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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by rhitee93

  1. I love your work, and this video is no different. Looking forward to more. You scared me a bit with your cutting tests at around 20 seconds. I filleted my little finger from the tip to the bottom knuckle a few years ago because I lost track of where my hand was when slashing with a knife. If you ever go to cutting competitions you'll often see spectators shouting to remind contestants to put their off hand in a back pocket. Take this FWIW. I'm not a safety guru or anything
  2. I haven't thought about that knife in a while I've been thinking about a folder for some of my father's cremains for a while now, but haven't made anything yet. My folders are all traditional looking slip-joints. Many would say boring or old fashioned. Feel free to shoot me a PM if that is something you might like. It might just get me off the dime on designing something.
  3. Just had to dress the points on an old tiller last week. The last car I had to do that with was a '72 Spitfire, but I was still driving that car until 6 years ago.
  4. There isn't an "Easy" way that I know of. Wrap the abrasive paper around something with a sharp corner, drag it down the face of the plunge, and then straight out towards the tip of the blade is one smooth movement. Resist the urge to rub "up and down" the plunge line from spine to belly because it makes even more scratches to get out. Plastic door shims make for a nice thing to wrap the paper around. Sometimes I loose patience, and jamb the paper into the corner with a push stroke from further out on the blade. This works pretty well too, but makes J swirls that you have to sand out later. Because you are using such a small area of the paper, you have to keep moving to a fresh section every few strokes. I find it helps to sand that area first. Once you get it to where you like it for a particular grit, sand the rest of the blade to the same grit level.
  5. If it your first folder, then I would suggest starting with a simple slip-joint. Steve Culver has a great book on designing the mechanism for a slip-joint. The book comes with a template you can use as well. If you truly want a "Flipper", then you are probably looking for a liner lock design. However, I can't offer any guidance on designing one of those.
  6. I think Glenn was suggesting those as sources of pin material, not as a wrap. Opinions vary on this, but I use the epoxy to seal the space between the tang and the handle material, and to hold the handle together until I get pins in. I always have rivets or peened pins to create a mechanical connection. On chef's knives, which I expect to get wet frequently, I use cutler's rivets. However, the handle has to be mostly shaped before they go in because you don't get nearly as much room to shape the head of the rivet as you would with a corby bolt. I epoxy on the scales, and do 90% of the shaping before counter-boring for the cutler's rivets.
  7. I still pay a few bucks a month to keep my old land line, although it is really VOIP now. That is the phone number I hand out anytime I am required to give one. As a result, all of the spam and robo calls go there. The phone ringer is off.
  8. Lol, thanks Daswulf. It's already been gifted to a friend
  9. This is a test blade for a mosaic pattern I was working on that will be appropriately scaled for pocket knives. It came out OK for a prototype...
  10. I hear you about fuel usage. lately I've been stacking up my welding projects until I have enough work to justify getting the forge up to temp. Still kind of a bummer to let things cool down.
  11. I pretty much stopped using flux a couple of years ago. I'll still crawl back to it for something with a complex geometry where I can't get it welded before I have oxidation issues, but none of my pattern welded billets get fluxed anymore. The kerosene dunk in not necessary if your forge environment is correct. It is not a flux, and the only benefit it brings is using up any oxygen that might have been trapped inside your stack before it has time to oxidize your steel. What you are fighting after your first weld was the forge scale that formed on the outside of your billet. In my opinion, the only way to get that to weld again without flux is to allow it to cool, and grind the mating surfaces clean.
  12. I like to use cutler's rivets for some knives. The price varies by size, but is right around your price point. Various knife making suppliers have them.
  13. Oh, there are a nbumber of my folders out there in daily carry situations. My personal knife has held up better than the last 3 commercial pocket knives I had. (I'm a confessed knife abuser) A good pattern welded blade will hold up just fine. It won't improve performance, but if it's done right, it can perform just as well.
  14. George, IMHO, pattern welding is purely aesthetic these days. I don't think I can forge weld together anything that would outperform most (or any) of the modern steels that are available. I just like making pattern welded steel I make my own rivets from either stainless or nickel silver stock depending on the knife. I just hold the round stock in a 5C collet, and form a head with a tiny ball-peen hammer. Then I cut the rivet to length and peen it in place. I think I have some pics somewhere of the process if you want, but it may take a while to dig them up. I've gravitated towards 1075 for the springs, although I have dabbled with some in S35VN when I made some stainless blades.
  15. Hmm. I'm as skeptical of miracle coatings as the next guy, but if it works as well as you have been lead to believe I could see it as a way to protect the surface finish on more expensive chef's knives. I kind of hate having to tell customers to "Allow the beautiful patina to grow" on a pattern welded kitchen knife that I have many hours of hand polish work on, and that they pay several hundred dollars for. There might be room for a ~$100 coating option on a $1k knife. Do you have any idea how it affects the sharpening process? I'd assume that once you get through it the coating would flake off easily as the steel underneath is honed away. If so it wouldn't cause much problem, ut you would have to get through the coating to put on the initial edge.
  16. If your oven temperature checks out OK, and you are sure that they didn't get over the setpoint as the oven was warming up, then you are probably OK. The oxide colors are not a great means of judging the temperature the steel reached. A lot can effect them other than the actual temperature.
  17. Hmm, I recently posted that last few knives I finished, but here are a pair of folders I did just before those. One is nearly done in the pic, and the other is still in the assembly phase so the parts are still a bit rough. I took the pic mostly to document the parts I used. The blades are mosaic pattern welded 1095/15N20. The bolsters are nickel/copper mokume gane. Scales are jigged bone. These took me a bit more than 3 hours
  18. Do you have a store that caters to the R/C car and plane crowd nearby? Every local hobby shop in my part of the world has brass tubing, and rod stock up to 1/4" as well as sheet stock up to 0.032".
  19. It's been a while since I have shared anything with y'all so I thought I'd post some pics of a few pieces I finished up recently. This first one is an interesting little EDC/Utility knife made for someone who had very specific design requests. The overall shape may not be everybody's cup of tea, but after sending several sketches back and forth, this is what they really wanted. In the end they were thrilled. The blade is san-mai with 304SS over W1. The bolsters are nickel silver, and the wood is from a piece of spalted persimmon that the customer provided that I then stabilized. The next is a mosaic chef's knife. The blade is 10" long, 2.25" high at the heel, and made from 15N20 and 1084. The handle material is from a very old hickory tree on the customer's family farm. He brought me a board from a limb of the tree. (The board was a 2"x8" that was several feet long so it must be quite a tree!) I managed to find some interesting scale material in a crotch section that I then stabilized. The last piece is just an art piece I did for giggles. It is sort of a miniature Viking era sword. The blade is made from a go-mai billet with cable on the outside surfaces to sort of mimic the look of wrought iron. The fittings were my first attempts at investment casting bronze.
  20. That kitchen blade you reference a pic of looks like it has stainless outer layers. That is one way to get the really "far out" looking migration patterns. I've done quite a few of these using both 304 and 416 outer layers with 1084 and W2 inner material. It's not an easy thing to do, but there are a lot of descriptions out there on the interweb if you're up for the challenge. It's hard to get the broad transition zone with a without using stainless steel. 15N20 with a 1084 core will give you a lot of contrast, but it will be a sharp transition between the two materials.
  21. "Cheap" and "Epoxy" are not usually found together. I use G-Flex from West Systems, but some other makers that I look up to have stopped using it in favor of Acraglas which is a rifle bedding epoxy. Just remember even really great epoxy isn't a substitute for a well executed glue joint design.
  22. Thanks guys. Wow, it's been a year since I made that knife. I kind of cringe to look at it now. It's funny how that works. I've spent most of the last year working on slipjoints, and have worked up a couple designs of my own to get away from using Steve's pattern. I've also been tweaking my process for fitting the pivot and busing so that I get a good solid peen on the pivot, but a nice snappy action at the same time. I'll try to gather up some photos and post them here along with some of what I have learned about building them. I've been kind of lame about not posting any work for a while...
  23. I'd have written them a check for 10 cents just so they have to deal with keeping track of the positive balance. You guys have me thinking about the starry/constellation mosaic theme... ...it's dangerous to get me thinking. To the OP, I think it is a nice honest knife. I would have taken the grind up higher for a kitchen knife, and gone to a finer grit on the "bevels", but that is only my preference.
  24. I guess you could do that. (Well, I probably couldn't) You'd have to weld on the edge steel afterwards, but that would have been the norm for much of history
  25. The color is only an indication of what temperature the surface of the steel go to. (not a very good indicator by the way) It does not indicate anything about how complete the tempering process is. Generally speaking, you'll want more than one temper cycle regardless of what color the steel turns. There are numerous descriptions of the changes that happen to the structure of the steel around here that would explain it better than I can. Edit: Oops, sorry, I just realized this is an older thread.
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