remist17 Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 I have an opportunity to tack onto our companies steel order. I can order whatever steel I need and the vendor will bundle my order separate from the companies, they only need to know what material codes I want, size and length. I have read a lot of posts here and saw many descriptions of what steel we can use (tie rod ends, coil spring, leaf springs etc). Can you please help with the ASTM numbers that work for Blacksmithing? I came up with this list:1080/1084/1095/1040/1045/1030/5160/1018/ Does it matter hot or cold rolled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 hot/cold rolled in a process. You will find cold rolled costs more, and after it gets hot in the forge is the same as hot rolled anyway. 1018 is good for general smithing. 1084 for blades. I use 1045 for many anvil tools and stake anvils as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 What do you want to make?For most decorative forged work hot rolled mild steel is fine. In the UK it is often referred to as merchant bar or general merchant quality. It is for non critical structures and uses.If you are wanting tougher or harder stuff for edge tools or critical structural elements do not trust a response from the internet without further research.Maybe ask your supplier's advice?Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 (edited) Im looking for general steel for use on crafts no tooling. I was looking towards 1018 as it is only $1.00 for a three foot section. What about A36 steel, this came up as hot rolled. The 1018 is cold rolled. Edited August 3, 2015 by remist17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 A36 is a good general purpose steel for what we do. It's mild steel so it's not good for edge retention and tooling but for bottle openers, tongs, gates, hinges, etc. it'll work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 (edited) Well A36 is not what I would call "mild steel" but is often sold as such. Things like 1018 have a fairly strict content spec: 18 points carbon and nothing above tramp elements save for Iron and Manganese; A-36 is a yield strength spec---36 Kpsi and it can have a much more variable content. However it's cheap and so that is what most of use/get. Some folks spring for the real 1018 if they have a project where they really need to depend on the forgability. I've had A36 that was a joy to forge and A36 that was good only for tentstakes. Edited August 3, 2015 by ThomasPowers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 So I have the option to purchase material certified 1018 or A36. I was looking at the .25"x.50" stock that is 3 feet long. The price for the 1018 is $2.00 a stick and A36 is $1.00 a stick. Would you lean more to one over the other. I am making the typical beginners projects, tongs, hooks etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Ask what they charge for a 20' stick and compare the price. Maybe find out what he price per lb. is for cut lengths compared to full sticks is. There IS a cutting charge and that usually makes the difference. If they want to charge you to cut a stick to a size that fits what you drive a hack saw will cut .25"x.5" in about 30 seconds.So, figure $2.00 x six per stick (in the trade a "stick" is a full length from the mill usually 20') so a full stick should run $12.00 or less. I don't know what you drive but I was able to put 6' lengths in our old Saturn sedan without trouble and if you ask the guys in the yard they'll almost always cut a stick in 2-3 pieces to haul gratis. If you ask the people at the counter when you order they HAVE to charge you so I keep quiet and carry a hack saw just in case.I've only had to start cutting a length with my hack saw in their loading dock once in 40 years but that's here, no telling what your steel yard rules, formal and informal, are like.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 If you ask the people at the counter when you order they HAVE to charge you so I keep quiet and carry a hack saw just in case.I've only had to start cutting a length with my hack saw in their loading dock once in 40 years but that's here, no telling what your steel yard rules, formal and informal, are like.Frosty The Lucky.Maybe we have nicer people at the counters here! The reception girl at my steel supplier always tells the boys to cut 6m lengths in half for me to put them in my Landcruiser, and they never charge cutting fees.Just lucky I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Maybe we have nicer people at the counters here! The reception girl at my steel supplier always tells the boys to cut 6m lengths in half for me to put them in my Landcruiser, and they never charge cutting fees.Just lucky I guess.Depends on who you talk to at the counter I guess. It got to where the folk up front couldn't talk with folk out back unless it was on the invoice. I think the bean counters were taking over by then. At the place out here in the Valley I buy from the guy at the counter walks out the door, pulls and cuts stock while talking. I haven't been to the place I used to buy from in Anchorage, last I stopped by most of the guys I knew had retired.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 I guess I did not explain right. I can get three ft of 1018 for 2 dollars total. Also A36 three feet for $1. So I am looking at a $3 billIs this a good deal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 It is certainly a fair price but I wouldn't bother with cold finished for general forging. A-36 should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 Great thank you all. Ill be putting the order in for A36, Im still trying to figure out if I can make my punches our buy them. Once I figure that I will put my order in. Thank you all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 I'd suggest learnin how to make them. Basically there is nothin more than a smooth taper on the end of your stock. Just to be sure, you do realize you need some kind of high carbon for a puch, right? I made my first ones recently at a local meeting and used coil spring to make them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 (edited) Can you tell me what the most "common" size of metal are? I know many of you use re-purposed metal. But if you had the opportunity to secure new metal stock what sizes would it be. I was thinking 0.50" Sq, 0.25" Sq, .375x.875" and some .25 & .375 round stock.Also what is the common stock for tongs?Thanks Edited August 6, 2015 by remist17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 Forbidden again! IPS!The local supplier carries most if not all common stock. My preference is 3/8" sq. hot rolled. next is 1/2" sq. hot rolled. I use 3/8"x3/4" and 1/2"x1" strip stock but not as often. You will find that 3/8" sq and 1/2" round. are almost exactly the same volume per linear inch so buying both isn't necessary unless a specific shape stock is predominant.For example If I'm making plant hooks with a twist, a leaf or paw print wall finial. I use sq. On the other hand if someone wants round garden furniture that's what I buy. Unless it's a small piece squaring up the round or rounding up the square is wasted time, effort and fuel.What makes 3/8" sq. my favorite stock is it's the largest I can move by hand easily so the finished pieces have nice weight, there's plenty to form into various shapes and I don't kill myself forging excess steel.Remember if you double the dimension you are going to have to expend 4x the effort and fuel for the same process.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 ok thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 I forgot you asked about tong stock too. I like coil spring around 1/2" rd. I can make them thinner and because it's spring stock they're stronger for the weight so I don't have to hold as heavy a tool nor squeeze as hard.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 (edited) Can you tell me what the most "common" size of metal are? I know many of you use re-purposed metal. But if you had the opportunity to secure new metal stock what sizes would it be. I was thinking 0.50" Sq, 0.25" Sq, .375x.875" and some .25 & .375 round stock.Also what is the common stock for tongs?Thanks I find it difficult to answer your question…depends on your tools and projects.When the forge was hand and foot powered I used to look at 25mm (1") square on the rack and think it represented a lot of hard work. As tooling and projects grew I surprised myself one day by kicking a bit of wire under the bench that I had used as a trial piece in some new press tools and suddenly realised that my perceptions had altered hugely…the bit of wire was 1" square!Yesterday I was forging down a bit of rusty 100mm x 50mm (4" x 2") to see what the pitting would look like for an armour bright finished fender.Common size for tongs depends on what you need to hold on to. I agree with Frosty the lighter the better... which is why these have only Ø32mm (Ø1 1/4") reins.Clifton Ralph told me they only have to be big enough to hold you on the end of the work piece, not the other way around... Alan Edited August 7, 2015 by Alan Evans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 Wow, Alan life must be treating you well, maybe it's the water , anyway you are looking fantastic and so forever young! Have you been quaffing Cliff Richard's wine? Great pic BTW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 Oh come on now you can see he's only working the small stuff now---just look at those tongs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 maybe he is my size and the tongs are normal sized Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 don't worry once the dwarf press is done we can draw you out a bit. Shoot my Dr would be a lot more happy with me if I was 2 meters tall at the same weight... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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