March 13, 201412 yr have some 7018 here you can have ( also have as big DC welder ). normally for 7018 you have to use DC, some will work with AC but most wont. I use the 7018 when welding the table onto my 'agricultural anvil' body and horn is a mole plough, table is a section of fork lift tine
March 13, 201412 yr might try a combination, weld and then heat and hammer to help hide the "nose job"...
March 14, 201412 yr Why not cut the nose off and drill and tap the end and make attachments. One of which would be the new tip. You could then make all kinds of fixtures to mount for different jobs. Stakes would be great with that much mass behind them.
March 14, 201412 yr Why not cut the nose off and drill and tap the end and make attachments. One of which would be the new tip. You could then make all kinds of fixtures to mount for different jobs. Stakes would be great with that much mass behind them. Adapting the anvil to do different tasks? Heresy I say! But, that's not a bad idea. Though would the attachments work loose if you hit them? Best of luck with the repair basher! Andy
March 14, 201412 yr just thought i would have a bit of fun with your photo and give your anvil a nose job i did a good bit of rebuilding on a 200lb pw with 7018 rod rough ground it to the shape i wanted and then finished it off with a good bit of draw filing once finished you cant see a color difference between the old wr horn and the new 7018 if i remember correctly i think i added about 2.5lb to the anvils weight by the end
March 15, 201412 yr Gee I think that nose looks useful! It looks like a heavy chain anvil to me! I kinda like it! If stolen it would be easy to identify!
March 15, 201412 yr Well if it does go missing, I wouldn't pick a fight with the guy that could carry it off that's for sure. That's one beast of an anvil Owen, congratulations on your find, Simon.
March 16, 201412 yr 7014 and 7018 are the US call outs for 70,000 psi tensile plain rods. The 7014 has a coating that causes it to chill faster and it builds faster as the coating also has metal in it. The 7018 is a low hydrogen all position plain rod. The 7014 is maybe a little easier to run and leaves a pretty nice deposit. The 7018 with a good DC machine leaves a very sound solid deposit. Rod of choice in the Boiler shop I worked in before Mig with dual sheild took over. I think it will be quite hard to get that horn to temp and not get too much heat into the body of the anvil. I would weld. Good luck
May 29, 201412 yr Author well the nose job is coming along and the rough welding up complete, bit by bit in off time. certainly over a days welding and a lot of rods. I'll get a picture when its upright again.
May 29, 201412 yr mega-rhino-plasty indeed! Though in humans they generally reduce the sice of the nose... I'm sure it could use some time in the sun after the repair and I would like to volunteer my shop in very sunny NM, USA!
June 13, 201412 yr I don't know why everyone wants you to weld and grind on that old beauty. It was made by forging and it looks like that horn hasn't broken, it's just been worked to it's new shape. All the metal is there. If you don't like the shape, hit it with a hammer.
June 13, 201412 yr Did you preheat before welding? I'm contemplating repairing a few spots on my anvil and happen to have a few packs of 7018 and a nice big welder...! Dan
June 15, 201412 yr Looking good Basher. I'm guessing you're going to leave the point nice and blunt. There's a 6cwt anvil on eBay just now. Looks in prime condition but it's £500... Looking forward to seeing it finished up. Andy
November 19, 201411 yr Author well its finally done, total weight is now 872 lb... Matthew in the piccie did most of the work, between 2 and 3 days work so not worth it from an english perspective but does the anvil justice..... I think it may well be a mousehole.? final grind of the bick. after clean up and polish ...
November 19, 201411 yr I did hope to see it forged back to shape but you did a great job bringing her back! Very cool little grinder you got there, did you build it?
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