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Converting an inverted hydraulic press into a light-duty forging press

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11 hours ago, Fowllife said:

I would also think lock tight would be a good idea on both the nuts holding the cylinder together.

You can see from the photo a couple of comments up that some previous user applied some two-pound loctite to the ends of the tie rods to keep the nuts in place. 

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Update on Parker: my local supplier got back to me with a quote of $28.97 for a set of four rods, which is ten bucks cheaper than getting two 3' lengths of 5/8-18 all-thread in B7 from McMaster-Carr (although six bucks more than the same all-thread from Tacoma Screw Products). However, they want $4.14 for each nut, whereas McM-C wants $8.49 for a pack of 25 nuts in Grade 8 and Fastenal wants $0.98 each.

When I spoke with Parker, I had specified that the threaded section be longer at one end, to accommodate the "bolt on the head cap, then bolt to the table" arrangement. I've emailed my guy at Parker HQ about how long that section is, and then I will probably order the tie rods from my local supplier and get the nuts either from Fastenal or McMaster-Carr.

The work continues.

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What's wrong with the nuts that are currently on the cylinder, or did you have to switch to a different thread pitch?

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I might not be able to get them off, as the ends have been hammered on. Even if I do, that's only four, and I need eight for the new arrangement.

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Further update from Parker: the extended threaded portion will have about 2-3/4” of usable thread. I’ll need 1/2” (for the top nut) + 1-1/4” (to pass through the top) + 1/2” (for the nut holding on the head cap) = 2-1/4”. 

From the top of the head to the bottom of the cap is 12-3/8”, so 12-3/8” + 2-1/4” + 1/2” for the bottom nut = 15-1/8”. The tie rods are 15-1/2”, so that gives me 3/8” extra, or 3/16” on either end. 

I grabbed a 5/8-18 nut at my local hardware store, and it fit the tie rod perfectly. Thread pitch confirmed.

I think I’m good. I’ll place the order tomorrow. 

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Alright! Pays to shop around, that's a dramatic price difference and you're getting the part designed for the job. 

SWEET!

Frosty The Lucky.

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Not so sweet as expected, alas. I called to place the order, and it turns out that the price (which I must have misheard) is $128.97. I guess I'll be going with the threaded rod after all.

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OUCH! Be careful to NOT ding the threads. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Order placed with McMaster-Carr.

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Okay, I’m going to start right out and say that Fowllife/Tom was incredibly generous with his time, skill, and supplies today. He torched out the center hole: 

04887415-C2BF-40B9-9743-EFAD0BEBAE33.jpeg

Drilled out the cylinder mounting holes:

732DE82C-F635-4262-BFDE-AE06A99F4576.jpeg

Welded the top joints of the frame:

766C2188-A22B-4AD9-8EA5-512A31476F6E.jpeg

And the frame to the table:

A2770DF8-9CAD-48F2-A809-619D5212C84B.jpeg

With great success!

68F7C8B7-F435-450F-A4E0-E8E86635E2DE.jpeg

A grand time was had by all (and there is no way I could have gotten any of this done on my own).

A6C29D8F-F69F-4E68-BB36-84928A1E09D7.jpeg

For those who are interested, the welds were a root pass with 6011 and then 1-2 passes with 7014. 

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Test fitting the shaft. Needs a little cleanup, but not much. 

ED0DEFCA-1F9C-4432-B9CC-44643385FD7F.jpeg

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And I just so happen to have one!

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You two are wearing the kind of smile I so love to see! 

You're going to be smooshing hot steel in no time! 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Switching out the old bolts for the all-thread that arrived yesterday from McMaster-Carr. The doubled nut on the one rod is for spinning it down into the lower cap with a speeder wrench. 

602D0EC2-A433-40F3-AD4F-B37B0204B509.jpeg

We’ve got clearance, Clarence!

4743320E-005F-4F26-90D8-9D5DDC460DF2.jpeg

Next step: fettling the center hole and making sure the mounting holes line up with the bolts. 

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I'm getting excited John. While you're fettling everything I'd probably degrease, scuff and paint the ram in my shop colors. I know it's cosmetic but with all the work you've put into that beauty she deserves a NEW DO for the new job. Don't you think? Ask the missus. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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My shop colors are “grease”, “rust”, and “whatever paint was on it when it came in”!

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I wonder if I should spin some of the extra nuts up to the underside of the bottom cap, to act as lock nuts. Probably not necessary, but just a thought. 

792025CC-DB39-4BC9-8AB1-4B4B847EC9A6.jpeg

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On 6/24/2019 at 10:14 PM, Frosty said:

But the grade is the grade and all screws fail at the threads in tension. I'll rest on this one.

I wouldn't. The way I see it, the manufactured part has irregularities, and a proportion of these are at the weakest point, the ID of the thread. The longer length of product at this ID the greater chance these defects occur there, making a chance to fail at a lower than expected tension.

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No need to double nut it under the table. The table top will lock the nut, you ARE putting a nut on top of the table. Yes?

Frosty The Lucky.

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Yes, one nut between the head and the table, one on top of the table. 

The double nut was suggested for under the bottom cap.  

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Yeah, that's a good precaution.

Frosty The Lucky.

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