rhitee93

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About rhitee93

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    Male
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    West Central Indiana
  • Interests
    Just about anything that uses my hands

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  1. I guess you could do that. (Well, I probably couldn't) You'd have to weld on the edge steel afterwards, but that would have been the norm for much of history
  2. The color is only an indication of what temperature the surface of the steel go to. (not a very good indicator by the way) It does not indicate anything about how complete the tempering process is. Generally speaking, you'll want more than one temper cycle regardless of what color the steel turns. There are numerous descriptions of the changes that happen to the structure of the steel around here that would explain it better than I can. Edit: Oops, sorry, I just realized this is an older thread.
  3. It's easier with top and bottom tooling, but it can also be done half-on the anvil edge. There is a guy in Poland that does some fantastic reproductions of Germanic spear points with central ribs. He does all of his work with just a hammer and anvil. I suspect the answer you don't want to hear is that you don't forge the rib, you forge everything else away from it.
  4. Mr Powers made me think more. "Yellow" is subjective, but it is where I weld high carbon steel at. (about 2200F) However, I can't weld mild steel at temps that low, and I wouldn't have said any of the samples in your video indicated high carbon content.
  5. RToons - This is a bit of a thread hijack, but I'll give you a quick response. Some steels have alloying ingredients that make them very difficult to forge weld. Your prep and approach sound pretty good. Since you don't really know what those steels are, I suspect the alloys are your problem.
  6. Wow, had to go back and look at the 3V datasheet again. That stuff tempers much higher than S35VN. Based on what you have said, I can't help but wonder if you are right about it being a lower alloy steel. Does it rust if you leave a drop of water on it overnight?
  7. I've not used 3V, but have dabbled with S35VN recently with decent results. The data sheets look similar in process, although the temps are different. What temp did you decide to quench from? What temper temp did you use?
  8. Something has reacted with it, but you may never know what. I don't like to stick tape on my blades for any operation where they get wet because this sort of things always seems to happen. (I am assuming you are wet sanding) When I get up to the higher grits, and need to flip the blade, I just wipe down the surface of the board I have the blade on, and fold up a clean piece of paper towel to lay between the blade and the board. I also used glass cleaner rather than water when sanding. It doesn't cause rust as fast.
  9. Wow, I haven't seen an old Shop Smith in a long time. I remember those infomercials on saturday mornings in the late 70's. (before infomercial was a word) The knife shows some improvement over the first. Fit and finish are pretty rough, but you knew that already. Focus on one aspect of your next one and make that aspect as good as you can. Do that each time, and you'll make good progress. I suspect you are shaping your handles on that 1x30. I've messed up more handles with a belt grinder than I care to admit. I do most of my handle shaping with rasps and files now. It goes pretty quickly, and allows for much finer control. You might consider giving that a try.
  10. Look for Steve Culver's book on the subject. It'll tell you everything you need to get started.
  11. Thanks for the kind words guys. Anachronist58, we are all just hacks in our own right. The guys that start with dirt (ore) and make blades are the true masters. Mason, Here are the parts shortly before final assembly. The pins in this pic were just fit-up pins. I cut new nickel silver ones for the final assembly. Here is an earlier shot that shows the interaction of the parts:
  12. I can't give you any advice on micarta as I don't mess with it much, but I wanted to say your knife shows a lot of promise. One suggestion, and take it for what it's worth, is to take your bevels up much higher. I would have run the bevel up a little more than twice as high as you did at the heel and run it out perpendicular to the plunge line until it broke out on the spine of the knife. (Ok, that probably isn't as clear to you after you read it as it is in my head when I wrote it ) My opinion is worth exactly what you are paying for it, but I feel that gives you a better performing knife as well as a better looking one. Keep it up! That level of fit and finish on a second knife is rather rare, and shows that you are not afraid to put in the work it takes to get good at this.
  13. I finally went ahead and sketched up my own slip-joint design. I like the old Fiddle-back or Coke Bottle style knives, so that is the aesthetic I was after. This is the prototype, and mechanically, the action turned out pretty good. I might go for a few thousandths more spring preload in the next one, but not enough to really change the design of the parts. I'm going to reduce the diameter of the pins and move them in a bit on the next one. These are 3/32" pins, and look a bit too large after being peened. I might try 1/16" pins on the next attempt. The blade is 2.5" overall and a two bar twist of crushed W's in 1095 and 15N20. The scales are jigged bone with nickel silver bolsters and mild steel liners. I made this one just to prove out the design, but it turned out well enough I'll let it out into the wild.
  14. They guys aren't kidding about the beryllium copper thing. I forget the actual number but it's something like 30% of people are sensitive enough that a low level of exposure to inhaling the dust is fatal.