LeMarechal

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About LeMarechal

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  1. Thank you all for your responses, my firepot is about 8" wide and 11" long, but only 2" deep. Lenght and width seems to be ok for my projects. i`m usually working with stocks 1" to 1,5". 2" in thickness is a seldom thing. I´m not thinking about working with heavyer stock in the next time because: The products I want to produce for the moment must all be portable by hand, hope this describtion make sense. I want to sell this things on christmas markets. So everything must not be to big and heavy. That´s what I need my firepot for... Well, my coalfire is working well i.e. get all stuff heated up in an adequately time. But I´m just wondering if I can improve it... BTW... what do you think are the marks for a not deep enough fire? Greetings Sascha
  2. Hi to all the blacksmiths out there, is there a rule of thumb how deep a firepot or a fire(coal) should be to get the three zones in a fire? With the three zones I mean, oxydizing, neutral and reducing zone... Greetings Sascha
  3. Hi Steve, yes I searched there for notes on case hardening, may be that I´ve overlooked something. I am knowing about the general correlations between hardening, tempering(colours) and the danger of inproperly heatreatment - in relation to tool steel. But this thing with case hardening, especially with case hardening compounds like Kasenit, is realy new to me. I´ve red somwhere that the thickness of the hardened layer is only a fraction of a milimeter, more like a hard coating (case hardening mild steel). And so I asked for tempering because I never heard anything about it in relation to case hardening, using compounds. PS: If I´m using aloyed tool steel I don´t touch it without privious reading the product data sheets of the manufacturer.
  4. Thank you all for your comments!!! @JohnB, ok, then I will try not searching difficulties where things are easy (hope this joke works in english). You know, in much cases there is something that sounds very simple an easy, and if you try it out you will see a lot of these little things you have to know, in order to be successful. And so I was a little distrustful.... But now I´m a bit smarter. Because of the low thickness of the hardened surface, tempering is not an issue... right? Greetings and thanks once more Sascha
  5. Hi Thomas, thanks for the tip. I´ll try to find a copy soon. I found here an case hardening compound that seems very similar to Kasenit. There is only a very short -how to- on its packaging. Something like: Apply at red heat, wait a little and then take once more to a heat, then quench. Ok, if it´s just how it is then I´m ok with it :) But I can´t believe that things are so simple??? What I like to do with it is to surfaceharden some easy tools like leaf crimping stakes or hardy swages with simple shapes. I wonder if I have to keep the piece at redheat for a while after applying the compound. Because After strewing the poder on there is a crust on the piece and the longer I keep it at red heat temperature the crust disappears gradually. Is that good? If yes, how long should I wait befor quenching? You see realy basic questions :) Greetings Sascha
  6. Hi to all the blacksmiths out there, got one or two little questions about case hardening and I hope someone can give me some enlightenment I´ve heard that there should be a loud cracking sound if you make the final cooling in water. Ok, sometimes I got it, sometimes not. From what does this cracking sound depend on? And is it important for getting good results? Usual heattreatment needs different tempering, depending on what is the final use of the work. If it comes to case hardening is tempering necessary too, in that case(pardon the pun)? And finaly: what is the right way for case hardening? Polishing the piece/ red heating /applying the case hardening powder.. and then??? Greetings from Germany Sascha
  7. Making two leafinghammers, some clover-leafes and my first hardyfuller Leafinghammers are inspired from Mark Asperey´s books and the fuller has been made using the headingtool in the same books.... Yes I´m a great fan of Mark
  8. I will try to get some photos of my forge today. Glenn, that were exactly this points I would like to get more information about. Thank you very much. If I came to other blacksmiths or some demonstrations I tried to catch skills about how to manage a fire in real life. But on hammerins it is a little confusing to see how the others work their fire because, like Thomas explained above, for demonstrations you need an other kind of firemanagment than at home, if you're alone. On the other hand it must be said, that you can see some very absurd things on meetings. Once I met an experienced smith and he had a forge with a very flat firepot and nearly no coal in it, supplied with far to much air, he called this a "nice"sharp and fast fire. Everything he was working on during his demonstration burned and he got excessive scale... but he was happy with that- I was very irritated after that meeting
  9. a 5 hours yourney here stands for an adventure that requires a lot of planning and prearrangments. You know, you have to take the car to the service station, to be sure that it will survive such a long trip. You have to bring yourself to the doctor to get all possible vaccinations (cholera, yellow fever etc). The insurance man has to update your life insureance.... Make a will... Get enough food for the trip, not least - enough water etc etc etc... You see, things are a little little bit different here - - :)
  10. Ok that all helps very very much.And it calms me down to see, that there is indeed not that one answer to that question. Calms down because sometimes I thoght "I´m too stupid to look for" Some of these thoughts you wrote above came to me, but to hear that from other and much more experienced people makes me more confident on my own way. The last week I made very much tongs. And for this, I found it well working with that constant air supply. But if I do some tricky and frickling things, like trying out something new, constant air makes now sense I thoght. I´m happy to see that I wasn´t too wrong with that. One thing I have to work on, by stopping the airblast or reducing the airflow, is to remain myself cool while the fire heats up again (hope this pun works ) Meaning that I often become very impatient during waiting for the forge reheating. That leads me to overdo the air supply, resulting in to much scale, to much heat and so on... @Thomas I´m from Hamburg... completely other direction Far far away
  11. Hi Glenn and Kevin, thank you very much for your welcome. I will take some photos next time to post it here Glenn, thank you also for this well done explanation, I completely agree with you. While horseshoeing is mostly done by taping the horseshoe slightly with the hammer to make it suitable for the hoof, moving the metal during a blacksmithing process is something completely different
  12. Hello Everyone, this is surely on of the absolute basically questions. And you can trust me, I´ve tried to red all about coal forges hat I was possible to find out there. But for this single question I couldn´t find an answer. Let´s imagin that the fire in forge is started well. My forge has an electrical blower and the firepot gots a throttle to adjust the airflow - the breath of the fire No the question: If I heated up my stock to working temperature and move it to the anvil to work on this piece, what should I do with the airstream throttle while I´m working on the anvil? Should I close it in meaning cut of the airblast and until I put the stock back in the fire, and then open the throttel again? Should I close it only a little bit until I´m back from the anvil? Or should I adjust the throttle to a point of balance (between the airintake and the temperature I want to have in my fire) and after that adjustment, the thottle should stay at this point the whole time I´m smithing? You see it is realy a beginners question, but it is one that unsettles me since years ... Are there any rules or recommdations that anyone like to post here? Thanks Sascha PS.: Don´t wonder if my English is awkward... this old german english
  13. Just new here on IFI I like to introduce myself in short. At first : living in Germany I hope that my English is not to bad I´m farrier since 20 years and since working with horses I always was interested in real blacksmithing. After the last years I built my shop little by little, making more and more tools etc. All this with help from tips I read here on this great forum. Greetings from Germany Sascha