John: Have it done by a licensed and bonded professional. I don't have so many friends that I can afford to lose one if I can help it.

Ahh, I see we're typing at the same time again. The pump motor I took out of our old spa is 2HP. 240v and the one that was given to me is 3HP 240 v. the amp numbers on the tags match up and neither gives you the option of 120v. 

Frosty The Lucky.

The motor in the press right now is 3hp, which is a little underpowered. I wanted to go up to 5hp for more squish, and this one came up on the website of my local industrial surplus place for very little. 

A 56 frame motor at 3600 rpms and 240v is more in line with a 1 or 1.5 HP. Maybe 2 at the most. There are some specials out there though. How does the physical size compare to the 3 HP you have now?

About the same; maybe a hair smaller. 

I’m starting to think this motor may not be what I’d hoped. The good news is that even if it’s not, I’m out less than $50 and still have a working motor. 

I'm thinking 1 1/2. My Baldor catalog shows a 1.5HP, 3600RPM, 240V, 56H frame with 8 FLA.

You are right. You have a working motor for future projects.

Or to sell and use the cash for something else. I'm not going to bother putting a 240v outlet into the garage if this is all I'd be running off it.

but putting a 240v 70a sub panel in, for a work shop is very nice to have, all your work breakers in one place,  you can shut them off when you are away preventing accidents from children and nosey brothers

No doubt, but (A) I just spent the last eight bucks of my blacksmithing budget on drops from my steel supplier and (B) my brother lives in Texas.

You're right; with a brother in Texas you would probably need a locking power off and electrified concertina wire as well!

Oddly enough, I used to play the concertina. Sold it a few years back (after many years of not playing) and put the money into smithing supplies.

Added some locking casters to the feet:

The basic idea is to give me more flexibility within the shop, as my half of the garage is getting more and more crowded.

This also raises the working height to about the middle of my sternum. While this is perhaps unconventionally high, I found myself having to bend over much more than my lower back cared for while using The Pressciouss, and I’m hoping this will help. I also have an idea for an adjustable stock support, should that become necessary.

Starting to think again about upgrading to 5hp and feeling a little gun shy about amps etc. Looking at some new motors for sale online, I see that a number that are labeled "SPL" where the hp and the amps don't look like they match up. On the other hand, there are some reasonably priced ($230-$330) 5hp "air compressor duty" motors running around 22 amps at 230 volts; does that sound about right?

That is actually just what I ordered for mine, should be here tomorrow. I found that Ebay had the best prices on motors, mine was like $195 with tax and shipping. As you mentioned, make sure you look at FLA. There were quite a few that were listed as 5hp then the spec's said 16 FLA's and an actual 3.5 hp.

I ran across a comment on a machinery forum somewhere that said "'SPL' stands for 'Someone's Probably Lying'!"

Having done pretty well on this year's tax refund, we're back in the realm of considering upgrading the motor to 5 HP. Since we didn't do quite well enough to get an electrician to install a 230V outlet in the garage, my current thinking is to run a cord to the unused dryer outlet in the basement. As best as I can figure, it's about a 50-60 foot run from that outlet to where The Pressciousss stands. I think the best option would be to make a long extension cord with a NEMA 10-30 fitting on either end and use the dryer cord I mentioned in this comment wired into the new motor and its switch.  This will enable me to disconnect The Pressciousss and move it around the garage without being leashed to the wall.

On 11/10/2019 at 7:33 PM, Steve Sells said:

IF YOU WANT A  LONGER RUN,  you will most likely need a heaver gauge wire to compensate for voltage drop

Steve, does this sound like a reasonable plan? If so, what gauge wire would you recommend? Also, am I correct in assuming that I need a switch that can handle the 22 amps or so that the higher HP motor will draw?

no smaller than 8ga SRO cord for 5 hp that for 35 amps plus voltage drop for the run

I made a 40 foot extension cord for my welder and was surprised how much the 8 ga copper cable cost me. If I remember right it cost $120 U.S. but it works good. (may have been 6ga, it's been a long time)

Good to know; thank you both. 

I tell you, it's nice and worth the cost to be able to move the welder and not be tied to the short cord that comes with it.