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I Forge Iron


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    Cranbrook BC, Canada
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    Making things with my hands is the short version, I like chalanges and thrive on new information

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  1. Trevor84

    First tongs

    Not saying you need it but here's a blow by blow I put together last year.
  2. Trevor84

    First tongs

    Hey J, 165 deg steak on those tongs they were my first projects as well, you can't do nothin if you can't hold that hot metal. 5hrs is just fine! When I forge tongs they are usually from 3/4 to get the meat in the boss buuuuut I haven't got to welding reins so I spend the most time drawing and symetrisizing the reins. Having the reins flex different than one another tends to torque out the nibs/jaws and you fight to keep things inline especially if you get them a bit warm. The knife speaks to me, at first glance it seems odd to have the tang come that far out but on second glance it is quite elegant and I bet that would fit nice when you choke up on it for slicing and dicing (in the kitchen) Maybe it's an Asian pattern..... I like it no matter what
  3. Those links are straight to the pdf downloads so if you click on it don't be surprised if it starts downloading
  4. It appears that I left out half of the thought. That's exactly what I was trying to say aparantly I stopped halfway through the thought.... It's brought up here often so I wasn't surprised when he tried discourag me. The more a person learns about the stuff that makes up the refractory and how to read the data sheets the easier it is to start seeking out new products. There's this pdf floating around Google from Morgan Thermal Ceramics called the refractory handbook or something. It has the data sheets for all their products and has them categorized by type as well as good descriptions at the beginning of each line of product's explain their properties and applications. I don't know if I am allowed to post the web link to it though. If it needs to be edit out I'll gladly do it. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.mha-net.org/docs/Harbison%20Walker%202005%20Handbook.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjRm-qjlpXxAhUQu54KHU6pDZ8QFjACegQIEhAC&usg=AOvVaw080BetQ2ggzPyE1nth4YeM That is a HarbisonWalker pdf I just found, I haven't had a chance to read it but it looks informative. Hopefully these li k's to get me in trouble https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.morganthermalceramics.com/media/7699/morgan-advanced-materials_thermal-ceramics-product-data-book-e-version_2.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj838Hgl5XxAhWPxZ4KHe0KDKQQFjAAegQIHRAC&usg=AOvVaw16kGQxha_xxZAZj6K6oYHz
  5. Well JM that is impressive like is often discussed here the rep I talked to in the past about unicast swore it would not hold up in less than 3" pours. I figured it should work the same as mizzou for a hot face because they're quite similar but I would not have expected a 1.5" brick to hold up to a drop like that, I've split 1.5" clipper dropping it before. 10 min warm up ain't bad, it looked like you have it fairly thick in there. I do have a container of ITC 100HT, it's finally come down in price $70cad at princess auto. I also have a bag of zirconia flour to play around with and compare. Thanks for taking the time for the review ☺ What you describe with the flame dancing on the floor is how a couple of my forge burner combos work, once the interior starts to flow the flame slowly gets closer and closer to the flame port. One forge in particular I don't use a flare or nozzle just the mixing tube into the 2" port, there's enough pressure that when hot the flame is literally at the edge of the port basically leaving a cold black spot inside where the burner port is. Hard to take a pic of that.
  6. Hmmm equally important is to read the entirety of something if you want to learn, Doh. Thanks pnut
  7. Oh me oh my I do like the idea of these, what a simple way to add independent control with less bits than adding multiple basic needle valves. Tapping the out I get but do you modify the in? The one in this pic is m10*1 in and out do you cut new threads on the in side for 1/4" plumbing or are you using an adapter? Thanks for this tip Mikey
  8. Juicemiser, 1 month down the road, do you have any updates? I just ordered a bag of this Uni-Cast 2800 as well and wondering if there's anything you'd do different next time? When it comes to the flame..... It's a "Frosty Tee" I tend to get thrashy tips to the flames like that and the extra orange in the exhaust flames could be from the calcium burning off the refractory (iirc). I do believe there is some tuning to do, the greeny blue flame = fuel rich this is also supported by the excess blue in the exhaust flames. I assume by now you have figured this out in other posts, if not then we need more pics and specs of the burner.... Frosty is obviously the one that knows best on his flames Great thinking with the inflate-A-form I've been thinking of doing something similar but with spray foam if I ship one.
  9. Wow that went sideways! It took me awhile to figure out how to source material over in BC. What search terms to use what to look for in products that have a different name etc. Now I know that if you can get ahold if a guy in one of the shipping warehouses they can usually hook you up with something. Just like that unicast. If all I could get was the unicast I'd just go with it. It will armour your wool you just got to make a bit hotter of a burner etc. Tge last random stuff I grabbed was called kalakast adtech at or something..... 60 percent alumina dense castable but has a bit of agragate. Anyway so far so good, it just doesn't heat up like the kast-o-lite. FWIW
  10. Since covid refractory suppliers are getting shorted as a lot of the product comes from the US. Search for PSH pottery supply house they sell k2600 HS "high strength" I haven't used them. This company also sells high alumina kiln shelves as well as Bentonite and zircopax I have not attempted a wash yet though. Keep in mind when you look at the k2600 in cad it's like 12 bucks with conversion you aren't too much more expensive than US. span widgpan widgetC
  11. No ya I remembered incorrectly I had remembered you had said something about them but got speed stuck in my head instead flow and resistance. So I remembered something that you didn't say. Ya now see I put this together for Facebookers though, you are thinking about it so this is like Frosty's 3/4"x8 not Mikey's 7/8"x9 (I've seen them go back and forth over that) Ratios for different sized burners correct. EZ burner .75x2 = 1.5 so 1 1/2" to 3/4". My 3/4 Mikey has 3 openings 1/2"x1"x3 gives me 1 1/2" total opening. Same goes for the orifice depth, I thought it was Mikey a few years ago that said it was .5 x the id of mix tube or it was 3/8" above the throat which is give or take that .5xid. All the burners I have had success with tend to use this depth.
  12. I never thought about it in this way but said that way I get a good visual, like if it was water instead of air it would swirl just like a toilet. I had envisioned it like two waves slamming straight at each other and tumbling down the mixing tube side by side but nature doesn't work like that. Something has to give and once it does it continues towards the path of least resistance in this case that is chasing it's self down the mixing tube.......... At least that's what my brain thinks it's seeing I haven't tried contemplating volume yet, I love math but I am not good at figuring out what I am trying I am trying to calculate. I reference the surface area of the intake's opening/mouth but I am guessing I am saying this wrong. That reference is just based off the measurements taken off the main burners out there. You often see "that guy" with the 12" mixing tube with a 3/4"-1 1/4" reducer for a flare, 2"-1" reducer for the intake then 1"-3/4" bushing ("that's all the had") and then they have the orifice jammed into the throat and wonders why it's not working. If you tell this guy he needs to start over he ends up hooking a blow dryer to it and perpetuates the BS builds. If I throw numbers at him so he can pretend he's making I up as he goes, he basically ends up with something close enough to a real burner that he sticks with the craft and doesn't run around calling some blow dryer mash up a Frosty T.
  13. Shall I call you Phil? You are right on the money, it's like you were standing over my shoulder watching me curse.
  14. The first time I tried the ball peen idea was back in the beginning before I realized how much steel shrinks as it cool and got the peen too deep and the dang flare locked on. I had to cut it off and put a nik in the side of the peen it doesn't affect anything but it bugs me.
  15. The surface area of the intake's opening be it linear or ejector, add up the area of both sides of Frosty's T or Mikey's burner they are similar I believe at least last time I added it up IIRC
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