rhitee93

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About rhitee93

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Central Indiana
  • Interests
    Just about anything that uses my hands

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  1. EDM stones were all the rage a few years ago, but people seem to have drifted back to Rhynowet paper. I still use them sometimes when I am working hard to preserve a crisp corner, or trying to polish some strange crevice that is too awkward for paper. However, I find the abrasive paper to be faster than anything I have tried. Nobody likes hand finishing, but it is what separates the rest from the best.
  2. It's a mosaic, so layer count sort of loses meaning. The initial bar was 45 layered before being crushed to make the W's. That bar was quartered and restacked with some additional 15N20 between each piece. The resulting bar was quartered and 4-way welded with several additional pieces of 1095 and 15N20. This last addition of steel creates the bold "X" shape you can see. This bar was then quartered and 4-way welded again. All of this creates the pattern I was after on the end grain of the bar. The final bar was cut into 3/4" thick tiles that were welded on edge (Commonly called a Ferry flip) to create a bar that I could forge the blade from. OK, that was a horrible explanation. Here is a pic of the first 4-way weld. It might help make it a little more clear. Here is another of the tile cuts:
  3. Thanks guys. I got some final pics taken this weekend, and then got it sharpened. It works pretty well for chopping up veg.
  4. I need to do a few final touch ups, and still hope to take some nice pics of this one, but wanted to share a quick snapshot of my latest project. I got bit by the mosaic fever bug. This is my second attempt at it. I had a little trouble with it getting crooked while squaring on the bias with one of the weld passes, but it turned out pretty neat none the less. The blade is comprised of 1095 and 15N20. It's about 7" long, 1.75" high at the heel, and 0.15" thich at the spine above the heel. Flat grind down to 0.005" at the edge before sharpening. (Which I haven't done yet) The handle is made from stabilized box wood burl and brass. I have the usual small collection of fit and finish issues, but i t turned out pretty good. Some day I'll make a perfect knife...
  5. I'd call that a win. What did you use to make the center cut? The only nit-pick I'd throw out is that the handle doesn't quite live up to the steel. Great looking piece of work none the less.
  6. That is perhaps the best quote I have seen on this board...
  7. Yep, get your grind up higher, and I think you'll like where that takes you. I would also suggest some distal taper as well. That is a well developed pattern, and the finish on the blade looks good. Your leather work is quite good!
  8. I need to play with aqua fortis. I love that look. You'll find your grind referred to as a "Noob grind" in some circles. Many commercially made knives are ground like that, so it is understandable why people start there. Below is a pic of a similar blade I did a while ago, but the grind goes almost all the way to the spine. If you look closely, you'll see that most makers have grinds more along these lines. What part of northern Indiana are you in?
  9. The steel looks good. Not washed out or muddy looking like a lot of early pattern welding attempts. The grinding and fit and finish will come along with practice. I'd encourage you to take the grind higher up the side of the blade. That a great piece of curly maple. Did you do an aqua fortis finish on it?
  10. Lol Thomas. I am a horrible knife abuser. It'll be interesting to see how long it takes me to tear this one up.
  11. Thanks Daswulf. It isn't so much of a trust things as a quality thing. I did have some concerns about welds at one point, but those turned out to be unfounded. There are a couple of small could shuts on the spine that won't be a structural issue, but I think are unsightly. The bigger issues are that since this was an experiment, I figured I would double down and try some hollow grinding. I don't do this very often, and am not good at it. As a result, the quality of the grind is pretty bad. (It looks better in the pic than in person) I also made a major rookie goof in building the mosaic pattern that I just wouldn't let out of my shop. It'll make a nice EDC weekend knife for me. It will also be nice to use some of my pattern welded steel for a while to see how it holds up. Unfortunately, most of my knifes just get looked at, and not really used so this will be a good data point
  12. I've been wanting to try some mosaic pattern welding lately, and gave it a go. I made quite a few mistakes, and had a number of major problems along the way. This was never going to be a knife I would sell or let into the general population, but in the end I decided to slap on a simple handle and make it my new "Beater knife" I'm glad I went for it, and this won't be my last mosaic attempt. It's kind of addictive. This started as 11 alternating layers of 1095 and 15N20 that was stacked and rewelded. Additional 15N20 was inserted after making some crushed W's. Then I did a 4-way weld, but screwed up the orientation somehow. After that it was just a "Ferry flip" and I had a bar to work with. The balde is 4.5" with an OAL of about 9.5". I'll do better on the next one
  13. I suspect this is the tutorial that Tom was referring to: https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/24166-simple-engraving-for-knifemakers/ It is quite informative.