HarvestGapForge

Members
  • Content Count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About HarvestGapForge

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Weaverville, NC

Recent Profile Visitors

207 profile views
  1. I need to get one of those "Caution Air Intake" like you see on jet fighters
  2. I finally got around to building a stand with scrap lying about. I have transported this forge 3 times now and it has around 100 heats on it. No cracking. It was a great learning project.
  3. My summer has been busy with travel but I have finally gotten around to getting my coal forge operational again. Super sucker with 10" pipe is working just fine. 90 degree coming off of the box, 4' horizontal run, open T connector, then 10' of vertical to well above the roof pitch. I still need to secure the top section of pipe and put a small hood or lip on the box. I might mess around with the opening size. The opening is 10 x 10 square, so I might make it smaller or experiment with a smoke shelf or just reducing the volume with bricks to see if I can get it better. But for a first fire on an 80 degree day, I am super happy. Thanks for the advice! Put on your best Doug Marcida accent, "It will suck!"
  4. If you went with the DF burner I'd guess that one medium would be all you need. I used a double small set up in a forge only a little bit smaller and they were overkill. This is your first forge - it won't likely be your last!
  5. That is a great looking cart/frame. Hard bricks .... switch them for soft bricks and coat them with some IR. Regardless what the instructions say, a thick layer of Matrikote is great on soft brick. The Devil Forge burners are great for their price. One problem I noticed is that the burner tips are welded on and they seemed a little flimsy. After some use the flares can flare out so much that if your ports are tight they will get stuck inside of the forge and it becomes a chore to switch them. There are tons of great burners available. I am currently using ones by mathewson metals. They are as good as any and are priced attractively. High temp tools sells all inclusive burner kits as well. I don't know if either shop ships out of the US.
  6. PS. My first propane bottle forge is working great. Door is on and I am welding just fine. I wish I would have built it clam shell style so anyone making a bottle style might consider this. It was a fun learning process and there definitely will be a next time! But with a blown ribbon burner.
  7. Thanks. I'm inclined to try it with a T. I've got a dilemma. I have 10" pipe which was drawing OK enough with a side draft. I'm tempted to use my existing pipe and cut the intake opening smaller, but I do have a large fire pot. I mostly burn coke. So my dilemma is to go with what I have which might or might not be good enough, or spend the money and switch over to 12". The "want to do it quickly and cheaply" side of my brain is fighting with my "spend the money and do it right" side. Arguments please.
  8. A couple of years ago in another thread Frosty said this: Use a T on the outside 90* one arm points downwards the other upwards to the rain cap and the horizontal run from your hood enters the leg. Envision a capital T on it's side coming out of a forge hood. How this works is first it prevents cold air from filling and blocking the stack so your hood will draw as soon as warm air enters it. It's other function is to give down drafts an easy route out, they'll go straight down rather than make the turn and travel horizontally against rising hot air. Lastly it eliminates the need for a rain cap, any that falls in will just keep going very VERY little will make the turn and flow horizontally. I have a sudden need for a new hood (my long term loan side draft was recalled ) I'm going to build a super sucker that will have a 4-5' horizantal run. Can anyone comment/post pictures and in general give advice about using a T at the bend instead of a 90. I like what Frosty says here - going with a T sounds like it would solve a lot of issues for me.
  9. I finally finished my first propane bottle forge. Two 1" layers of wool, home made rigidizer, several layers of satanite built up to 1/4" or maybe a little more, bubble alumina floor about 1/2", and topped with 1/8" of Matrikote. I have some high alumina kiln shelf that I cut to size and will use it on the floor also. It is running with two mathewson burners which I can run from 20psi (but why?) down to about 4psi. It heats quickly running it at 10-12 psi. I think my average forging psi will be between 5-7psi and will back off to one burner for small stock. It looks like it will forge weld running around 12psi or so. I am going to borrow a temperature probe to get a better sense of what is going on. I still need to build a stand and put a front door on it. I went through the curing process patiently and I have run 5 or 6 full heat cycles and have no cracking. I'll see how this holds up and then start planning a ribbon burner. I used wool because I want this to be portable, but I think on the next one I will make it from Kast-O-Lite.
  10. OK. I won't mix. Pictures and operational report to follow. When I can get around to it!
  11. I think I have more bubble alumina than I need for the floor. Could I mix that up in the satanite too or is that wasteful overkill? Any experience there?
  12. I've successfully built one burner brick with metal frame forges and now am working my first 2 burner 20lb propane tank. Typical two 1" ceramic blanket build as I want this to be lighter weight and somewhat portable. I have a large quantity of Satanite and no Kast-o-lite and I'd rather use up what I have and not purchase more product. Most of you seem to be recommending Kast-o-lite now and I'd like to understand why. Do I have it correct that both will work just fine as a durable liner (the floor will be thicker than the walls and flat with bubble alumina, Martikote on the top) but that the satanite will end up acting as more of a heat sink? Which might end up being a good thing? Using two Matthewson burners. I have been using one of theirs in my brick pile and am very, very happy with it. Also, general critiques welcome. This will be my primary gas forge (until I make a ribbon burner) and will be both for shop use and occasional travel for demos.
  13. Frosty, Can you explain why, at the end of my original post, the user tags for FB and instagram are replaced with "xxx"
  14. Thanks for the warm welcome! Later in the spring, I am going to be taking a tongs making class at J C Campbell taught by Dave Custer. I have read through some of his posts on this page. Talk about going on to big things. Yes, I am spongeing, and intend to do so for the rest of my life. Everywhere I go there is always something to be learned.
  15. 1) Name: Owen Riedesel; Harvest Gap Forge; 16 years old. Member of ABANA, NCABANA, and the Appalachian Area Chapter of Blacksmiths. I consider Bristol Forge group to be my home forge. 2) Location: Weaverville, NC near Asheville. 3) What type blacksmithing do you do, what do you make: I am learning as much as I can from colonial to modern. Tools are an interest but I enjoy all types of forge work. Knives and Damascus are fun to play with, however traditional blacksmithing and welding feels like the better track for me. Later this year I am going to take two classes at John C. Campbell Folk School; tong making and lighting. 4) How and when did you get started in blacksmithing: Boy Scout camp in the summer of 2016. I had a super fun instructor who gave me a great starting point. I was 13 at the time. 5) What object or thing did you use as your first anvil: I bought the Harbor Freight special. For what it is, it is great for starting and I still use it as a striking anvil. Now I use a 123# Hay Buddin, which is on loan, but I am looking into a new Perun in the 250# range, probably a x2 horn but I still like the traditional London pattern. 6) Tell us about your first forge: It was a home built coal forge. Tire rim with some cast refractory and a hot tub blower for the air. It worked, but a few months later I had bought a gas forge. Now I use gas and coal. 7) Who assisted you or encouraged you in the craft The act of forging metal encouraged me. My parents are a huge support. My first mentor was Craig Smith a retired surgeon who taught me basic forging processes. Soon after, I met Paul Ludquist who is teaching me techniques as well as the business side of blacksmithing. In the summer of 2018 I spent over 200 hours in my shop with John Matthews. He taught me good fire control with a coal forge, and took me back to the start and refined my basic processes using the ABANA curriculum (that is ONLINE for FREE so ANYBODY can use it, AND it is BETTER than YOUTUBE!). He has also helped me with shop layout which is very important but often overlooked. 8) What event changed your attitude about blacksmithing I met Paul Lundquist at a weekend class at Mayland Community College in the summer of 2017. Even though I was only 14 he took me seriously, loaned me a post vice and anvil, and wanted me to be accountable for my work. This was a very important event as I realized that I wanted to be serious about metal. My first hammer-in at JC Campbell Folk School in the fall of 2017 was a step forward in terms of being accepted and encouraged by established smiths. My dad and I constructed a shop in the early months of 2018. Later that year I went to AACB Murfreesboro Conference and the ABANA National Conference in Richmond VA. 9) What tool has changed or made your life easier in the shop Getting out of the garage and building a stand alone shop was huge. Purchasing a tire hammer from Raymond Head was huge. But shop life would really suck without a band saw. They are a seriously overlooked tool. 10) What advice would you give those starting out in blacksmithing: It doesn’t take a lot to get started, but once you are started, look out! Seek out local forge groups. Get to conferences and events – seek out transformative events. Take yourself seriously and set goals. Learn the history and traditions, but understand WHY you are doing WHAT you are doing. Always start a forging session with a habit such as make round to square, square to round, make a leaf, make a scroll, etc. Right now I am into making nails as a warm-up drill. ALWAYS have a plan or goal for the day. 11) What advice would you give those already involved in blacksmithing: Just because you have seen 999 “kids’ wanting to “be a blacksmith” and then you spend hours with him or her, and then they quit on you, doesn’t mean that your effort is wasted. Don’t be bitter about that – you gave your time – you know the chances that you were taking. Remember that every once in a while it will stick. And for the “kid” that it sticks with, that is the future smith who will be demanding more of you and pushing your skills and making you be a better metal worker. Remember that, regardless of the age that you started smithing, you were a “kid” once too. 12) What are some of the interesting things that have happened to you in your life as a blacksmith. The metal is an excellent teacher in its own way; it has given me the belief that I can do anything that I set out to do. Aside from the work of blacksmithing, the people I have met, the places I have been to and hammered at, and the friendships that I have made around the forge are the real interesting things. They are priceless. If you have bothered to read this far, you can also find me on Facebook xxxxxxxxxxxxand on Instagram at xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx