dimenickel

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About dimenickel

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    sudbury or elliot lake
  • Interests
    making steel n stuff

Converted

  • Location
    Elliot Lake, Ontario, Canada
  • Biography
    i like coal... and i need more
  • Interests
    blacksmith stuff
  • Occupation
    scrubbing rust off of old stuff

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  1. Larry was a great guy ! this is upsetting news rest in peace bros
  2. i'm a little late to this ..sorry if its a necropost you can check ebay stores for some high temp elements ... they usta have the moly ( they also have some high temp kilns from china .. which i've seen other use it for melting steel on other forums ) not sure on the ifb's that'll handle that kinda temp... your on your own with that as in my case, i'd only consider much more durable materials it'll be lot's cheeper to make a propane melting furnace to melt an iron charge ... myself, i get my refractory from vesuvius don't worry about the uptake of carbon from the clay graphite ... it will happen, but your low carb iron will take awhile at liquid temp to pull it in ? why not cast in cast iron .. melt temp is way lower and much easier to reach !
  3. did you try canadian tire or princess auto. found most my fittings at princess
  4. hi did you have any luck finding people in sudbury ?
  5. thats a beautiful knife love the look tang with birdseye rivet and the checkering on the copper .. Nice !
  6. easily !! you are just trying to get the plates to be in intimate contact with each other ! they stick and the diffusion weld will take place ... -then the more time your at weld temp, grain growth will sorta go through the weld boundaries making a strong bond ( i believe ) .. i usta have a great micrograph pic of this grain growth, really cool to see you'll feel it under the hammer when the weld sets.. it will feel like the mass has become solid ! hammer it hard enough to set the weld ( which is not very hard for me with a 4lb hammer ) afterall, at weld heat the steel feels like hammering play-doh ! well, this is just me.. and everyone has their own ways
  7. why not just do, whatcha did set the weld on the first weld heat by hand, then 2nd heat go to the press to run along i do exactly that but with a powerhammer... set the weld by hand, then do it by power on the 2nd heat
  8. for me, its about the perfect amount of material for making very handy small tongs ! i usually nip the head off the spike but i guess you can leave it at the end of the rein, if you want to show its origin very useful material
  9. 2 1/8" largest i'd go with mine is about 3/4 ... otherwise its long time to heat go for a bigger machine .. 25 or a 35 would be ideal
  10. when i inquired about insurance they quoted me the same as a medium size golf course ! that is the only one that would take me on as a client your lucky you live down south !
  11. haha i agree that is some " bird ----" welding to be honest, i'd probably use a cutting disc and cut off all that ugly weld and try and find the orginal crack... (if there is one ?) i bet Mr bubblegum only did a surface weld and didn't gouge the piece out .. then you could weld it up properly and make it look decent or, you could use it till it fails... just wear safety toe boots, unless you got some fast dancin feet
  12. If the induction heater was imported and it didn't have a powersupply ... it would be an incomplete machine ... then you could say your importing induction heat Parts .... in a separate order, have the powersupply sent ... click them together and your good to go just like ordering a belt grinder with no motor .. well, i suppose big Gov't probably has a way of catchin that ... they've got their mits in everything if it were me...i'd find a way of sneekin one in the country... they are wonderful machines
  13. i use the 3 coil for heating larger stock and move it back n forth ... and i find if the coil size is closer to the work piece, it'll work faster -make the foot switch on the floor a tough metal one... otherwise it may get stomped -are you using big relays ? and are they in an easily replaceable area ? -i mentioned it before ... that its a good idea to be able to easily remove the cover ...so you can blow out the grinding metal dust .... unless its totally sealed, which would be epic awesome !! -i'm really digging the idea of thermocouple control... both salt pot... and for accurate heating of work edges to be normalized and hardened ... that is an option that would appeal to many !
  14. wonderful machines ! and after a short while, you won't be able to do without one a big bonus is that you can forge in the middle of summer during the heat... and induction doesn't heat up your shop at all.. ! and when you get bored... make some damascus with it - the weld heats are very fast, and forgewelds are quick -heres a blade i made with some teeth ( all induction ... with one of Larry's 15kw units ) have fun