Mr Moose

Thanks BillyBones. He is one of the best dogs that we have ever had. Really just a big Goof.

No truer words ever spoken Glen.

Bully Dog Forge... Because me and the wife have 2 American Bully Dogs. My avatar is my 7 year old male and when he sets his mind to something, one way or a nother, it WILL get done...

Well if it's not a saying, then it is now. Lovely work CGL. Nice clean lines.

Out of curisity I check the outer shell of my forge last nite after 2 hrs forging 4340. it was an average of 500. Never had a problem and the hammertone paint showes no sign of burning.

All Outstanding works of Art. Wish I had a part of your creativity. I wish you all the best.

picker77, If you have not found a shell for the forge, I used a water heater tank. I strip the outer sheet metal and insulation off then cut both the length you want from the top of the water tank. The top dome is then removed. Split the tube you have just made down the middle. 2 ratch straps will pull it down to the size you want and then weld into place. Cut the top dome to fit the new size of tube that was created. This will be the rear of the forge. Insulate and cast as instructed elsware. As a bonus the rest of the tank (it will be to long) can be left as is to use as a slack tub.

Thank you both for the clarification. It is truly aggravating to find out that the information I received from Navy Machinery Repairman School ( machinest) in early 1990 was wrong. I never thought to research it myself. Again thanks for correcting this.

Irondragon Forge & Clay said :That's great, just remember to listen to old guys, because they know stuff.

I have a question. Is it a good idea to use the "L" suffexed stainless. The "L" stands for lead that was included in the mix for easier machining. I would think that the lead would leach out and contaminate any food stuff that was cut plus the lead fumes during forging.

Nice job on the repair.

Similar to arftist, Drill thru holes in 1/4 inch flat bar and strap across feet.

I have never worn a shilling.

And a Fire extinguisher is allways a great idea as well.

In my experience, tobaco knives need to be a good bit more spring than hard if that makes sense. I haven't seen a field yet that did not have rocks of some form and size. When you cut thru the stalk, you will strick the ground a lot of times. You don't want it to bent or break. The cutting action is more from the velocity and thinness of the blade. When we sharpened them it only took a few swipes of a file to be good to go. No recommendation on steel is being made. And think of the spike as just a nail and a sheet metal funnel.

Well... That would explane a lot. Black & Decker has been poor quality for years.

I have just placed an order for the cone mandrel and the 50 lb swage block from your web site. I would like to thank you for manufacturing these. I have been looking for a small cone and I thing this will work right nicely. Have a great weekend. Look foward to using them.

You might see if you can locate this refractory. It is from India. It is working very well for me as both hard face in forge and for the multi-port burner that I use. Whytheat-K is 60% alumina hydraulic bonding refractory Dense Castable, which is use for service temperature of 2912°F (1600°C).

I bet that is like living in a sand blast cabinet.

Thank you both for the input. I did not think about the floating grit issue.

I have thought of that, but, it looks like scale and grit would be more likely to be brought into the screw box from the front where the lead screw goes into the screw box.

I undrestand that this thread is old, but, I just used this basic method to repair my post vice. My question is is there a purpous in the screw box being closed on the end. It looks like it would be easier to clean and lube if it were left open on the back side. Any thoughts on this.

Yeah, But only thru Fleebay

Please wish him a Happy Birthday and a heart felt Thank You for his service to our country. Hope he has a wonderfull day.