Foundryman

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About Foundryman

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/14/1988

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London
  • Interests
    Hot metal

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  1. Weight of Fisher sawers anvil

    I think what you're looking at there is the wooden pattern one of those anvils was cast from but I could be wrong.
  2. It followed me home

    They could be handy outside of their intended use too, applying finishes to wood work comes to mind, depending on the price you paid for them of course.
  3. They're relatively common on ebay in the UK so I'd hazard a guess at it being English, simply because there aren't that many imported anvils in the UK as we had so many home grown manufacturers. I know where there is an identical one rusting away in someone's garden about 50' from the sea.
  4. Pair of paring knives

    Thank you. The finish is basically the oxides created during the heat treat process. Before heat treat the blades were finished to 120grit, they were normalised three times then heated to critical temperature (750-800c or so, my setup isn't very precise) and held there for 20 minutes before being quenched into pre-heated rape seed oil. After tempering I then cleaned up the entire blade with a wire wheel in an angle grinder, removing all the loose oxides and smoothing any rough edges. After taking the bevels to 400grit on the belt grinder I hand sanded them to 600grit and very lightly buffed the top half of the blades with 600grit and then I rubbed the whole blade with autosol, a brand of metal polish available in the UK. Simon.
  5. Pair of paring knives

    Thank you for the kind comments, I appreciate them. I understand your concerns regarding the "rough" area at the top of the blade but the roughness is purely cosmetic, that area has been wire brushed with an angle grinder and then lightly sanded with high grit sand paper, it's no more rough than the texture on my damascus blades post-etch. Simon.
  6. Help fixing a warped blade

    I've had success straightening O1 blades with the method you described, I clamp the blade between two pieces of angle iron and use coins as the three points of contact. One coin goes on the apex of the bend, the other two go where the other side of the blade contacts the angle iron. I then tighten G clamps until the apex of the bend is in contact with the angle iron on one side and the coin on the other, for me I found this to be the right amount of counter-bend for the blade to be straight once re-tempered and cooled. I then re-temper the blade at 200c~ for 2 hours and allow to fully cool before removing the clamps. Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for any "tinks" that might occur using this process, straightening warped blades is always risky but I've used this method successfully 5 or 6 times over the past couple of years. Good luck Simon.
  7. Pair of paring knives

    These two knives were commissioned to go alongside one I made in the summer that I gifted to my brother (link below). I had quite a bit of trouble with these blades keeping the grind lines even, something that caused me no problem at all on with the original knife. Whether that was because it was only beveled on one side or because it's just a longer blade and easier to handle at the grinder I'm not sure. The blades are ground from 2mm thick O1, the handles are Ash with Bog Oak to match the Nakiri. The larger blade is 5" and the smaller blade is 3 1/2" in length. The oak chopping board will be going to my brother with the blades as a house warming gift. Simon.
  8. When you pick up heavily discounted Olive wood chopping boards in the sales to cut up and make knife handles from! Lots of good handle stock for cheaper than I can buy raw timber, yes please.
  9. Veteran's Day 2017

    Also to those from Great Britain, France, Belgium, Germany, Australia, New Zealand and every other country who acknowledge what we British call armistice day. Thank you for your sacrifice.
  10. Striking hard on hard

    I've chipped a hammer face with a missed blow and I can't count the number of anvils with chipped edges I've seen posted here so there's definitely a risk. There's a reason why smiths traditionally wear heavy leather aprons! Eye protection is less traditional but just as necessary if not more so.
  11. Damascus etching help

    Is there a chance your etchant could be contaminated with a thin layer of oil on the surface of it? It almost looks like you have a tide line going across the blade as though its dragged a layer of oil with it as it's entered the acid, other than that I have no idea. I hope someone with more experience than myself can help you figure it out!
  12. Damascus etching help

    Did you thoroughly de-grease the blade before etching? If not the could well be the problem. Other than that the only thing I can think of is that the blade isn't hardened evenly and the softer areas are etching differently to the harder areas. Hopefully its just a grease issue, Good luck!
  13. It followed me home

    Looks like a hand held induction heater, think electric blowtorch for localised heating. It's an interesting idea and I didn't actually know such things existed!
  14. It followed me home

    No, Whitechapel, but it's not uncommon for the two to work on each other's bells or replace fittings, or copy the other company's products for that matter!
  15. It followed me home

    When I worked at the bell foundry the no-bell prize was awarded after miss-casts where the mould didn't flow properly! Also those look more like chime hammers than bell clappers, I may have actually disposed of the pattern used to cast those a couple of months ago. In the devastation here you can see some patterns for a much larger version.