Jbradshaw Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 This thread has been tremendously useful to me. I had the same questions about A36 vs. 1018. And also wasn't sure what would be good diameter rods to start working with. Mo do have one question though. Just to make sure I understand correctly. Frosty are you stating above that you like to use automobile coil springs to make tongs out of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Well I went farm hoping today and visited all the in laws. I secured two coil springs from a unknown car. One leaf spring from a 1990 Chevy pickup, two tie rod ends from a John Deere 4020. Solid PTO shaft that is .75"x.75", a old disc brake from a 1 ton truck and some misc flat stock unknown origin. I made a fire poker this weekend and it came out ok. I can at least move the coal around now. Put a old propane heater blower motor on the forge and found out it moved to much air. I went to the supply store to buy a gate valve and fell down when I saw the price. So I made my own "valve" with a slide gate. At the lowest position the forge works fine. So I think I am on my way.Thanks to all again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Yes, I like making tongs from coil spring, I'm too cheap to buy 4140 like MetalMangler does. There is a thing to watch out for using steels with enough carbon to harden, you either have to keep them well below red heat or let them cool on the floor. Quench them too close to critical and you can make them brittle enough to snap off next time you pick something up or drop them.Spring lets you make them thinner and still be plenty strong so they're lighter and less likely to bed under hard squeezing. Springy tong reins work really well with a clip too.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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