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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by rhitee93

  1. Do you have a store that caters to the R/C car and plane crowd nearby? Every local hobby shop in my part of the world has brass tubing, and rod stock up to 1/4" as well as sheet stock up to 0.032".
  2. It's been a while since I have shared anything with y'all so I thought I'd post some pics of a few pieces I finished up recently. This first one is an interesting little EDC/Utility knife made for someone who had very specific design requests. The overall shape may not be everybody's cup of tea, but after sending several sketches back and forth, this is what they really wanted. In the end they were thrilled. The blade is san-mai with 304SS over W1. The bolsters are nickel silver, and the wood is from a piece of spalted persimmon that the customer provided that I then stabilized.
  3. That kitchen blade you reference a pic of looks like it has stainless outer layers. That is one way to get the really "far out" looking migration patterns. I've done quite a few of these using both 304 and 416 outer layers with 1084 and W2 inner material. It's not an easy thing to do, but there are a lot of descriptions out there on the interweb if you're up for the challenge. It's hard to get the broad transition zone with a without using stainless steel. 15N20 with a 1084 core will give you a lot of contrast, but it will be a sharp transition between the two materials.
  4. "Cheap" and "Epoxy" are not usually found together. I use G-Flex from West Systems, but some other makers that I look up to have stopped using it in favor of Acraglas which is a rifle bedding epoxy. Just remember even really great epoxy isn't a substitute for a well executed glue joint design.
  5. Thanks guys. Wow, it's been a year since I made that knife. I kind of cringe to look at it now. It's funny how that works. I've spent most of the last year working on slipjoints, and have worked up a couple designs of my own to get away from using Steve's pattern. I've also been tweaking my process for fitting the pivot and busing so that I get a good solid peen on the pivot, but a nice snappy action at the same time. I'll try to gather up some photos and post them here along with some of what I have learned about building them. I've been kind of lame about not posting any work for
  6. I'd have written them a check for 10 cents just so they have to deal with keeping track of the positive balance. You guys have me thinking about the starry/constellation mosaic theme... ...it's dangerous to get me thinking. To the OP, I think it is a nice honest knife. I would have taken the grind up higher for a kitchen knife, and gone to a finer grit on the "bevels", but that is only my preference.
  7. I guess you could do that. (Well, I probably couldn't) You'd have to weld on the edge steel afterwards, but that would have been the norm for much of history
  8. The color is only an indication of what temperature the surface of the steel go to. (not a very good indicator by the way) It does not indicate anything about how complete the tempering process is. Generally speaking, you'll want more than one temper cycle regardless of what color the steel turns. There are numerous descriptions of the changes that happen to the structure of the steel around here that would explain it better than I can. Edit: Oops, sorry, I just realized this is an older thread.
  9. It's easier with top and bottom tooling, but it can also be done half-on the anvil edge. There is a guy in Poland that does some fantastic reproductions of Germanic spear points with central ribs. He does all of his work with just a hammer and anvil. I suspect the answer you don't want to hear is that you don't forge the rib, you forge everything else away from it.
  10. Mr Powers made me think more. "Yellow" is subjective, but it is where I weld high carbon steel at. (about 2200F) However, I can't weld mild steel at temps that low, and I wouldn't have said any of the samples in your video indicated high carbon content.
  11. RToons - This is a bit of a thread hijack, but I'll give you a quick response. Some steels have alloying ingredients that make them very difficult to forge weld. Your prep and approach sound pretty good. Since you don't really know what those steels are, I suspect the alloys are your problem.
  12. Wow, had to go back and look at the 3V datasheet again. That stuff tempers much higher than S35VN. Based on what you have said, I can't help but wonder if you are right about it being a lower alloy steel. Does it rust if you leave a drop of water on it overnight?
  13. I've not used 3V, but have dabbled with S35VN recently with decent results. The data sheets look similar in process, although the temps are different. What temp did you decide to quench from? What temper temp did you use?
  14. Something has reacted with it, but you may never know what. I don't like to stick tape on my blades for any operation where they get wet because this sort of things always seems to happen. (I am assuming you are wet sanding) When I get up to the higher grits, and need to flip the blade, I just wipe down the surface of the board I have the blade on, and fold up a clean piece of paper towel to lay between the blade and the board. I also used glass cleaner rather than water when sanding. It doesn't cause rust as fast.
  15. Wow, I haven't seen an old Shop Smith in a long time. I remember those infomercials on saturday mornings in the late 70's. (before infomercial was a word) The knife shows some improvement over the first. Fit and finish are pretty rough, but you knew that already. Focus on one aspect of your next one and make that aspect as good as you can. Do that each time, and you'll make good progress. I suspect you are shaping your handles on that 1x30. I've messed up more handles with a belt grinder than I care to admit. I do most of my handle shaping with rasps and files now. It goes pre
  16. Look for Steve Culver's book on the subject. It'll tell you everything you need to get started.
  17. Thanks for the kind words guys. Anachronist58, we are all just hacks in our own right. The guys that start with dirt (ore) and make blades are the true masters. Mason, Here are the parts shortly before final assembly. The pins in this pic were just fit-up pins. I cut new nickel silver ones for the final assembly. Here is an earlier shot that shows the interaction of the parts:
  18. I can't give you any advice on micarta as I don't mess with it much, but I wanted to say your knife shows a lot of promise. One suggestion, and take it for what it's worth, is to take your bevels up much higher. I would have run the bevel up a little more than twice as high as you did at the heel and run it out perpendicular to the plunge line until it broke out on the spine of the knife. (Ok, that probably isn't as clear to you after you read it as it is in my head when I wrote it ) My opinion is worth exactly what you are paying for it, but I feel that gives you a better perform
  19. I finally went ahead and sketched up my own slip-joint design. I like the old Fiddle-back or Coke Bottle style knives, so that is the aesthetic I was after. This is the prototype, and mechanically, the action turned out pretty good. I might go for a few thousandths more spring preload in the next one, but not enough to really change the design of the parts. I'm going to reduce the diameter of the pins and move them in a bit on the next one. These are 3/32" pins, and look a bit too large after being peened. I might try 1/16" pins on the next attempt. The blade is 2.5" overall and
  20. They guys aren't kidding about the beryllium copper thing. I forget the actual number but it's something like 30% of people are sensitive enough that a low level of exposure to inhaling the dust is fatal.
  21. Carbon steel blades will oxidize over time with any practical level of care. The idea is to get them to oxidize with forms of iron oxide other than red rust as they are less problematic, and tend to extend the time it takes for red rust to form. Many of them happen to look pleasing as well which is a bonus. To my knowledge, there is no concern with bluing and food safety as long as the blade is cleaned of all the bluing chemicals after it is done. Hot bluing requires a pretty significant commitment to do in the home shop. Some do have setups, but unless you plan to do a lot of it, you
  22. This is one of the reasons I like to make kitchen knives. You can make an artistic piece like this, (ok, mine aren't that nice), and people will actually use it every day. If I make a hunting knife with a similar level of artistic flair, people tend to stick it in a desk drawer. All of the knives I use at home are ones I made, and all pattern welded. It is my test bed. Daily use with good care brings on a patina that I think helps the pattern. On the other hand, nobody else in my family gets to use the better ones because they do things like leave them in the sink and run them th
  23. I agree that I won't be coming up with anything novel or new in terms of shape. I just want to get away from blatantly using someone else's pattern, even if it was published in a "How to" book. I'm kind of leaning towards a Coke-bottle profile for the next one. Yep, slip-joint is a catch-all for for most forms of non-locking knives with a back spring. THink old-school Case knives, swiss army knives, barlow, etc...
  24. Thanks guys. I've made 5 of these in the last few months. Each one is a little more refined than the last, but there are still plenty of warts to deal with. Another dozen or two and I might be happy Other than the overall scale and handle material, I haven't changed the esthetic design at all. I've been focusing on tweaking the design of the pivot pin and bushing to get a nice "Snappy" action while still getting a good enough peen on the pivot that the pins disappear. I'm feeling pretty good about where I am at with all of that for now, so I hope to move on to my own design next.
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