Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About remist17

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    South PA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I would like to start making my first hawk this weekend. I was able to source some 3/4"x3/4" 1080 steel that I plan on using. Can someone tell me what they would recommend tempering this to? I plan on working the shape and when done heat to nonmagnetic, quench in canola oil, temper at 400F for 1 hour two cycles. Not sure if this is right for a tomahawk. Thanks
  2. Thanks all. I post some this weekend when I have it mounted.
  3. The ball bearing is missing a few balls. There are spaces in the bearing set. I agree it does not look worn and is more dirty than anything. The photos are right off the back of my truck after getting home with it. Here are two more photos. One of the chuck and the other from the upper arm. It looks like the arm rides a cam and advances the drill somehow. Not sure how it works. It cleaned up nice. I did not take it all apart just a little WD40 and a shop vac. Emery cloth to the shaft to get some surface pitting. I will take photos later and post. thanks
  4. I recently was given a Champion blower and forge drill press model 101. It seems to be missing the handle on the one side. The ball bearing in the top seems to be worn. Can someone point me to a site or may have the tear down procedures for this model? I would like to clean it up and see if I can get it working ok. The chuck seems to be a add on and not original, currently not working correctly either. What is the best way to source parts for this model? I will try and post some other photos later.
  5. Thanks all. I understand. I am starting to like the RR track on end more and more I use it. It would be a pain if I was doing larger projects but for knives, hawks, and little odds and ends it is working fine. My wife reminded me of the bigger picture and that is starting to save for college for daughter.
  6. I have gone to 9 auctions this summer for equipment. Every time I get outbid by antique dealers. I was able to get three hard tools at one auction which I was happy with. The anvils are just crazy pricey. I have asked the group I belong to list my contact information and told all the old-timers at work I am looking. could you please elaborate on the portable hole. thanks
  7. I have been searching for a beginning anvil in my area. It seems everything I find in my price range is in really bad condition. The anvils I am finding have a lot of chips off the edges and the middle is really swayed. They are looking for at least 600+. I am looking to spend under $400. I have found several Ferrier anvils that are between 70 and 112lbs for under 300 plus shipping. These are NC and Cavalry anvils. I am leaning to the 112lb Cavalry at $440 plus shipping. But if the boss (wife) does not approve the capital request probably looking at the NC anvil (70lb) at $268. If I am doin
  8. This is exactly what I was thinking on doing. The spring I have still has the shackle eye. I would burn out the rubber bushing that still in there and weld it up. I know some say it does not need to welded, but I might as well make it sturdy. Thanks again all.
  9. I have access to 1" x1" square stock in 1080. Is this too large to shape into a hawk?
  10. Got base made. I tried to drill but went through three drill bits and didn't scratch the surface. Even used oil on the drills. So to attach to base was thinking to use lags and washers washer actually securing the rail to the wood. Also ratchet strap bottom. Any other suggestions
  11. Thank you all. I just scored two hardies at a auction!!! I feel better now to start larger projects.
  12. Thank you all. I had the truck spring.I dont have material large enough on hand.
  13. My father does a lot of wood working and for Christmas I would like to make him a Froe. I am thinking about making it out of a truck leaf spring. Once I get the blade formed and the design completed. Do I heat it to non magnetic ? what do I heat treat to? I am thinking the blade should be similar to an axe temper. I use a toaster oven for my knife blanks but this may not fit in the oven and it only goes to 425F. If you could advise I would appreciate it. I am really trying to learn the heat treat process for theses steel better but find it very difficult to understand. Thanks
  • Create New...