Nice score Pepr. It's hard to find an anvil in our neck of the woods for that price.

I found him in an old cavalry, some idea of the year? it's a Swedish kohlswa

Edited April 2, 20197 yr by Roinfante
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16 hours ago, FlatLiner said:

Nice score Pepr. It's hard to find an anvil in our neck of the woods for that price.

I was sweating bullets when I went to pick it up. I couldn't believe I was getting it for that price!

Are you with the ABANA affiliate down there? I have been curious in paying them a visit some day as there aren't any other groups around here.

Thanks Frosty, but I think I'm going to hold onto this one for a while. I can assure you that it will be in good hands. Besides, I think I heard that you live in Alaska and I don't want to triple the cost of this anvil getting it up there! 

I definitely want to make a new stand for it, but I'm torn between the wood block pattern or just welding one up. I work as a welder, so it would probably be cheaper and more in my area of expertise just to fabricate one out of the scrap bin at work. 

You make a great point on the safety issue, it didn't even cross my mind! I was just concerned about being able to draw out over that edge without getting snagletooth marks in everything. :D

Welded stands have the significant advantage of being noticeably quieter. Take a look at some of the anvil stand threads for ideas.

5 hours ago, JHCC said:

Los soportes soldados tienen la ventaja significativa de ser notablemente más silenciosos. Echa un vistazo a algunos de los hilos del soporte de yunque para ideas.

Thank you very much for your answer

You’re welcome!

Also, welcome to IFI! If you haven’t yet, please READ THIS FIRST!!!

Roinfante: There should be a date stamped in the side opposite name but if you're really interested you'l need to remove the paint. 

I'm a HUGE fan of Swedish cast steel anvils, don't let the edge chipping bother you, stay off them till you've used it a while and develop good hammer control. Once you have some experience you'll know how much if at all you need to address the chipping.

You're in for a treat, that's an excellent anvil, wear and all. GREAT SCORE!

Frosty The Lucky.

After several longer than ideal road trips to look at used anvils that were mediocre for often a higher price per pound I broke down and bought a new 50kg/110# Kanca. Info on hardness and durability to follow in the kanca anvil thread.

Are you thinking to yours or, “Why didn’t I do this a while ago?”

Took a little while to work the second job and squirrel away enough for this one. Had originally planned on a smaller NC anvil. So I'm glad I spent the time hunting for an older one. The extra investment means I'm in a range where I won't need to think about a bigger anvil for a long time. It is also the style of anvil I had most wanted instead of a ferrier anvil with a bunch of gizmos for shoeing that I don't really need.

If I were getting a new anvil, I would definitely be getting one with a square horn, like a Peddinghaus or a Kanka. Very, very useful. 

Coming in with no pre existing notions when it comes to that; a square horn just makes more sense to me then a flat London style heel. As does the pritchel and hardy being on opposing sides of the face. 

How much experience?   I have an anvil I keep close to my big shop anvil to true up fork tines with.  I have not found a tapered sq horn that it wide enough where the thickness it right for this task. OTOK I make few "clips" and those I tend to do in the screwpress.   YMMV

Hi - New here.

I bought an anvil last week from a bush property in South Australia. Hundredweight system stamped, so assume English.

1.2.22 - 190 pounds.  Other side appears to be stamped WH, but partly obscured by chisel marks.

Not a bad face, but severely worn cutting step. Nice ring and hammer rebound, but I haven't got a ball-bearing yet!

Any guesses on maker?...or date? Will try to get some better pictures as I clean it up.

Cheers

Edited April 7, 20197 yr by HammerDownUnder
typing Error

Welcome to IFI...I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST

We won't remember your location once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show your location. There are quite a few folks here from down under.

Cheers, mate - thanks for the welcome!

I think I have now answered my own questions after wire-brushing some more gunk & rust off the side of my anvil. It is an English ATTWOOD. It has had a hard life.

There are a lot of chisel marks obscuring the letter stamps, but below the brand there appears to be an "S" and maybe a "T" - possibly once spelling Stourbridge.

At the bottom is "WH". After looking at a few online photos of Attwood anvils, it is suggested that this might be the mark (initials) of the man who forged it? I have seen one other WH and also DC. The letter stamps are "sans-serif", which suggests a later production period - early ones (c1840s) appear to have letter stamps with serifs. I am guessing early 20th century? (...or certainly first quarter.) Length is 26 inches.

My anvil also has handling holes and a flat base.

I will continue to clean it up and then make a mount for it. I think I will need to build-up the cutting table, which is fairly well eroded down from years of hard work. I had originally thought the top face was original and pretty good, but after cleaning off some muck, it appears to have already been welded and built up. Must get a ball-bearing! Rings well and light hammers rebound quite nicely!

Cheers to all. I have already learned a great deal from this forum! Thanks.

Out of interest - I already had an ATTWOOD hammer, which belonged to my father. Appears to be exactly the same letter stamps on the anvil!

Yep Attwood for sure, should serve you well. Don't know if you have seen this thread yet, bunch of great folks down by you.

 

I love the Attwood duo of hammer and anvil.  You were fated to have that anvil find you.  I love the anvil.  

I'll have to get a picture of my 4 oz champion ballpeen and my 30 pound champion powerhammer.

6 hours ago, Lou L said:

I love the Attwood duo of hammer and anvil.  You were fated to have that anvil find you.  I love the anvil.  

Yes sir, Lou I think you are absolutely correct! I think fate had something to do with that acquisition! A happy coincidence & an unexpected surprise. Right place and right time for me!! Doesn't happen often.

172 hay budden carved out by hand a red wood  block for a stand  and have a 1/2” top plate bolted down  with flat bar welded to some pipe that’s welders rk rhe plate so I have tong and hammer holders on bothbsides but  now is to big and i want to change the stand but not bad first run  That I fallowed the anvil mag write up on how to repair adds damage and repaired mine and fixed some top plate damage and am waiting to have a freind who has a mini machine shop and is going to use a surface grinder to give me the most accurate flat top plate but don’t want him taking more than a 1/32 off the original top plate and said he could clean up all the weld build up on the sides cause I was nervous to do it and mess it up cause it took 6 hours to fix and so far had bony lost any rebound what so ever but didn’t want to do it again I’d i didn’t have to . Also repaired 5 other anvils this way which paid for my 110 columbian and the 240$ in electrodes

120 columbian not mounted yet am going to build steel stand 

110columbian  needs stand 

Hello!  Long time reader, first time poster.  I just picked up my first anvil in Milwaukee this weekend.  Wonder if anyone here can tell me more about it from the pictures?  So far I haven't found any markings of any sort, it seems to have good rebound but it looks like maybe it was nicked with a cutting torch in a couple spots and someone banged on the face with a chisel it looks like.  I plan on cleaning it up with a wire wheel once I get back from vacation.

 

What were the ball bearing test results?

And a picture of the bottom please.

I will do both once I get back from vacation. The sale had several different anvils and I used a hammer to determine rebound between the different items at the time