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About Trevor84

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    Advanced Member

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    Cranbrook BC, Canada
  • Interests
    Making things with my hands is the short version, I like chalanges and thrive on new information

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  1. Bustapepper I'm not sure if you've found him yet But Shawn at Front Step Forge in Edmonton stocks some of that at a pretty decent price. I bought 2' of 1045 2" round for $60, my local supplier quoted me $1,000 for 4' of the same, I understand some mark up but seriously wtf
  2. Melvin, thanks for these now I have more formulas to look at and wish I could decipher them :(. Seriously though thank you I try to gather all these links I can in the hopes that if I read enough of them they'll start to make sense one day.
  3. "I try and I made it" William Kamkwanda (movie "the boy who harnessed the wind") It may not be a blacksmith quote but fits in this craft. If you start with a positive mind set you can accomplish a lot. This kid cobbled together a windmill from garbage and saved his village during a massive drought.
  4. Trevor84

    Bottle Opener Tongs

    Well thank JHCC thank you for this and I really like that bottle opener. I will be making a set of these tongs soon I had been trying to think of a new tong for these openers, also I'm glad I have finally seen a set of reverse opening tongs. I've thought in the past that there has to be a use to this type of reverse opening now my mind can rest....... for a little bit.
  5. Oh boy, Frosty please tell me you copy and pasted that and don't have that memorized I don't think I could handle the jealousy of the knowledge you posses. Seriously though that's a great run down and example. I study what I can when I can but I am not the best at it so I really appreciate the little blurbs like this you and others share here. Ok back to reading I go
  6. You know, you guys helped me and I then trickled that knowledge down to help many others over on FB. Lots of guys don't listen and take the easy route but then there's a few guys that listen and solve their problem be it forge, burner, other project. I'll spend plenty of time communicating back and forth and then when they get where they want to be I give them a "like". You could have done the same and I would still be happy with my results but you went one step further and validated the time and effort in a way that put a smile on my face. It may sound sappy but that meant a lot, we all can do that for others, it took what 45 sec to type out but I'll remember that every time I light my forge. If we all did the same the world would be a much happier place. I will try and carry this message forward
  7. If you like watching videos better you could search Habermann tongs and there's a video from Joey van der Steeg that is what I tried to copy when making these, so if you're on here THANKS Joey.
  8. Good day folks, I've been here awhile but have contributed little to date so going forward I'll try and work on that. This is my second attempt at this style of tongs and I managed to snap pics of most of the steps I took to forge these so I figure I might as well throw them up here and maybe someone will benefit. I warn you that this may not a perfect how to but it may give someone enough reference to muddle through their next pair of tongs. Also if anyone has pointers on what I could do better next time regarding the build or the "how to" I am open to advice. I think these are deemed Habermann bolt jaw tongs but I can't vouch for that title so let's call them 1" bolt jaw / V bit tongs. They'll hold 1" square and round, 3/4" square and round and 1" flat stock Material: two 10"x1"x3/8" mild flat stock, 2 1/4"ish mild round for rivet Tools: (I used) hammer of choice, guillotine with butcher dies, 1/2" slitter, 5/16" round punch, 1/2" drift, top and bottom V swage and for the rivet I used a bolster to upset one end before hot fitting in the tongs. Mark at 1" 2.5" and 3.5" Draw out reins to desired length and thickness but stop when you're 1/2"-1" away from boss. (mine are 12-14" and terminate at 3/8" round) Isolate 1" sq draw out and round the edges of this section just enough that you can get a clean 1/4 turn/twist Now you need to chase and forge down the ridges left by the twist be careful to avoid cold shuts while roughly squaring this up you can see these are still only roughed out, don't get carried away here yet Isolate your boss but only set down 3/4-2/3 again don't get carried away Forge the opposing corners into the boss, let the boss upset a bit Bend backwards just after the boss, say 30deg kinda nip the backside of the bend, this helps tighten the bend and I believe it helps reinforce the bend as well Bend the remaining 2/3rds forward and nip the back again Forge your nib into the swage I skipped a pic here but before opening up the boss take a heat and tweak the angle of your reins so the nibs kind of line up with the inside of the reins and bend the nibs backward a scooch as seen in the next pic, don't focus to hard on the angle as you can adjust that once the rivet is set and you're hot fitting to stock size. I put a 1/2" slit inline with the boss, punched out the rag, drifted to 1/2" then used the punch to countersink to 9/16" (the 1/2" rivet will go in easier when hot and then upset itself to the 9/16" Check alignment with a cold rivet Set your rivet but don't finish it yet and then with the tongs laying on their side tap the jaws back and forth at the second bend to center the offset (if that makes sense) Offset centered Heat the jaws and boss, grab your desired stock and clamp the nibs in a vise and then squeeze your reins together to the desired spacing. Pay attention to where your reins are in relation to the jaws, you want them adjusted so the stock is inline and centered between the reins. (this is where the nibs get their final tweak as you clamp them in the vise) This may take more than one heat to get them where you want them but once there finish peening your rivet at heat and work the tongs open and closed to keep everything tight but moving freely. BOOM done easy as that (When it comes to hot fitting the tongs and adjusting the reins just do this the same as any other tongs (I'm struggling with how to explain this part)) One of the hardest lessons I learned when making any style tong is to never finish any one part until you know you won't be touching it at heat again. Take the section between the nibs and boss, if you finish that section 100% before isolating your boss then every time you straighten or tweak it you will be getting thinner and thinner. Same goes for that section of the reins that blends into the boss, if you finish that last 1" and then go back later to work on your boss you may find that section has been set down too far and you're left with a week spot. In short try and have each aspect complete at the same time as the others......
  9. I think I have seen those up here, if I build another brick forge I'll definitely look for those again. It's sure is fun to see the look on peoples faces when you give them a good reference of the heat we're creating, a lot of people don't really get it when they think of hot steel by itself but their eyes really pop when you explain that your forge is hotter than is needed to cremate a dang body if built right .
  10. Well said and thanks again. Next I am going to take a crack at your burner, not that I want to replace mine but I just like building these things it makes me feel like a mad scientist
  11. Like PSI my description of color could be off, I really want to get myself a thermocouple just to see what temps I hit with my forge just for curiosities sake kinda like my pressure gauge in the beginning was used to calibrate my ear now I need to calibrate my eyes. I was running hot whatever the color was I know this because my stock was heating faster then I could swap it out for the piece I was working on...... But I wasn't that surprised when it felt tacky due to it being mortar like you say, I need to run it a bit more before I really say yay or nay on this stuff. The the supplier was quite confidant that this wouldn't happen as he sells it as a flame face in other applications so time will tell right.
  12. I've read this on their site too, I have a tub of this Unibond33 and used it to smooth out my brick floor that was pretty beat up. Now I haven't got to many hours in since coating the floor how ever it did seem to start getting tacky where the flame was coming in contact with it once I started getting the forge into the upper orange range. I'm hoping that since I laid it on thick that it was some form of residual curing needed but anyone thinking of this should test it out before going heavy on their whole forge. Only the spot right under my flame was like that the rest seemed solid so either my flame is REALLY hot, it needs to still vitrify or you don't want it as a flame face but it's too early for me to say one way or the other.
  13. Thanks Mickey I was pretty excited when I seen this shoot out that hole, with no way of knowing exactly how it would react was a little nerve racking since you don't get an easy adjustment when it comes to cast refractory. I should try and order something like if not that sooner than later, I would have by now but things are just a scooch harder to source in Canada I'll contact Glenn and see what happens thanks for the tip.
  14. You know I said last time I was here that I was going to do just that....... I failed thus far Now that I have this burner and forge running well I'm starting to plan out my next build, I get as excited about building forges and burners as I do forging. I'll try my hand at a write up and create an actual post here not just throwing pics onto FaceBook, FB is good and all and there is some good info on there but when I need to learn I come here and creep. I guess I should finally join the party and maybe give not just take I've spent most of my time here in "the past" reading through old posts mainly on burners and forges, I'm going to start cruising the active threads and seeing whats's what I think I have a few recent projects that I could share.
  15. Thanks Frosty. The first 3 pics are new the last two are old/original. This is an old pic of the burner I threw in for reference, I moved that gauge back when I was first building this based on your advice. I don't really use the gauge anymore like you say the sound will tell you where you're at, I did like having it for reference in the beginning and I only use the numbers for description to others but point out the orifice I use too. More often I describe my settings by percentage instead again for other peoples reference's. I'll run around 30-40% throttle for warm up and heavy stock and general forging between 15 and 20% After learning about burners here the whole PSI thing has kind become a pet peeve TBH. People are like FA is the way to go, I weld at 3psi when I had a venturi I had to use 20psi" they forget to mention that they tripled their orifice size and that they are actually using more gas