Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

Welcome to IFI...I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST

Here is where the information came from. http://www.bamsite.org/books/canedy.pdf

You might want to check out a product called Ballistol. Designed by the Germans for use on firearms. I have found it works very well on forged steel and protecting equipment (anvils & vises). It dries clear and dosen't effect the patina at all but protects it against moisture & rusting.

It doesn't show up in the Buffalo Forge catalog #801 1929 either, or the Champion catalog #80. It might be helpful to know where in the world it's located. https://ia802801.us.archive.org/14/items/BuffaloForgeCoCatalogNo801/Buffalo Forge Co Catalog No 801_text.pdf https://ozarktoolmanuals.com/wp-content/uploads/pdfcatalogs/Champion_Blower_Forge.pdf I think I have found it in the Canedy-Otto Forges & Blowers catalog # 8 (no date) listed as the Leader Forge #11 for $14.00 U.S.

Not me but my wife. Debi finished a project she has been working on. She found a sapling when fly fishing that the beavers had cut down and stripped all the bark from it. She wanted to make a walking staff for hiking. She decided on what is called a Stang for the top. Started with a piece of 3/8 X 1 inch about 10 inches long flat stock. She split one end and drew out the limbs then formed the socket (her first one) to go on the staff. Then she welded in a small cup to hold a crystal and shaped the limbs. Quite a few firsts for her and I think it came out nice. She also did the forging in our coal forge and learned to start and maintain the fire. She also used the power hammer to draw the socket out.

If I came upon Stanley in low light, I would be looking for a tree to climb. Crocks are pretty cantankerous and aggressive. I spent many an hour in the Florida Everglades as a young man hunting & fishing and always gave them a wide berth. Stanley borders on magnificent.

Another thing to remember, is to always pick up tongs you have been using from the reigns not the bit. Once I was doing a project using the drop tongs movement. When I picked up the tongs from the bit they gave me a very painful reminder about that. Pulling tongs from the tong rack by the bits will also bite you.

Great I wasn't hungry until reading this. Now I'm going to raid the fridge...sigh.

Consider it done...

You will find that combination will work very well. We built our forge the same way. A 20 pound propane tank, 2 1 inch layers of ridgized kaowool, a half inch of Satanite and then bubble alumina all around over the Satanite. The only difference is the burner, ours is a single burner Gaco kiln burner and it reaches welding temp in no time. 20 pound propane tank forge in progress - Gas Forges - I Forge Iron

For the past several years the top die in our Star power hammer would work loose and the keys had to be driven back in to continue working. Today I decided to remedy that little aggravation. I reground the dove tail to better fit the hammer then forged better keys front & back to hold the die securely. (sorry no picture) Then because the trade item for our BOA meeting this month is a trivet, I decided to make one from RR spikes. The power hammer worked like a champ drawing out the spikes and I didn't have to fiddle with the die..yay.

My thoughts exactly.

Been a while since anyone has posted here so I thought I would make a trivet from RR spikes. Drew the shanks out, hot punched the holes, hand forged the tenons and riveted them together.

It will be useful for filing, twisting and anything not involving hammering. A leg vise is designed to take a licking and keep on ticking as far as hammering. A cast iron bench vise will not. I highly recommend picking up a post/leg vise for most hot metal work.

You might want to resize your pictures to say 500x375. We have members world wide and a lot of them have to rely upon dial up or have to pay for band width. Large pictures eat up band width and take forever to load for them.

Welcome to IFI... Knowing where in the world it's located will help with ID, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show location. This thread will help you get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST

Yes, so have I. I interpreted the poorly worded question to mean constructing the complete forge from firebrick though.

Hi Mike welcome to IFI... We won't remember that once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show location. READ THIS FIRST

Fire brick is not suitable for a brick forge. Adobe brick will last a very long time, depending upon how the forge is constructed. The fire area (table, fire pot and tuyere) is made from steel/cast iron) with the brick used as the support system.

Welcome to IFI Maria, I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST

I retired second in command in 2013, after 29 years on the job , hammering on hot steel kept me nearly normal.

Unless your bench is free standing, bolt it securely to the wall.

Have you checked them with a Geiger Counter yet?

Yep... a 50/50 mix works just as well as Kroil and a lot less expensive.

Hi Greg, welcome to IFI. I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST