Dave that looks to me like an Arm & Hammer.  Check the front foot, right side, for a serial number.  

I also am thinking Arm & Hammer. Another clue is the power hammer marks under the heel, might check there.

I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s.~ Semper Paratus

I just acquired a brand spanking new Hay Budden 123 pounder which sat on a shelf for over 100 years that still sports its original paint.  Having never been struck, the edges are almost as sharp as a surgeon's scalpel.  I don't DARE work on it, for fear of hampering its crisp "demeanor ".  It's so new, the hay budden factory in Brooklyn didn't even file-radius the far edge near the horn.  God is good!

VERY nice score.  However, IMO, tools are made to be used and in some sense they want to be used.  Having a fine anvil like this and not using it is the same as buying an expensive, fine, high quality rifle or shotgun and then just hanging it on the wall.  To me, something just doesn't feel right about that.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

I reckon a few oxy cut marks would look great on that one. No, but as George said it reminds me of when the Japanese made the massive battleship Yamato, which had the biggest guns, toughest armor, was one of the most formidable and powerful ships of the time. And it promptly sat in the dock for years out of fear it would be sunk (which granted it was).

But unless you plan to have it only to eventually sell it, it'd be good to use it, at least a little bit, for small projects that will preserve the originality but still give it purpose beyond eye candy.

That's an amazing find. 

I would have both a hard time not using it and using it. Pretty rare to have a new old stock tool like that. 

Can you provide some additional backstory to the anvil?  A shelf where for 100 years?  Did you just happen upon it or use the TPAAT method? 

I just acquired a brand spanking new Hay Budden 123 pounder which sat on a shelf for over 100 years that still sports its original paint.  Having never been struck, the edges are almost as sharp as a surgeon's scalpel.  I don't DARE work on it, for fear of hampering its crisp "demeanor ".  It's so new, the hay budden factory in Brooklyn didn't even file-radius the far edge near the horn.  God is good!

I'm very good friends with the owner of a scrap yard in Pennsylvania.   He EXCITEDLY called me on the phone, and told me he just liquidated a factory, and found two new anvils on a factory shelf.  The other one is a brand new 100 pound illinois iron and bolt anvil, also sporting original gray paint, found on the same shelf

I even strapped it in with a seat belt; one cannot be too careful with precious cargo like anvils.

This has so much historical value, I'd agree not to use them and conserve and document them instead.

I learned my lesson about not strapping one down in the bed of my truck a long time ago. I hit the brakes and heard it slide and thunk.  The horn poked through the back (we'll, front) of the bed.

Anyway that's two amazing survivors. Are the makers marks and serial numbers crisp to see? Curious how they look. I know they weren't always stamped the best but would be neat to see the ones that havnt been beat on or weathered. 

I suggest you run right out and buy some lottery tickets. With luck like that they probably would all be winners. Talk about anvil envy.

I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s.~ Semper Paratus

Got myself a new little toy. It's a 10kg / 22 pounds. It was cheap. My big anvil has a thick horn, I was thinking about making a bickern for the hardy, instead I'll make a stand and use it instead. 

Hello everyone, this is my new anvil! Mouse hole, 1913, 195 kg. 

NICE score Voldemar! She's had plenty of practice and still has generations of life in her. 

 Frosty The Lucky.

25 minutes ago, Frosty said:

ОТЛИЧНЫЙ результат, Вольдемар!

 Фрости Счастливчик.

Thank you, I'm glad! Perhaps I'll do a restoration of the anvil face

I don't see anything on that anvil's face that needs anything but hammer and hot iron. ANY grinding removes high carbon steel that can never be replaces taking years of useful life with it. If for some reason you NEED a very flat surface or crisp corners make a bottom tool that fits the hardy hole, I've known a couple guys who have cut slots for wedges in the bottom of the shank where it passes through the hardy hole so the bottom tool is locked to the anvil. 

Just putting it back to work will go a long way to restoring the surface to smooth by driving blemishes back down. There isn't much to do with the sway in the face that won't seriously degrade the anvil as a whole. 

I'd take a wire wheel to it to brush off the dust and put her to work if it was mine. Later I'd probably apply a coat of Trewax a carnuba paste wax, the kind of wax that makes bowling alleys nearly indestructible. After warming the anvil up to fresh cup of tea temperature so the carnuba melts and penetrates the anvil surface. I've done this to both my anvils one time about 25 years ago and they're still sealed against weather.

 Frosty The Lucky.

Frosty, thank you for your opinion. I myself am of the same opinion that touching the anvil with anything other than hot metal and a wire brush is vandalism. In our region, it is almost impossible to buy an anvil in perfect condition. They are all more or less used. I want to ask: do you consider welding with a consumable electrode as an acceptable restoration?

Not unless you are prepared and equipped to heat treat the face after welding on it. An arc weld leaves a HAZ on each side of the weld bead. The Heat Affect Zone is the area around the bead that was first flash heated to melting and then chilled very quickly by the mass of the surrounding steel.

Welding hardened tool steel means first preheating it to a temperature the arc won't shock the steel with a rapid change. This also prevents the weld zone from chilling rapidly because the surrounding mass is warm. Even done correctly, right pre-heat temperature, right amperage setting, right number of passes, pinged and relieved and allowed to cool under controlled conditions, in an oven or wrapped in thick insulation. The hardness and temper will still have been run in the HAZ and it WILL require proper heat treatment to restore the anvil face to the hardness and non-brittle condition it should have.

If you can't heat treat it properly afterwards it will look much better than it actually is. 

From what I see in your pictures you have a nice shop, I could go right to work in it and only have to learn where things belong. Do you have a way to bring that anvil to critical temperature without burning it? (Sparkler = burning and boiling steel making sparks) Do you have a large enough quench tank to chill the steel to or below the desired hardness? Tempering by allowing residual heat in the body is a good method but is tricky and needs helpers.

The other thing to consider is even if you have experience and are good at doing this it ALWAYS puts the anvil at risk of permanent damage. This is much  more probable if you're relying on the advice of some guy on the internet.

 Frosty The Lucky.

Frosty, thank you for your detailed answer. I will listen to your opinion.

You're welcome Voldemar. Please remember that was just my opinion, it's your anvil and your decision. Whatever you decide I'll do my best to help make it work.

 Frosty The Lucky.

I hauled this anvil home yesterday, 102 kg. The maker's mark was struck upside down. It looks familiar but I can't place it. It doesn't matter except for the history. The rebound is amazing the length and width of the face, 90 percent or better.

She's a beauty Laynne and 90% rebound makes her a winner!

I've seen the "crown over a winged wheel" maker's mark but can't recall the maker. I'm sure someone on the forum knows it though. 

Marks struck upside down aren't unusual, It may have been struck late on Friday or first thing Monday. And lastly Brands, logos, trademarks were often made by the maker were the retailer's and not the maker. The best example that I know are anvils made by the Soderfors Foundry. The town of Soderfors Sweden is largely a company town, anvils being a very small % of their output they in fact ceased years ago. 

Anyway, I have a 125lb. Sorceress #5. Cast steel Soderfors, Sweden. The weight is stamped in, the model name and # are cast proud. Cast steel is what Soderfors is about, it, the company name and country are cast proud on the opposite side.

Soderfors cast thousands  of anvils to use what was left in the melt but as far as I know they never claimed anvils as the company product. They just weren't going to let their work go without being paid to leave their mark off.

As much as I love my Soderfors I have ZERO idea who ordered Sorceress anvils  #4, 5, 6, &?

Another good example is Trenton anvils, they were made by a number of companies under contract.

The LOGO, brand, etc. on an anvil isn't necessarily who made it, it's who sold it.

Frosty The Lucky.

Frosty, you are spot on. I did some more digging and I'm convinced that logo was used by the Belgian National Railway System 1835-1870.

Cool, did you find a pic you can link us to? I don't study anvil markings like some of the gang does / did. Thomas Powers kept a notebook and in his day and was a great source for makers, trademarks, etc.

(absent companions.) <sigh> 

Frosty The Lucky.

https://logos.fandom.com/wiki/SNCB

As requested.