rhitee93

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About rhitee93

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Central Indiana
  • Interests
    Just about anything that uses my hands

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  1. rhitee93

    1st attempt at Mosaic Damascus

    Nice pattern
  2. rhitee93

    Funeral piece. Scottish Dirk. Lots of pics.

    Ya did good.
  3. rhitee93

    Mosaic Chef's Knife

    It's a mosaic, so layer count sort of loses meaning. The initial bar was 45 layered before being crushed to make the W's. That bar was quartered and restacked with some additional 15N20 between each piece. The resulting bar was quartered and 4-way welded with several additional pieces of 1095 and 15N20. This last addition of steel creates the bold "X" shape you can see. This bar was then quartered and 4-way welded again. All of this creates the pattern I was after on the end grain of the bar. The final bar was cut into 3/4" thick tiles that were welded on edge (Commonly called a Ferry flip) to create a bar that I could forge the blade from. OK, that was a horrible explanation. Here is a pic of the first 4-way weld. It might help make it a little more clear. Here is another of the tile cuts:
  4. rhitee93

    Mosaic Chef's Knife

    Thanks guys. I got some final pics taken this weekend, and then got it sharpened. It works pretty well for chopping up veg.
  5. rhitee93

    Mosaic Chef's Knife

    I need to do a few final touch ups, and still hope to take some nice pics of this one, but wanted to share a quick snapshot of my latest project. I got bit by the mosaic fever bug. This is my second attempt at it. I had a little trouble with it getting crooked while squaring on the bias with one of the weld passes, but it turned out pretty neat none the less. The blade is comprised of 1095 and 15N20. It's about 7" long, 1.75" high at the heel, and 0.15" thich at the spine above the heel. Flat grind down to 0.005" at the edge before sharpening. (Which I haven't done yet) The handle is made from stabilized box wood burl and brass. I have the usual small collection of fit and finish issues, but i t turned out pretty good. Some day I'll make a perfect knife...
  6. rhitee93

    My latest pattern welded attempt

    I'd call that a win. What did you use to make the center cut? The only nit-pick I'd throw out is that the handle doesn't quite live up to the steel. Great looking piece of work none the less.
  7. rhitee93

    Kind of disappointed with this one.

    That is perhaps the best quote I have seen on this board...
  8. rhitee93

    One more pattern welded this time with file work

    Yep, get your grind up higher, and I think you'll like where that takes you. I would also suggest some distal taper as well. That is a well developed pattern, and the finish on the blade looks good. Your leather work is quite good!
  9. rhitee93

    First Pattern Welded Knife

    I need to play with aqua fortis. I love that look. You'll find your grind referred to as a "Noob grind" in some circles. Many commercially made knives are ground like that, so it is understandable why people start there. Below is a pic of a similar blade I did a while ago, but the grind goes almost all the way to the spine. If you look closely, you'll see that most makers have grinds more along these lines. What part of northern Indiana are you in?
  10. rhitee93

    First Pattern Welded Knife

    The steel looks good. Not washed out or muddy looking like a lot of early pattern welding attempts. The grinding and fit and finish will come along with practice. I'd encourage you to take the grind higher up the side of the blade. That a great piece of curly maple. Did you do an aqua fortis finish on it?
  11. rhitee93

    Dabbling with mosaic patterns

    Lol Thomas. I am a horrible knife abuser. It'll be interesting to see how long it takes me to tear this one up.
  12. rhitee93

    Dabbling with mosaic patterns

    Thanks Daswulf. It isn't so much of a trust things as a quality thing. I did have some concerns about welds at one point, but those turned out to be unfounded. There are a couple of small could shuts on the spine that won't be a structural issue, but I think are unsightly. The bigger issues are that since this was an experiment, I figured I would double down and try some hollow grinding. I don't do this very often, and am not good at it. As a result, the quality of the grind is pretty bad. (It looks better in the pic than in person) I also made a major rookie goof in building the mosaic pattern that I just wouldn't let out of my shop. It'll make a nice EDC weekend knife for me. It will also be nice to use some of my pattern welded steel for a while to see how it holds up. Unfortunately, most of my knifes just get looked at, and not really used so this will be a good data point
  13. rhitee93

    Dabbling with mosaic patterns

    I've been wanting to try some mosaic pattern welding lately, and gave it a go. I made quite a few mistakes, and had a number of major problems along the way. This was never going to be a knife I would sell or let into the general population, but in the end I decided to slap on a simple handle and make it my new "Beater knife" I'm glad I went for it, and this won't be my last mosaic attempt. It's kind of addictive. This started as 11 alternating layers of 1095 and 15N20 that was stacked and rewelded. Additional 15N20 was inserted after making some crushed W's. Then I did a 4-way weld, but screwed up the orientation somehow. After that it was just a "Ferry flip" and I had a bar to work with. The balde is 4.5" with an OAL of about 9.5". I'll do better on the next one
  14. rhitee93

    Making gravers

    I suspect this is the tutorial that Tom was referring to: https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/24166-simple-engraving-for-knifemakers/ It is quite informative.
  15. rhitee93

    Third damascus project - chef’s knife

    Here is a pic of the forged in "Fullers" for a recent ladder pattern I did. I have used both the cut and then forge, and the forge and then cut approaches, and prefer the latter. Between the ratio of the fuller depth to the bar thickness, the fuller radius, the center to center spacing of the ridges, and the layer count, there are enough variables to spend years experimenting with. One tip is to forge the distal taper into your pre-form before laddering. That way to don't get a lot of distortion in the laddered pattern by forging it in later. IMO, laddering looks the best if you grind the bevels in rather than forging. Here is the same blade mid-polish to give you an idea what the pattern looked like. This was 275 layers initially.