gote

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Everything posted by gote

  1. If you want to deaden the noise on the anvil you have, you should make sure that the contact between the stump and the steel is at the ouside end of the steel. Your piece of rail is not supported at all at the end . You have created a gong. Generally you want to get the vibrations down into the stump so some bracing may also be required. Test by wedging pieces of wood that can carry the vibrations down. Your shape is so complicated that it is diffcicut to guess what will work best. Experimet!
  2. I am in no way offended. I forgot to put in a . Mortise belongs to my passive vocabulary i.e. words that I understand when I see it but sometimes do not remember when I need to use it. I very rarely use a dictionary when writing English or German so I sometimes get it wrong. However I think that I wrote routed in the thread 'Show me your anvil'.
  3. I probably mean routered since I used a router. However, what do I know I am just a B--y foreigner
  4. Just putting a piece of something on or below the heel will dampen the ring thus the magnet. I assume that it acts by allowing a slight movement that sucks up the vibrational energy. The chain should work in a similar way. The heel and the foot(feet) under the heel act together as a tuning fork. If you tie down the foot, the foot it will dissipate energy into the stand thus decreasing the energy the heel can broadcast. Thus you should make sure there is good contact foot-stand at the end of the foot. A very efficient way, is to connect the end of the heel to the foot (or stand) by wedging a piece of wood or something between them. This is very efficient but will sometimes be in the way when you bend around the heel. The heel of a London pattern acts as the resonating body of a violin or guitar thus the wedging prevents most of the transmission of the energy into the air. -
  5. I have some remarks on that #1: It is unlikely to be Söderfors who put in the ad. It is the US based trader thus Söderfors are hardly responsible.. #2: We do not mean what 'forged' ment to the guys wo were involved. Also in those days Ad-people were not blacksmiths. #3: The seller wanted to get two points through: #A: The anvil cannot delaminate since it is a one piece design #B: It is not a cast Iron ASO. Thus I think the ad proves very little. As soon as the cast steel process was developed many Swedish steel works started casting anvils rather than building them. Anvils were a good sideline for a stel casting foundry Other products were more of the one-off type. There would have been no reason for them to use any other manufacturing method.
  6. Biggundoctor just asked the important question. The best way depends upon weight and shape of the anvil. My 250 pound anvil sits on a traditional tree stump and has no other fastening than that it sits in a mitered 1/4" depression to stop it from wandering. Now this is a North Swedish design and that is less noisy by far than the London pattern, which is designed more or less as a gigant tuning fork. My small 70 pound anvil also sits on a tree stump but I have put four 4" nails around the feet. They are only halfway down and bent over the feet. That one is London pattern and tying the feet to the stump this way damped the ring considerably. It is important that the feet have a solid contact at the end if one wants to dampen the noise. (That ties down one tine of the tuning fork and taps the vibration energy down into the stand.) I make the bearing surface of the stump very slightly concave 1/16" or thereabouts.
  7. Would a wrought anvil body ever chip like this one has? I would have assumed cast iron body at the first glance and considered it a very expensive doorstop. A solid piece of worougt iron could have its uses as stock for something.
  8. I used "S-shaped" in lack of a better word partly inspired by the Chinese character which does not show the whole bow. The shape I refer to is when strung. The arrow is not pushed by the bow but by the string and thus the direction, speed and force of the string's ends are important. The possible speed of the bow ends is limited not only by the reaction force in the string but also by their weight. Thus a heavier bow of the same pull and geometry is slower. The speed of the arrow is higher than the speed of the bow tips because of the angle of the string and the more the bow tip movement is outwards the more the speed increases. It seems to me that the Mongolian bow is more efficient than the longbow in this respect. It is of course also more handy on horseback. That the mongolians did not use steel or other metal is not a reason not to use it now. The above refers to the ability of the bow to transfer the stored energy to the string. Another important factor is the amount of energy that can be stored in the bow when pulled. Steel can store more energy per volume than any wood Thus it is a rational choise for a crossbow which is pulled using a stirrup or even using rack and pinion. By the way I want to correct myself. It is possible to use pulleys also on a bow - provided that the strings do not interfere with the arrow. The string is not fastened to the tip of the bow. Instead both ends go over a pulley to the other tip. This allows a stronger bow to be used and increases the speed of the arrow. A possible solution is to have four wheels; one on each side of the bow tip and two strings, tied together in the middle. This way the arrow has space between the strings.
  9. Sorry I do not understand. I believed that a pound is approximately 0.45 kg both being dimensions for mass. Then for practical reasons we calibrate our scales (which we use for weighing) in kgs (or pounds) rather than Newtons since we usually use them to determine mass. We do not buy a Newton of potatos we buy a Kg or a pound. A Newton of potatoes is probably a ton of new potatoes or???
  10. Yes that is usually the case. If you need to carry items on hikes avoid combination stuff get good working light weight stuff.
  11. It seems that one way to use a steel cross bow bow is to use pulleys to multiply the speed. I have seen a number of these but never used one. this is obviousy not possible on a longbow. The oriental Mongol "S-shaped" bows (as opposit to the Japanese) are turned "backwards" when there is no string. I do not know for sure wether this helps or not. As far as I know they were mostly made in composite material but not from metal. The speed of the arrow is determined also by the angle of the string. The more the end of the bow mowes outwards rather than forward the faster the string moves. The peculiar shape of the mongol bow probably gives that effect. the string is shortened and pulled sideways by the curvature of the bow ends. If I had to make a steel bow it would be a mongolian one; not a longbow.
  12. You do not need any special fire brick. Any clay brick (even home made) is OK since the temperature at the edge of the forge is not that high. They must be dry, however. The problem with cement and blocks held together with cement is that cement, that has solidified, contains crystal water. If suddenly heated, the water will boil off and will cause some kind of explosion or at least make it crumble. What happens, depends upon the type of product. A mixture of sand and clay has been used as mortar for stoves made from bricks for a very long time. Probabyly since antiquity. You control the fire by the amount of air you blow in and by the size of your fuel. Small size fuel will keep the fire ball small and concentrate the heat. Excess air will cool down the center of the fire ball and move its limits outwards. My experience is that if the air pressure is high and the enterance holes into the forge are small, they will not be blocked by clinker even in a bottom draft forge. The clinker will form a doughnut that can be fished out every couple of hours. I use a blower that runs continuously.
  13. I have been using the belts you use to strap things (Can't remember the English word.) It CAN be put together using paper staples. I did that first but the result was rather noisy with a lot of vibrations. After that I took it off, cut the ends using a carpenetr's chisel, solidified the ends by heating them and then stiched it together pulling the thread in a figure of eight pattern to get a butt end joint. If it slips I add a coupe of drops of oil - yes it works. It sticks by smearing.
  14. Since you did not find the answer after serious search and since you did not get a complete answer to that question in this thread I assume the answer is: "We do not know for sure since we did not do it ourselves". Most of us do not have access to spring steel in dimensions suitable for a hammer head and most of us would try to make as good a hammer as we can rather than testing our abilities to forge weld by making hammer heads. YOU have to do it yourself and please tell us the result - with pictures. Spring steel can be heat treated to a hardness that is too high for a hammer and also to one that is too low. So without having tried it myself I would suggest that it can be done - provided that the welding is OK.
  15. This used to be the way to make hammers when steel was very expensive. I have two that I picked up from flea market sales. I keep them as historical artefacts. The soft peens are a nuisance.
  16. Or too late
  17. Get yourself a nuts and bolt handbook from one of the more reliable suppliers. At least here in Sweden they supply all info about how and why and what. For free. I could also say that my professor taught me that when studying fasteners.
  18. To hit in the exact right spot is always a challenge - more for the newbee than for the experienced. It is easier to hit right with the flat than with the peen. Now this moves steel in both directions so the solution is to use a bottom fuller or the far edge of the anvil. This way the horizontal direction of the handle is unimportant so the cross or diagonal peen hammer is not needed. One can stand slightly off center versus the anvil and hold the hammer in the most comfortable way. Also less precision is necessary since it is hitting flat with flat. A simple spring fuller is also a very helpful tool. To do it this way not only gives a better precision but it also minimizes the contact area between stock and anvil so less heat is lost. For these reasons I hardly ever use the pein these days and I would not use a Hofi hammer since I find it easier to position the stock on the edge of the anvil than to tilt the hammer head. Of course one should have the anvil edge properly dressed. To use the horn is an alternative but there is less mass below. I have made an experimental straight peen hammer (Stock removal from a scrapped stone masons hammer) but I find that I do not use it. My main anvil weighs 250 pounds. Maybe I would do it differently on a small one.
  19. Have you tried the hardware shop? They usually sell files This is not the file droid you are looking for.
  20. Another good reason is that a rolled thread is stronger than a cut one
  21. I tend to use about 20° on one side for draw knives, planes and wood chisels but this is slighty misleading since I grind on a wheel (wet slow going) so the actual cutting angle is slightly less. I then sharpen on a fine flat japanese water stone. or a small diamond sharpener if in a hurry or away from the shop. The slightly concave shape gives a consistent angle (which is again 20°) to the actual edge and very little material is removed in each sharpening. Eventually the convexity is gone and I then grind it back again. It is a little on the idea of a cut throat razor but with much less convexity. I do not use hoes or mattocks but gardening tools get around 30° with no sharpening. These angles work well for me but YMMV
  22. I can see the picture. It is a total blackness showing very clearly your state of mind when your tool cracked. (and I am using a pretty efficient and not very old PC) My rule is: One missed hit = short break pottering around in the shop putting things in order. Third missed hit means closing for the day - at once! Even if it seems to be "only a little more and it is finshed"
  23. I think it does - or should. Estetics to some part has to do with function. It even goes to living things. A body that looks efficient, be it man or beast, is perceived as beautiful - at least by me.
  24. in the mid nineties I bought a sushi knife in the shop near the "Thunder gate" in Asakusa Tokyo. The sales guy did not sell me the knife I had chosen. He brought an identical blade from somewhere in the back of the litte shop, suggested a suitable handle and put it on and then engraved the shop's name in the blade as I was waiting. (This type of blade as a thin sheet of hard steel welded to the side of a softer blank). Thereupon he showed that the knife was pretty sharp and asked if I wanted it really sharp. Sharpening would take twenty minutes. Of course I said yes so he sat down on the steps leaing to the back of the shop, holding the stones with his feet and started. Considering the quality of the knife and the work included the knife was very cheap. The last time I was there (2014) the handles were on and engraving done but they still put in twenty minutes of sharpening