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Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

2023 Donor
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Everything posted by Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

  1. When I blew up the second image, the edge is a different color than the rest of the anvil and I see the arc bead of a stick weld.
  2. You will probably have to fabricate one. Welcome to IFI... BTW: Have you read this yet? It will help you get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST
  3. Well done SmithingWitch, ya one upped all us old salts. we were honestly stumped.
  4. A wire wheel on an angle grinder may take some of that old paint off the side. May reveal at least some of the Trenton diamond or other logo. Also knowing where in the world it's located might shed some light, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show your location.
  5. It looks like someone has welded up the edge to me. I would probably pass on that one too, unless the ring & rebound was good and the price was fair. What does it weigh?
  6. We won't remember this once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show location. This thread will help you get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST That anvil looks to be in good shape and if the rebound is as he stated and it rings consistently over the face, I would say $4.60 U.S. per pound is not outrageous for your area. I say the rings consistently because if someone has welded or heated the face it probably has lost some of it's hardness. This has been seen with anvils that have gone through a fire too. BTW: According to AIA serial number A24136 was made in1920.
  7. Also pictures would help to set a price. BTW: Welcome to IFI, I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST
  8. Would love to see the steps making that. It's great and life like. I would mount it on a plaque and hang it on the wall.
  9. When you post it, resize the picture to 500X375 so it dosen't take up so much bandwidth and take forever to load for our members who have to rely on dial up or pay for bandwidth. Have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST
  10. Use your favorite search engine and do this search without the brackets (bloomery site:iforgeiron.com) you will get 261 hits for you to go over and every question has been covered.
  11. I've used Kasenit quite a bit to case harden old flintlock parts like the frizzen and other lock parts and John B is correct, it's really that simple.
  12. That includes YouTube videos for folks who like to be mostly misinformed. For blacksmithing videos, stick with the ones that are recommended here.
  13. I have one like that too. I use it as a go-no go gauge when seating bullets in precision ammunition.
  14. Welcome to IFI... Have you read this yet? It will help you get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST I can't tell from the picture, what is that out of the top of the burner? A daylight picture of the forge & burner would help. What make forge is it?
  15. Hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show your location. Welcome to IFI... I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST
  16. Work to the "thickness of a worn shilling" a typical blacksmith tolerance around the start of the 19th century.
  17. Great find. I believe you are right about the handle, all I've seen had wood for the handle. Looks fully restore-able to me.
  18. Welcome to IFI, have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST
  19. Glad to have ya David. I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST Looks to me you are off to a good start.
  20. Actually you said "had to turn it down a bit". Don't try setting the pressure with the shut off valve, that's what the regulator is for.
  21. 40 psi is way too much pressure to try & light the forge. Try backing it down to around 5-7 psi. I would move the gauge to the regulator. I notice you have used Teflon tape around the threads. Is it rated for propane? Might check to see if some of the tape may have come loose and is blocking the orifice.
  22. I would also use a hard face refractory over the rigidized Kaowool such as Satanite, bubble alumina or Kast-O-Lite 30 then a coating of Plistex or Matrikote.
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