Trevor84

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About Trevor84

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cranbrook BC, Canada
  • Interests
    Making things with my hands is the short version, I like chalanges and thrive on new information

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  1. I tell you what Frosty, if you're ever in my neck of the woods I'd be more than happy to let you tinker-tune my forge.
  2. Yes Frosty, welding them in place would definitely inhibit adjustments. self imposed subconscious impediments can be a blessing and a curse. Next time I light it I'll see how much I can get that angle to change and see what happens.
  3. Thanks Mikey, so far so good. I definitely understand the tweaker/tinkerer. I already see many things I could tweak with this design on the next build. I still have my wooden middle so reproduction of the body will be easy but the next will probably be bent out of thinner gauge metal instead of welding plates together. "tinkering": I've been taking things apart since I can remember. Them remote control cars go fast when you wire a stack of battery packs together. They also start to smoke real quick too (sorry mom)
  4. This shows how the flame glances off the floor into the wall with a bit of the swirl. If I built this again or re line this I'd give myself more room to angle the burner. Other then it impinging at the joint? I do have a nice area out of the direct flame face.
  5. Hey frosty, if is any consolation I did make a new handle to fit my meat hook After refractory in the entry port I was left with limited ability to change the angle of my burner unfortunately The flame hits just past center kinda then swirls up the wall, this pic shows it a bit better. Yes I radiused the corners, there not perfect ovels but not square either. Mr Moose, I was worried at first at how hot the outside was but it's seeming to be a non issue. General consensus seems to be, "they're forges, they're hot in and out".
  6. Well I used a couple strips of wool ridgidized between where the forge meets the floor. I've put a few hours of "work" on this setup and the outside gets hot but the stovw paint is still good so I know I didn't reach 600f so that's good I don't have individual videos but I tried a few different burner combinations and the 8" mixing tube and 0.035 contact tip seem to work best. I get a nice thick stable flame at all psi from 2.5-30. With THIS FORGE I run 5-7 psi for basic forging temp and 10psi for warm up. With the choke wide open I'm a little lean with a just a little bit of orange dragons breath, half choke gives me a little reducing and a bit of blue dragons breathe with orange at the tips. And since the flame is basically invisible once the forge is up to temp as seen in the pic below I have limited photos of the actual flame. (I make reference to the psi just because that's how I've been taking notes so I can duplicate apx temps) My review so far, this forge is hot and heats up fast (10 min to YELLO interior) it is relatively quiet and holds heat quite well once warmed up, between heats and after shut down. There's minimal dragon breathe so more hair left on my arms I wanted my first project in this forge to be a hammer but with most new projects you have to make new tools first eh so I started with a punch and drift (made from a big A$$ 1976 Chevy tie rod end) Thank you all for your tips and help, I think this forge is a WINNER. This video was taken 5min after start up, any later and you can't really see a flame just a goast outline of it. This hammer is store bought just the punch and drift are new.
  7. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    I hear ya Mike, I wasn't sure if there were many concepts like this or if was worth talking about in this thread. I will definitely share my results and thoughts as I attain them
  8. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    (call me CRAZY) It may be less efficient but my thought with this type of D shape is that one could sit it on bricks in different arrangements and use it like a mankel / armourers hybrid forge with a crane arm like Frosty's shop forge. I have not read much about this concept I'd like to hear your thoughts on an adjustable D shape forge.....
  9. Trevor84

    My new forge

    Nice start up kit right there. I'm no anvil expert but I do have the 110# version of this anvil and have been quite satisfied after I dressed er up a bit. From other reviews these anvils have intermittent QC so some have voids or bad/inconsistent HT but others are great. Mine is in between, 70-80% rebound on 3/4s of the face with one softer spot that's around 50-60% rebound. I guess this would be similar to the "Italian Pig" style anvil. Nimba makes their anvils after the same style FWIW so I guess these are kinda like Nimba nock offs.
  10. Thank you for the compliments on the burner and forge build, I think you guys have put me at ease about what I thought was a bigger issue. If other forges get that hot on the outside I'll just lay down some gasket and use the heat to warm up my lunch. I was just surprised at the heat so my ADHD kicked in and I hyper focused on that point. (ADHD = blessing and a curse) I'll relax and BREATHE then put some miles on this in a couple days then report back.
  11. Thank you I do appreciate your approval of the burner I definitely pulled it out of Burners 101. The unrigidized wool is sandwiched to the steel body so I'm kinda stuck with it for now.......oops I shoulda spent more time in Forges 101 I guess
  12. Ya I figured that question would be about the same as "will this 3/4" burner work for my forge" without knowing whether the forge is 300 or 800ci. I used 400 mililiters of colloidal silica rigidizer from a pottery store. (what ratio they mix it at is unknown) The inside layer of insulation would be 10x20". I'll play around with this more in a couple days, see what the gasket does then trim metal off the bottom if needed. Thankfully I only have 4day weeks Thanks for you patience with these silly questions guys. I thought I was on track with this build until I got to here and ran into this heating issue and now I'm kinda panicking. I know exaust heats things up but this seems excessive, anyway I just need to BREATHE and work through these steps ONE piece at a time.
  13. I guess that's a silly question because each forge will be different. Sorry typed before I thought.
  14. I did not rigidize the first (outer) layer of wool or stick it to the body. I did rigidize the second (inner) layer though. How stiff would 400ml of rigidizer make one layer of wool? Say if I left a 1" tab at each end of the bottom lip should that hold itself possibley?
  15. Ya my welds aren't the best, I've got no worries that I made a boiler if that's what you mean I just keep hoping that the steam is causing extra heat. But if that's not the case and the gasket doesn't work then I'll be trimming the steel. I would trim a big strip off the bottom lips but the thought of the insulation dropping out when I move it worries me.