Goods

That sounds like a challenge! I’ll see what I come up with… Keep it fun, David

I’m not sure if this would qualify as a flat twist. I left the handle portion at 1/2” octagon, the slit it with a thin cut-off disk and hacksaw two ways to make four sections to twist. The cuts weren’t perfect, so the four sections were all the same thickness. It made for really a really wonky basket and I fiddled with it till I was worried I’d destroy it. JLP, it about the same size ass the standard cheap spring handle chipping hammers, but it is heavier. Keep it fun, David

I have never gad any interest is shoeing horses… Today I finally finished the chipping hammer that I started a while ago: I’m not real happy with the basket twist or the very basic engraving. Overall, it turned out pretty good… and my nephew with be the only one at school with anything like it. The head is made from a large railroad clip, and the handle from a large conveyor drive shaft. (The first handle I made was out of mild steel with a neck similar to an east wing hammer. It didn’t turn out, which is good because it was pretty weak. There’s a long story with that failure…) Keep it fun, David

I really enjoyed this video myself! Will’s channel is kind of an off shoot from Alec Steel’s Channel, but so far I like his content a more. I just wish it was more forging than blade smithing. No offense intended to anyone, but while I’ve made blades, I’m much more into Blacksmithing. Keep it fun, David

John, call someone in the official about the carpet scraps. Sometimes contractors work very fast…

I’ve been having some issues with my power hammer starting up and was planning on purchasing a new contactor for it. I contacted James at AnyangUSA to make sure I was on the right path. Unexpectedly, after a short conversation and without question, he’s sending a new contactor my way. That level of service is not very common these days, and I cannot say how much I appreciate it! Keep it fun, David

What? No pictures? No really, it’s good to hear that you’re still at it. I personally haven’t been doing a much between the weather (and feeling under the weather…). Hardie tools are fun. Of course, I like forging large stock. Keep it fun, David

In my food safe coating I used carnauba wax, bees wax, and walnut oil. Walnut oil also polymerizes like Raw linseed oil, but a little slower and makes the paste wax softer. (Add a solvent if you want it thinner without a long cure time.) Carnauba wax is a hard finish that can be highly polished. I used the beeswax to make is a little “softer” but it won’t get the high polish finish, if that’s what you’re wanting. Keep it fun, David

Two key factors. 1st and already mentioned is location. 2nd is condition. I’m in south central Indiana and got my complete buffalo forge at a steel of $100. In my area you could possibly get $300~500 locally if it’s in good working order and the right people were aware of it. Keeping in mind that most blacksmith’s are frugal collectors! Keep it fun, David

Great work! Have you shown the hardware store owner? He would probably be very interested in this result. Store owners don’t often get to see the results of the sales. Keep it fun, David

As a bonus, with this method you can make a faceted “ball” and if you want it as a finial, just cut and file the excess off the in wanted side. (this was a from a 1” diameter swage, so not exactly mini…) Keep it fun, David

I’m glad that’s the case. I noticed the odd wording, but was erring on the side of caution. I would miss seeing you work if things went the wrong way!

Alexandr, is there going to be any ‘hot’ work done in the area with the spray foam exposed? In my area, spray foam must be enclosed (usually with gypsum board) to meet fire code. I’d hate for you to lose your shop to fire! I had the my shop walls spray foam insulated when I build it. It’s been great in the winter months, but I really need to get more ventilation for when it’s hot outside. Overall, I wouldn’t do it any different. Keep it fun, David

Mothman, properly heat treated spring steel will hold up really well as a chipping hammer. That’s why I chose the Rr clip, it’s basically a spring steel. If I had a large coil spring I would have used that. I annealed it as a step in grain refinement, but also so I could try engraving some lines on it. I really should have practiced engraving more before I did it on this piece though. Keep it fun, David

I got curious on this last night and went down the rabbit hole… I found Lee’s site and let’s just say that today I am suffering from sleep deprivation! Lots of good information there. Keep it fun, David

Frosty, here’s the video I was referring to: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BEwCFm4uKjE He starts hafting the head at around 15:20 if you don’t want to watch the whole video. It’s worth watching though… Keep it fun, David

When I’ve worked on getting something dead flat, I would use both an angle grinder and draw filler. Draw file, lightly grind the spots that are filed. Then beach to filing. This gets me down to the lowest spot faster the filing alone… Just have to be gentle with the grinder to avoid making new low spots! Keep it fun, David

Frosty/All, For the chipping hammer handle, I was starting with a 3/4” square bar upset and forged/filed to fit the eye exactly. I’m not sure if I will rivet the handle in place, or shrink fit it with a steal wedge. (A modification to what Torban did in his video.) The next step on the handle is to draw the neck down. I was thinking an almost diamond cross section 3/8”x3/4”. Then take the grip section almost to octagon and split it for a 4 bar basket twist. (Octagon to eliminate the outside corner and reduce some weight.) I’m a bit worried about a couple things here. First weight. I’m afraid it will end up too heavy. Second, I’ve only ever done forge welded baskets twists and I’m not sure I won’t mangle it trying to make the slits. I get I could grind the slits with a cutoff wheel and finish with a hacksaw, but I would like to try forging it. (I’d really prefer just doing a forge welded basket with a drop tong weld, but I honestly have not had the best luck with drop tong welds, and I want this tool to survive for generations!) Very open to input on this… Keep it fun, David

Thanks Hefty. The forging was fairly clean, but rasp and file work makes a big difference. Keep it fun, David

Sound like your class was awesome! Today I got started on a chipping hammer for my nephew. He’s attending a technical college for welding. I’m trying to make this something special for him. I’ve got forging on the head done. It’s normalized and annealed: Plan is to case some lines around all the edges and stamp his name. Also need to forge out the handle. I’ll post more on it as I make progress. (Forged from an oversized railroad clip.) Keep it fun, David

I have a feeling you have the equipment to go that route. I don’t, unfortunately . Lots of different options. I really like this one, but again probably the one with close to the most work. The real question is it worth the work to you? (I’m not sure if it would be for me, unless I found the machining side of it fun and fulfilling!) Keep it fun, David

For me this is typical due to forging the tip at too low of a temperature. The tip cools quickly as it thins, but it also heats quickly. Don’t forge it below a red heat. Pictures of the issue can be helpful… we always love pictures. Keep it fun, David

It took me a while to find the video, but you can find it here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uJjxz3zjoT4 (I hope that worked!) It may be more effort that you what to put into it, but looks pretty slick. Keep it fun, David

I saw a yt video of a gentleman making a dovetail fixture setup for his fly press. He locked it in place with a toggle cam. The video was very informative. Unfortunately, I can’t remember the channel unfortunately. (I think JHCC may have posted it on this site previously…) Keep it fun, David

Frosty, the Fararday cage issue was the same thing that came to my mind… Im very curious about induction forges, but can’t justify the investment now. Maybe after I can’t get good smithing coal any longer. Keep it fun, David