August 10, 20178 yr I've been trying for the last couple of days to get a decent pic of this knife, but it's proved to be more stubborn than me. 500 layers is maybe a bit too much, and the vertical pattern is so fine that it doesn't show up in the picks, and just looks muddy. It shimmers in person. (Honest ) This started as a 512 layer billet 3/8" thick that I laddered with dies that have 1/4" rods space 1/2" CTC. the handle is desert ironwood burl with brass bolsters and copper liners. The blade is at 8" long, 2" high at the heel, and about 0.150" thick at the bolster. Here is a cheesy video. I need to work on the video skills... https://youtu.be/ka3xoOMXyJM
August 10, 20178 yr That's a really pretty knife, @rhitee93. Speaking as a user (and not as a maker; my knifemaking skills are nowhere near yours!), I would only have one suggestion: if you were to continue the rounding of the spine all the way to where the bolster curves up to meet the spine, it might be a bit more comfortable under the hand, especially if one is given to choking up on the blade. That's just going on the photo, though; it might well feel just fine in the hand.
August 10, 20178 yr Author That was one of the mistakes on this knife 22 minutes ago, JHCC said: ... if you were to continue the rounding of the spine all the way to where the bolster curves up to meet the spine, it might be a bit more comfortable under the hand... Thanks JHCC, The intent was to do as you say, but I forgot to put the holes for the bolster pins in before I heat treated the blade. (The bolsters have two hidden pins that holds them in alignment when I solder them on) I didn't realize the mistake until I had completed finish grinding so I couldn't go back and re-quench at that point. This caused me to alter the handle design a bit to move the pin locations back far enough that I felt comfortable I could soften and drill the tang without messing up the temper of the blade. (Carbide bits aren't in the budget) I had then intended to round over the edge to the new bolster point, but in my exuberance to get the bolsters soldered on, I forgot to do it. I broke the spine corners as best as I dared to with the bolsters in place, and it is quite comfortable in the pinch grip, but it is not as I intended
August 10, 20178 yr I like the sharp line from the bolster to the heel of the blade. It is a bit unusual as they are usually curved. The pattern shows up beautifully in this photo and, in my opinion, the 500 layers is nice.
August 11, 20178 yr Try finding a south facing window and popping the board close to it -mid afternoon - a high noon sun through window glass is better than any studio light, if it doesn't work right away stick something under the board to angle it in a preferred direction and you'll get the light you seek for the best shot possible Also if the light is only dim from one side cover a small board with tin foil and use it as a reflector to "bounce" the light to the other side of the piece and even out the exposure of the shot. Hope that helps
August 28, 20178 yr Beautiful blade. My damascus is usually at 448 layers and is fine also, but I understand what you are talking about withe the shimmer, or chatoyance. Great job IMO
August 28, 20178 yr Rhi... Sir, Would a small diameter rod heated to yellow do for a spot annealing device, for the drill hole? That would enable drilling just there and not affect the temper of the blade's steel. Also, you may wish to consider using a diamond coated file/riffler to bevel the spot that is adjacent to the spine. Harbor Freight may have these cheap oriental knock offs. (also, specialty woodworking sellers like Wood Craft (et al.), where I got a set). They are cheap and expendable. Thinking outside of the box, as per usual. Regards, SLAG. I forgot to add, a rotary tool (such as a Dremel), have stone burrs or even carbide "bits", to also do the spot grinding. (the carbide steel cutters can be pricey). But if you haunt the hobby or hardware stores they often go on clearance. That's when the SLAG buys lots. Concerning forgetting, I am not too sure where my brain is at, (fugue?) at the moment. A couple of cups of coffee should help! SLAG.
August 28, 20178 yr When I need to drill hardened metal I use a solid carbide drill bit---I pick them up whenever I find them CHEAP at the fleamarket to hold in reserve...However I draw temper pretty far on tangs as they don't need hardening.
August 28, 20178 yr 6 minutes ago, SLAG said: Rhi... Sir, Would a small diameter rod heated to yellow do for a spot annealing device, for the drill hole? That would enable drilling just there and not affect the temper of the blade's steel. This would be an effective method for spot tempering, but i dont think it will normalize it, let alone anneal it. Probably wont nake it soft enough to easily drill. I think you are on to something though.
August 28, 20178 yr No normalizing is necessary. Quenched steel is then annealed (to soften it). No normalizing is required. SLAG.
August 28, 20178 yr I was told a nice tip from an old blacksmith...to use the back of an old drill bit to heat up the hardened area you need to drill. Let it cool, and then drill as normal. To anneal the hardened area. Only as a last resort! Oh yes...very nice knife by the way I meant to comment yesterday but ...
August 29, 20178 yr 6 hours ago, MastaStan said: I was told a nice tip from an old blacksmith...to use the back of an old drill bit to heat up the hardened area you need to drill. Let it cool, and then drill as normal. To anneal the hardened area. Only as a last resort! Oh yes...very nice knife by the way I meant to comment yesterday but ... That's old school machinist. You don't need to reverse a drill bit a piece of round stock works just fine, 1/4" round will draw out the temper to drill 3/8" just fine. Been doing this since jr. high shop class, 7th grade and up. Been waiting to see someone on Forged in Fire with actual shop experience do this when the tang is over hardened but noooooope. Frosty The Lucky.
August 29, 20178 yr I've wondered much the same Frosty. Read of that trick in some old gunsmithing book years ago for drilling holes for scope mounts on a receivers.
August 29, 20178 yr Author 19 hours ago, MastaStan said: I was told a nice tip from an old blacksmith...to use the back of an old drill bit to heat up the hardened area you need to drill. Let it cool, and then drill as normal. To anneal the hardened area. Only as a last resort! Oh yes...very nice knife by the way I meant to comment yesterday but ... Now that is one trick I hadn't heard yet!
August 29, 20178 yr 20 hours ago, MastaStan said: I was told a nice tip from an old blacksmith...to use the back of an old drill bit to heat up the hardened area you need to drill. Let it cool, and then drill as normal. To anneal the hardened area. Only as a last resort! I've never heard that one either. And I am a machinist! Lol. Good tip.
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