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Hammer size??


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I had an experienced smith drop in at the historical society (blacksmith shop) for a visit and showed him about the shop. Showing off my shop equipment he made an odd comment abouit the size of the hammer I had been using. He didn't ask to see what I was making w/it. Didn't ask what I use it for, his only comment about the 2 pounder cross pein blacksmith hammer was that it was too small............

 

Thought that was a bit arrogant for him to mention. How does he know? Is it a bragging thing to claim you use such and such a size/weight of hammer???

 

Don't most folks use the correct weight of hammer for the task at hand?? I certainly do! Nobody had to tell me that! Duh!

 

I didn't want to show him up but........I use a five pounder for most all my work.

 

Yeah.

 

Right.

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Well a 2# to 2 1/2# hammer is one of my favorites for all around work.  It certainly would be too small for some things!  Most of my work that would need a hammer over 4# gets done on the power hammer.  A 2# hammer is also much too heavy for some purposes!  Disregard the comment!  Generally smiths are really nice people and this was probably just a thoughtless moment.

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I generally use the only cross peen hammer I have (probably around 2#) or some some smaller ball peens for texturing.

If it doesn't seem to be making enough progress, I hit harder!

 

I would have told him if he'd like to pass along a better one, i'd be happy to take advantage of it!

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I've used a 2 lb cross peen for many years, only just recently moved up to a 3 lb hammer for general hand work. 3 pounder is a bit much for making nails, I pull out a 2 or 2.5 lb ball peen for use with the nail header

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I have various types and sized hammers, and I try to use the lightest hammer for the job.  I don't see the logic or the common sense in using a 4 lb hammer when a 2 lb will do fine.  I may be wrong, but I think the downward force of the hammer is a crucial part of it's power and if you can impart more downward force with a small hammer, you are doing more work.  But, I could be mistaken.  I started out with nothing and still have most of it.  

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There are a numerous threads on this theme.   And it looks like there are many ways to skin a cat.   I don't have a power hammer so that isn't an option.   Most of my work therefore is 3/4" thick or less.   Preferably and usually less!   Accept when a striker is involved.    A few weeks back we straightened four 1" Allen wrench ends.   The bent ends had been cut off into fairly symmetrical 90s.   I got to be the striker.   I actually enjoy striking (12 lb hammer).   It went real well.   we straightened them babies out in about 10 minutes.   

 

But anyway...   I recall when I first started all I had was some store bought hammers.  My hammer technigue was prolly not all that great but...  what I remember is that my 3lb hammer used to wear me out.    At first...   Now, it seems like anything less than a 3lb hammer is too much work, most of the time.  Also seems best to use a full swing when dividing things up.   Hammer high, above the head, let it fall, catch the rebound, a fairly slow, deliberate, accurate cadence...

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If you've got to swing the Hammer over your head, you lose a lot of control.

 

I swing from the Elbow, ... and use as much hammer as necessary to move the material.

 

A 2.5# for "light" work, ... and a 4# pounder for most things.

 

Using the 4# Hammer, and "tapping" lightly, ... from the Wrist, ... I can do very fine work, without making Hammer marks, ... or breaking a sweat.  :P

 

 

That being said, ... one of the best Smiths I know, whales away with a 20 oz. Ball Pien, ... and turns out excellent work.  :mellow:

 

 

 

.

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Reminds me of the old saw about asking two blacksmiths a question and getting three answers. We just had a clinic by an East German blacksmith and he did everything with one hammer, every darned thing from heavy drawing to chasing details.

 

Use what you like and let the other guy use what he likes.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Part of me has often wondered if a good part of the 'big hammer' thing is very American? everything is bigger over your side of the pond after all.

I'm sure I've written very lengthy replies to this type of thread in the past but as usual Frosty has hit the nail on the head.

At the end of the day just use what you want. It's your body, you know what feels ok.

I typically use a 2.5lb hammer for most things and a 1.5lb for the really light stuff.

All the best
Andy

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Part of me has often wondered if a good part of the 'big hammer' thing is very American? everything is bigger over your side of the pond after all.

I'm sure I've written very lengthy replies to this type of thread in the past but as usual Frosty has hit the nail on the head.

At the end of the day just use what you want. It's your body, you know what feels ok.

I typically use a 2.5lb hammer for most things and a 1.5lb for the really light stuff.

All the best
Andy

Andy and Frosty have the right of it. Blacksmithing is not about swinging the heaviest hammer - it's about swinging the hammer weight that you can control comfortably and still get the job done. It's ignorant and inconsiderate comments from smiths like that guy in the original post that discourage a lot of young smiths or convince them to swing hammers way outside their comfort zone causing them to do considerate damage to themselves - both short term and long term. We need to teach better than this.

Sam

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I forge blades... mostly from 3/8" flatstock and 3/4"-1 1/8" round bar. My go to hammers are 1.5#, 2.2#, and 3.5#. I do have both larger and small hammers that get used as needed. My technique is a hybrid Hofi style but that changes depending on the work. My post anvil is set up so that when the hammer face is on the anvil face, the end of the handle is at my belly button. I swing with my palm face-down in the Hofi method. That said, I also have a larger anvil set up lower in the traditional "knuckle" height. I bounce back and forth between the two. I say, forge in the way that is most comfortable for you and that allows you to keep doing it until you're old and wise(okay, maybe just old) ... that goes for hammer size/style/weight, too.

 

Take what advice is useful to you and for the rest... just smile and wave.

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One thing I did notice watching someone using a lighter hammer and they were just wailing away.   Wailing meaning a lot of faster hits.   With a bigger hammer and a full swing you can move a lot of metal fast...  or do a lot of damage fast.   I was watching him use the light hammer and he was slowly, methodically creeping up on his final shape.   Probably going as fast as someone with a bigger hammer but with a lot more motion. 

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Just getting into the blacksmithing aspects, but been forging knives for over 10 years.  Just for blade work I've got 4 hammers that I use, all in the 1 1/2 lbs to 4 lbs range.  I've got a 5th that I don't use much anymore since getting a power hammer and press, it's a short handled 10 pound sledge.  I'm currently making a blacksmith/rounding hammer and the target weight for it is 3 1/2 pounds.

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in one of my discussions with Peter Ross he uses a 2 to 2 1/2 pound cross peen and has for years. and I do not think he is wrong for the control that he has with it and the work he accomplishes. He also has his peen ground flat. In an other case Philip Simmons used a 2# ball peen it is what he was use. I like a 3# hammer. I do have many styles that are bigger and when I go up above 3/4" in stock size I use them. I do not feel there is any set rule. It is like the lady who kid it drawn to the fire and she says o he is making horse shoes. Some people just want to feel like they have the answer.

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I use my 2 1/2 lb cross peen and my 2 1/2 lb rounding hammers for almost everything i do. What I've realized it isnt the hammers weight but technique and speed. Ive made some delicate items with those hammers and on the other end of the specrum forged out some thick billets. Who cares what he has to say anyway, if you take life to serious you will never make it out alive lol

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My favorite hammer right now is about 4.5 lbs, but I do most of my work with a power hammer and use this hand hammer for straightening and touch up. I can swing it all day, but the need for that in my shop is quite rare and I don't hesitate to change hammers as needed to suit the work. I did have occasion last night to upset some 2" square to make a hardy fuller and for that I used a 14# sledge. It was the first time I'd done any sledge work of that weight and I will say it really took a lot out of me. I did get the job done and I could really see the difference between using a big hammer like that and my regular sledge which is about half that weight. What I realized is that if you were doing sledge work full time as we see in some of the old videos you really could make some pretty big things by hand and you'd be in incredibly good shape to boot.

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