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I Forge Iron


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About rhitee93

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    West Central Indiana
  • Interests
    Just about anything that uses my hands

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  1. I still pay a few bucks a month to keep my old land line, although it is really VOIP now. That is the phone number I hand out anytime I am required to give one. As a result, all of the spam and robo calls go there. The phone ringer is off.
  2. Lol, thanks Daswulf. It's already been gifted to a friend
  3. This is a test blade for a mosaic pattern I was working on that will be appropriately scaled for pocket knives. It came out OK for a prototype...
  4. I hear you about fuel usage. lately I've been stacking up my welding projects until I have enough work to justify getting the forge up to temp. Still kind of a bummer to let things cool down.
  5. I pretty much stopped using flux a couple of years ago. I'll still crawl back to it for something with a complex geometry where I can't get it welded before I have oxidation issues, but none of my pattern welded billets get fluxed anymore. The kerosene dunk in not necessary if your forge environment is correct. It is not a flux, and the only benefit it brings is using up any oxygen that might have been trapped inside your stack before it has time to oxidize your steel. What you are fighting after your first weld was the forge scale that formed on the outside of your billet. In my
  6. I like to use cutler's rivets for some knives. The price varies by size, but is right around your price point. Various knife making suppliers have them.
  7. Oh, there are a nbumber of my folders out there in daily carry situations. My personal knife has held up better than the last 3 commercial pocket knives I had. (I'm a confessed knife abuser) A good pattern welded blade will hold up just fine. It won't improve performance, but if it's done right, it can perform just as well.
  8. George, IMHO, pattern welding is purely aesthetic these days. I don't think I can forge weld together anything that would outperform most (or any) of the modern steels that are available. I just like making pattern welded steel I make my own rivets from either stainless or nickel silver stock depending on the knife. I just hold the round stock in a 5C collet, and form a head with a tiny ball-peen hammer. Then I cut the rivet to length and peen it in place. I think I have some pics somewhere of the process if you want, but it may take a while to dig them up. I've gravitated towa
  9. Hmm. I'm as skeptical of miracle coatings as the next guy, but if it works as well as you have been lead to believe I could see it as a way to protect the surface finish on more expensive chef's knives. I kind of hate having to tell customers to "Allow the beautiful patina to grow" on a pattern welded kitchen knife that I have many hours of hand polish work on, and that they pay several hundred dollars for. There might be room for a ~$100 coating option on a $1k knife. Do you have any idea how it affects the sharpening process? I'd assume that once you get through it the coating
  10. If your oven temperature checks out OK, and you are sure that they didn't get over the setpoint as the oven was warming up, then you are probably OK. The oxide colors are not a great means of judging the temperature the steel reached. A lot can effect them other than the actual temperature.
  11. Hmm, I recently posted that last few knives I finished, but here are a pair of folders I did just before those. One is nearly done in the pic, and the other is still in the assembly phase so the parts are still a bit rough. I took the pic mostly to document the parts I used. The blades are mosaic pattern welded 1095/15N20. The bolsters are nickel/copper mokume gane. Scales are jigged bone. These took me a bit more than 3 hours
  12. Do you have a store that caters to the R/C car and plane crowd nearby? Every local hobby shop in my part of the world has brass tubing, and rod stock up to 1/4" as well as sheet stock up to 0.032".
  13. It's been a while since I have shared anything with y'all so I thought I'd post some pics of a few pieces I finished up recently. This first one is an interesting little EDC/Utility knife made for someone who had very specific design requests. The overall shape may not be everybody's cup of tea, but after sending several sketches back and forth, this is what they really wanted. In the end they were thrilled. The blade is san-mai with 304SS over W1. The bolsters are nickel silver, and the wood is from a piece of spalted persimmon that the customer provided that I then stabilized.
  14. That kitchen blade you reference a pic of looks like it has stainless outer layers. That is one way to get the really "far out" looking migration patterns. I've done quite a few of these using both 304 and 416 outer layers with 1084 and W2 inner material. It's not an easy thing to do, but there are a lot of descriptions out there on the interweb if you're up for the challenge. It's hard to get the broad transition zone with a without using stainless steel. 15N20 with a 1084 core will give you a lot of contrast, but it will be a sharp transition between the two materials.
  15. "Cheap" and "Epoxy" are not usually found together. I use G-Flex from West Systems, but some other makers that I look up to have stopped using it in favor of Acraglas which is a rifle bedding epoxy. Just remember even really great epoxy isn't a substitute for a well executed glue joint design.
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