Les L

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Chris, That style knife is perfect for skinning, you can split the hide in 1/2 the time as someone using a gut hook and never touch the meet or guts (you make all cuts from inside the hide). I can use that knife to skin and debone a deer in less than 30 minutes. I don't think the shape of the bird's head would be a problem, when I'm skinning I have my index finger on the side of the blade, my middle finger is doing most of the grip, at the guard, and I rotate the knife around it to change direction of the cut, back two fingers are very loose with the end of the handle resting in the center of my palm.

That will work

Great job Chris!! Drop points about that size are my favorite knives, they are all I use for dressing and de-boning all my game.

I'm planning to build a treadle and tire hammer in the future and have been keeping my eyes open for material I can us on the build. I noticed a large plate, with "something" welded on it behind a friends shop rusting away and asked about getting a piece of the base plate off it and he said what size you need? Called me an hour later and said it's too thick for my plasma to cut, I asked him if he had a #4 torch tip and 1/2 hr. later he called back and said that tip cut that plate like butter, come pick up your plate. 2 pieces 2ft x 4ft x1inch plate loaded in my truck for a handshake and a thank you.

Nice looking knives, I'm sure they will enjoy them.

Billy, I like the pattern you have, it will look good on several different projects. From what I’ve read and seen on other posts I think that the chain is able to get hard, but you’ll just have to test the material you’re working with to make sure it’s what you’re looking for.

Thank you for clearing this up for me. It’s going to be a while before I have a chance to to try it, but it will be the next twist I try.

Another great video, thanks for posting

Golfishunt, beautiful wood work and a good looking knife. One thing I would do different with your backing board is trim the end of the board to match the curve of the blade point to keep the file from hitting the wood and messing up my bevel.

I think you’re forging just to try to stay warm. I’m at 58 right now, low of 41 tonight, but high of 70 tomorrow. It’s been this way all of our “winter” this year. We can’t get adjusted and everybody is getting sick

JHCC, the design is very creative, great job Jennifer, that is nice!! I can’t wait to watch the video, there’s a lot of people on FIF that needs to watch it too!

Very good looking knife, I like the low count pattern. You did good on the sheath also

Will it be slick when you’re hand is sweating? I would find a hammer with that type of handle to try before I started making my handles from it

CGL, good work deserves praise. Jennifer, I used a coal forge for all the work except the twists and used an A/O torch with #4 brazing head for that. I use the forge for short items I’m twisting, but these are 4ft long so I chucked them in the vise and put a support under them to keep them straight while twisting. Thanks for the compliment.

My dad used to tell everyone I had a pilots license, every time I passed by a table I piled something on i bluerooster, don’t forget to leave room under it for something to catch your ashes

When I was a very young kid I can remember my dad cutting them with a cold chisel and drilling holes, for hinges and legs, with a hand held hand crank drill to make a bbq pit. There’s not many people around now with that much patience.

Thanks CGL, I’m just starting, but I try to do my best on each project and then seek advice on what I messed up and how to correct it, then improve the next one. I’d still be beating and banging and making a mess, if I had managed to get my coal forge started, if it wasn’t for the wonderful members of IFI who give their time to help us and the members of my blacksmith club that do the same. You do wonderful work also, I’ve been seeing improvement in each item you post a picture of.

I take it as a complement on my work when she does it and it forces me to do another one and get in some much needed practice.

I made two outdoor fire pokers, and the hooks to hang them on, this weekend, that I had a 2 sales for. When I finished them I showed them to my wife and she took one to give to a friend of hers for a birthday present. I told her I had it sold already and she said "not this one, the next one you make is for you to sale" so back to the forge this weekend to try to get caught up. This is the second time she's done this to me, I told her I'm going to quit showing her my work.

Good job on a nice looking set of stands.

Chris, shade 10 or 11 will work for you, the #3 under the hood won't make much difference. For the 1/8 plate you'll be using 3/32 or 1/8 rods, for someone just starting I would recommend 6013 3/32 rods for 1/8 mild steel, if your welder is A/C, 6010 if it is D/C. I use a #10 mirror lens in the hood I use for pipeline welding with stick and a #11mirror lens for mig or tig . I don't use the auto lens, (my co-workers tell me I'm old fashioned)

Sad news, prayers sent.

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