Trevor84

Oh don't you worry, I promise that I will come running with some confusion soon enough... I started school last September, college classes after 20 years out of school. I hadn't even completed grade 10! Through disability I was blessed to have financial support, (even if I did have to debase myself and fight tooth and nail). I am taking the human service worker certificate, its a one year course but that's BS! Every instructor says that it should be a two year due to the course requirements. Blah blah blah! The first semester was rough but got me two B's and a C. I just finished two heavy classes (counselling strategies and case managment) A- and a B+! I struggled, from chronic pain from degeneration and constant muscle spasms and then the massive emotional journeys through my life. LoL, Yuup, human service worker, blacksmith, rocket tryentist. I hope you are doing well aaaaand I am working my way through redesigning my little shop. I am almost finished my 2x72 grinder and then I will be servicing the old ir ovens! You happened to catch me at the perfect time... I just walked into the shop full of excitement and aspirations for some productivity. Now I feel obligated to to hurry up and get caught up now that I blabbed about new tools and shop designs. Ear plugs are going in, smock is going on and my goals are specific! Sincerely, Trevor (Lone Tree Forge) Ps, if I don't reply for the day it is because I have become hyper focused and on task.

Tungsten carbide files, that makes more sense than the diamond ones.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=UIRp5VJrQqM&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE The left side reacts the same whether the brick is in place https://youtube.com/shorts/wcusMZY5Gz0?si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE Sorry I moove so much. Using a needle valve on each burner makes a lot of sense, good point ☺

Hey Mike the left burner wants to blow like crazy, the burner I have to choke like foghorn and the weasle. The burner on the right seems to react like normal in a cold or hot forge while adjusting choke and as the forge heats up you can open the choke and the flame reacts normal looking. The left burner wants to blow the flame right off and all over the wall across from the burner ignites like a magician chucking a blue fire ball. No slow sloppy blue flame but as if the burner want to blow through the wall. I'm trying to upload a video I to YouTube to share the link.

My latest, chainsaws bar stock removal with a hand carved maple (maybe) handle. Wrought iron bolster and pommel.

Wow I gotta lot of catching up to do but I wanted to shine this magic mistake and improvement. I shared these 3/8" 0.4mm mini burners before but couldn't get them to overcthe pressure in the forge and ran rich. I trimmed a half inch off the back so I could get the orifice a bit deeper, then I tried clamping the tube in the vise horizontally and proceeded to cut the threads deeper buuuuuuut the side I was tapping ie backside of skiny supports and the threads locked and I twisted the intake. Oh the tragedy, the failer the oh, wait it twisted straight..... Seriously the overall profile of the 3/8" tube stayed straight as an arrow but with a twist. These tiny burners are hard to take pictures of but these two changes were repeated on the second burner first try (crazy maniacal laughter) These run hard, loud and hot! It looks like I have Flares on the end but they are only spacers there is no over hang the flares are shaped into the refractory. I have to stop plumbing my burner's together this close, I always end up with one side running a lot harder. Does my plumbing at the burners look like it could cause a kind of cavitation (?) as the gas splits at the last T? When I plumb like this there is always one burner that goes whomp, whomp, whomp so the one burner has to be choked right out until the internal temp is up. Or it's just what happens when you try to duplicate something, which is why we use the chokes eh... Yes I'm Canadian EH. "swirl" ummmmmm I wish I could see the effect my twisted intake had but these are so small it's hard to photo. I mean I wonder if and how much the twist changes things, I guess if I went from rich to vavoom I must be on to something. Mikey I really like the baffle concept to adjust secondary air.....

I've used straight beeswax on metal like bbq tools or other items that you're able to just rub against the block wax in the past. The first 2/3rds of the Johnson's can was used by dipping stuff like forged snails, leaves, key chains etc (I wasted lots I'm sure) On my hammer handles and other wood in the past had been wiped down with BLO and terpentine. I leave my hammer handles with a rasp finish, fibers burned off and oiled while hot until oil refuses to absorb. I was surprised how fewer blisters I got and the increased hammer control. I'm out of beezwax, BLO and terpentine so now is a perfect time to invest in a few new products. Carnuba wax definitely sounds like a common denominator here. Frosty, ya using what's at hand was the goal this time and the Johnsons was scraped up out of the drip pan and stuffed into the can, it had a mix of beez wax in it already so I figure wth soften it up a bit more and use a stiff natural brush instead of a rag. My hands are clumsy now so I fumble cold things.... I don't like fumbling hot stuff ;-)

Go figure the raw linseed and terpentine mix that I put on before posting here still leaves an oil sheen on your finger when handling the wood. I'll have to pick up some new supplies next time I'm in town thanks guys for the tips so far . I found an old tin of Johnson's paste wax and thined it a bit with terpentine and a blob of that raw linseed..... So far it seems to have left a decent medium dark finish on the metal bits when applied at a light sizzle with a brush..... Time will tell, I'll shoot a pic later if I get some mounted. Good Thanks, I am reffering to raw linseed not boiled, I believe raw linseed is basically flax oil. Maybe i have to get the flax oil from the health food store.... I do know that flax oil is used on cast iron because of the polymerising and can withstand something like 400*f once its fully polymerised. As for the finishes on my materials I should have been reading more along the way I just got carried away puttering ..... Please don't think I asked a question then ignored yawlls advice.

No of course we don't eat our Coates geez you're silly. I bought the the raw linseed for a couple cast iron pans I want to season so I had it there and like the colour when dabbled a piece of this wood, that's the only reason for food grade coat hooks (not goat hooks) Orange oil, I don't mind spending a buck but isn't that stuff like gold necter? Carnuba wax eh, I'll have to look for it next time I'm at the store, thanks Do you make this feed and wax or us it a premixed

Oh good morning out there, I haven't done nuthin yet today but I have a quick question to start the day. I'm about to get these finished off today, wink wink, I have oiled these boards with raw linseed oil/terpentine mix. For the steel coat hooks, should those be clear coat or should I just mix up linseed beeswax terpentine mix for them. If they are indoor use. (Blo polymerises quicker right? But raw linseed is food safe I think?) Bare steel, Linseed/beeswax/terpentine, Clear coat,

Well I just need to seal the wood and clear coat the hooks. These boards are 18" long so I will pre drill and counter sync holes to match 16" centers. This is old dimension one by four so their a solid 1" thick rough cut fir (maybe) and weathered so I ran it through the big planer quick and light but left the edges rough, the roof screws holding the hooks are just shy of punching through the back side of the boards so should hold pretty darn snug.

I read this back at the beginning of this thread and I can't agree more I to "don't waste a good bend over". Pick as much up as you can while you're down there because you only got so many "stand up's" in a day eh.

I will be adding on to the bench/shelf once I formulate a full plan. When I talk about wrists and arms youll have to stretch your imagination and pretend there are bricks tucked under his elbows. I'm struggling to fully visualize it myself but I'm thinking something that adds to the "minion" look. CI.... The floor is about 4"x12" and about 7"-8" so let's say roughly 400CI.

Ok that makes sense thank you....

Oh it's "sunlight" dish soap with enough water that it'll spray. Like I say I've got a small shop so it's easy to have it sitting there and since I'm always swapping around burners and forges I just spritz them before I spark up. This must be a real stupid question but can you smell the oxy? Can an oxy leak ignite like propane or acetylene or does it disperse fast enough? I don't use those kinds of torches so I really am curious.