April 19, 201313 yr This is the mount I modified for school. It works nice. It originally held a basketball hoop that fell and smashed the ring flat. I saw it in the school's junk pile and knew just how to use it. It does not work real well for much leverage as it does spin. But for what the kids do with it, it works great.
April 20, 201313 yr My main post vise is mounted to an ash beam that goes 3 feet into the ground, It is set in a working triangle of the three pieces of equipment with about equal distance to forge, anvil and vise. If you are using the vise for hammering as in upsetting or forging animal heads, etc., it is important that it has a solid mount. If you hammer on your vise, or what's in it, and it moves or shakes then you are putting energy into the vise and not as much into your work. Same is true of your anvil. A solid mount will save you time and energy.
April 20, 201313 yr My post vise is solid mounted to an ash beam that goes three feet into the ground. The shop is arranged in the working triangle of forge, anvil and vise, so it is most convenient and fewest steps to each. A heat and time saver. If you hammer on a piece of metal in the vise and the vise moves or shakes then you are putting energy into doing that instead of moving hot metal. Having the vise solid mounted will save you energy as you will get more work done with that setup. It's like the difference on how much you get done hammering hot metal on a 400 pound anvil compared to a 75 pound anvil. Even with the anvil post, unless it's a real big anvil, you will get more work done on an anvil with a solid post in the ground compared to one that's movable.
April 20, 201313 yr I have 3 five inch and one 8 inch post vises all mounted on square steel tubing 4 feet in the ground in concrete. Getting ready to mount another 7 inch one in the ground so only about 27 inches high to use as a striking vise. Willtake a cut wheel and cut a V in each jaw to form a square to hold hardy tools etc
April 20, 201313 yr my first post did not have the pic withit so i will try again. the vises are mounted on a 30 gal. barrel filled with concrete. in between the vises is a 2" receiver hitch that i have a lot of tools mounted to. different bending jigs, swage block, etc. that way i can keep them in a rack in the corner and not taking up floor space. the barrel is pinned to the floor with 5/8 pins. that way i can pull the pins and move the vises and barrel out of the way. it is not to bad to move. the pins hold exceptionally well. the pic is there somewhere, i get some sql error so i don't know.
April 20, 201313 yr i don't know what is going on, i edited the last post and reposted it and there is the pic. some technology is such a pain.
April 20, 201313 yr Well at least I am not the only one having problems with this posting. Here is the picture that did not show up the three times.
April 30, 201313 yr I needed a way to remove the vice from the working place and store it indoors for the Winter. This is the solution I came up with I just remove two nuts and bolts, and I store vice + stand.
May 3, 201313 yr I had to add some bits to the bottom to secure the vice even better You can notice that the bottom plate sits over a bit of rebar that is stuck into the concrete to avoid the stand to move and at the same time to allow the stand to be easily removed.
January 4, 20179 yr My work space is minimal. I work in a silo. I have this 6 inch vise bolted to the floor (concrete). I have a few more vises. One will be mounted so that I can move it outside when the weather permits.
January 4, 20179 yr 13 minutes ago, yves said: My work space is minimal. I work in a silo. I have this 6 inch vise bolted to the floor (concrete). I have a few more vises. One will be mounted so that I can move it outside when the weather permits. Is that stand for training against barefoot smithing?
January 4, 20179 yr C1, This a gear from an old steam shovel. The teeth are really worn down. So, would you come around our parts, you could forge bare footed. The dangers would be from above. You would thus need steel toes but no sole on the shoe. The teeth are forgiving …
January 5, 20179 yr An old gentleman, and I am myself pretty much up there (he's worst than I am …), had worked on the machine. When it expired, a piece went there, another here. He had that gear and when he helped me get started in the forge, he came up with it from his junk piles. His "piles" are in a building all sorted out on two storeys. A beauty to behold. Whenever I need help, I go to him. It always works out. That man could have become a very creative engineer had he been born in a time and in a place where formal education would have been possible for him.
January 5, 20179 yr Ahh, should've known it was a gear to an old steam shovel. Pst, get those hammers off the floor!
January 7, 20179 yr I have the post vise mounted on the edge of the workbench (which is quite heavy) close to the forge and the main anvilso I only have to turn between the three. My machinist's vise sits at the end of the workbench. I have never felt any need to move the vise around.
January 7, 20179 yr currently my little 4'' is mounted on a 6x6 post cemented in the ground. in the next shop after we move i will probably have it on a portable stand and mount my big vice on my not yet built welding table with my bench vice.
January 7, 20179 yr Mine, which was modified by welding some big square tube onto the mounting bracket, is mounted on the table the anvil is on. That's not how I set it up, that's how I got it, but I haven't had any problems with it getting in the way of using the anvil. Some time I'll get around to taking pictures and posting them. In the picture you can see the table (before I mounted the vise, this was before I actually started, so I now have a different setup). The vise goes on the far end, opposite the anvil, and would face toward the left if it was mounted.
January 9, 20179 yr On 19/04/2013 at 11:27 PM, wd&mlteach said: On 19/04/2013 at 11:27 PM, wd&mlteach said: This is the mount I modified for school. It works nice. It originally held a basketball hoop that fell and smashed the ring flat. I saw it in the school's junk pile and knew just how to use it. It does not work real well for much leverage as it does spin. But for what the kids do with it, it works great. This is the mount I modified for school. It works nice. It originally held a basketball hoop that fell and smashed the ring flat. I saw it in the school's junk pile and knew just how to use it. It does not work real well for much leverage as it does spin. But for what the kids do with it, it works great. Mine is in bits at the moment having a long soak in vinegar. Its only a baby with 3" jaws.will be getting a bigger one too) I haven't fitted yet and I've looked on file here at various ways of doing it also on google. I have a 6" concrete floor to work with and I have this plate I would like to use as a base. Its 23" dia. 1/2" thick mild steel and weighs 24.5kgs. and am thinking of welding a suitable 4 or 5" square tube to the base and fix the vise to that and perhaps fix the bottom of the leg through the plate too. Are there any issues with doing it this way please? thanks. Tom. On 19/04/2013 at 11:27 PM, wd&mlteach said:
January 9, 20179 yr Sorry, I feel like I have mixed up the previous post to mine about a post vise base; with the one from another member about basketball hoops. My post and request is not part of that and it starts at the words, "Mine is in bits at the moment having a long soak in vinegar...." The best one I have seen so far that might fit my bill is on faq's on anvilfire under 'V'-its a red steel circular base with a circular steel pole welded to it. thanks Tom.
January 10, 20179 yr Surprised? I haven't had one single reply about my question! Anybody there? Can it be given a bump up? Tom.
January 10, 20179 yr 22 hours ago, Tommytaptap said: I have a 6" concrete floor to work with and I have this plate I would like to use as a base. Its 23" dia. 1/2" thick mild steel and weighs 24.5kgs. and am thinking of welding a suitable 4 or 5" square tube to the base and fix the vise to that and perhaps fix the bottom of the leg through the plate too. Are there any issues with doing it this way please? In my opinion its better to have a piece with a hole welded to the base that receives the leg. If you drill a hole and put it inside it will in the best case wedge itself in the hole, worst case sit hollow above the ground or destroy what is under the plate. Just bend a collar around the leg, put everything together and then weld the collar to the base plate.
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