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I Forge Iron


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    Weaverville, NC

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  1. Don't worry about 5/8 being too heavy. Most people consider it standard. I start from 5/8" x 8" blanks to make just about any set of tongs I need. I learned tongs a couple of years ago from Dave Custer at Campbell Folk School.
  2. I'll definitely do that and with the next batch I make. At first for the forge weld at the poker end I was folding over the end, welding, and then splitting. But that made it too time consuming and difficult to position on the horn to get a nice consistent poker end. Now I just forge a taper, make a scarf, tack weld it with electricity, and then put it in the coal for the forge weld. I've sold and given away about 20 or 25 of these since the fall.
  3. Typical wizard. I keep trying to make them and my dragons look fierce but apparently I have the curse of the happy/goofy wizard and dragon face.
  4. I've done very well with fire pokers this past fall and into the winter. I think it has to do a lot with COVID and people are spending more time time relaxing at home and want to do it with style. I'm going to have to try one with a wood handle. How did you fix the handle? Is it glue only or is there a pin that we don't see? Here is what I have been making with variations on the handle and twists, and sometimes if I have the time for it I cut Rubik's twists. I see you are in Lincolnton. I'm located in Weaverville.
  5. I recently made this as a submission for an art scholarship which didn't pan out. Feather pattern 1084/15N20 blade with brass, copper, sambar stag, and curly maple. This is also the knife that taught me to always put a pin through the tang. Frosty, I'm sorry that we never met last summer when I was up in the Big Lakes area. I stayed with friends on Crooked Lake which inspired this knife, which I call "Crooked Lake." It is one of my humble offerings on my newly launched web page. OR
  6. I am Harvest Gap Forge. I wanted a "place" name. I was 14 when I named it and didn't want to name it after an actual place because who knows where I will end up living. I'll be able to move my business anywhere just about - maybe not the plains or the beach - but that's ok. I like the mountains. Harvest Gap. It is a great place that can be anywhere because it exists in my mind.
  7. I've made a set or three of tongs from rebar, and still have one that hangs on my rack that is useful at times. I will say that rebar is far better for bottle tree stands than it is for tong making material.
  8. Great score! I've been sort of looking for a swage block like that - happy to see they can still be found for a reasonable sum. You might onsider connecting up with the state ABANA chapter Phillip Simmon's Artist Blacksmith Guild. There are a lot of active hobby and professional smiths in your area. The next state meeting is Dec 7 in Greenville, SC. Also, the American College of the Building Arts has running classes in basic forging and they have special topic workshops too.
  9. Find a local welding shop. Most have stock to sell and are often willing to get you some bars delivered when they put in their next order.
  10. The tools are clean. I have a grinder and can touch them anytime. I think that I am just not keeping the tool cool enough and it is upsetting just enough to get stuck. I also made my own bee wax linseed oil lubricant. I am using a tire hammer which does hit fast, and I'm realizing there are a few tricks to the technique. I'll play around more with the geometry of the tool too. I have to get a few axes and hammers ready for a craft show ASAP so I am going to get them done and open the eyes with a striker. I will come back to this soon, however. I also think that there is not enough space between my dies, so I am going to think about making a shorter bottom and try to get some space this way. Brent Bailey is great. I met him at SBA Murphreysboro last year where he along with a couple of others helped me make a 3 1/2# rounding hammer which was the second or third time I did something like that.
  11. What I did tn the shop today: I stuck these together and have a specific question about it over in the Slitters/Drifts category.
  12. I have made between 15-20 axes and hammers punching with a striker and a reformed ball peen hammer for the punch and I've never had any trouble. Now I am trying to make top tooling to for power hammer. So far this is my result. The larger piece is made from Hi-Tuff and I realize that I made it too big and I guess I shouldn't be surprised it got stuck, the smaller one is 52100 and I expected that to work. (Actually I expected both to work). Axe material is 4130. What am I doing wrong? Is there a basic technique difference between punching under power, or am I going wrong with the tooling. The tool is stuck pretty good in both pieces.
  13. I got a near new TFS 250# for a price that was too good to pass on. It is basic but and I can't complain. 1" hole to fit my bottom tools so I didn't have to make new ones. That's a consideration. It is my first new anvil and my first shop sized anvil. They are available and if I remember you can get a 300# double horn from them. An anvil that I like a lot is the 220# Perun Artisan Anvil with the drawing table. Blacksmith Depot has them in stock for a reasonable price. Dreaming, I would design one similar to that but with a double horn and weighing a lot more than I think that would be ideal.
  14. Vinne Barbarino, the anvil surfing Boston Terrier. He is a little more comfortable on my new shop sized anvil
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