LeMarechal

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About LeMarechal

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  1. Hi Chris, do you have some example pics of items wich are leaving black marks? I would be interested in how these surfaces/coatings are looking. Greetings Sascha
  2. Hi Anvil, First of all I like to thank you for your endless patience for answering all these details. I guess you're right. I just have to get more experience with this technique particularly with such tricky items like these roses petals. As I posted earlier, with simple objects everthing works easy and fine. What I also really wanted to ask, if you clean up your pieces with alcohol, do you have any "dirt" in your cleaning rag? When I put alcohol on a new and clean piece of some rag and rubb the piece the rag still stays clean. Shouldn't I have at least a little black stuff in my cloth? Greetings and once more thanks
  3. HI Anvil, you're absolutely right Yesterday I found that I got a problem to hold the right temperature. On the stem of the roses everything works fine, because the material is still longer at "blackening-temperature", because of its big amount of material. The stem was matte black and not sticky as you discribed above. Oki doki so far... However the petals are from 1,5mmm sheet metal and thus they have only a little mass. It doesn't matter how hot I'm starting, it seemed that everything cools down faster than the blackening effect occurs. If I heated up the petals again , carefully with my torch with a very low flame, I ended up with a crusty glancy finish looks like plastic May it be, that blackening is not the best choice for this project
  4. Hi Anvil, thank you for answering. I tried it out now and yes I got a nice dark brown/black colour. But I also got a thick glossy film on the surface, not sticky but hard like laquer. I´m sure I that I applied to much of the BLO/Turp Mix. Therefore I tried it out once more today. I attempted to wipe only thin layers on the metal and that seemed to produce better results. But this rubbing with denaturated alcohol didn´t change anything. Am I yet to hot(not me but the metal ) during I´m applying the liquid? Or is it still to thick? 1000 Questions I know Greetings Sascha
  5. Anvil, do you have some example pictures???
  6. Anvil, Ok thank you, that makes things clearer. Lacquer is a fine thing, but the most products I know become very hard after drying what makes it very possible to get spallings and scratches. Another problem what I'm seeing with lacquer is that the most lacquers need minimum rounded edges, to cover them well. On sharp edges like at the rose petals, lacquer will flow away a little, so that maybe a door for rust... ok, probably not the biggest problem for interiors:) But this scratch and spalling thing is ugly, even on clear coatings. Think the good old oil/wax- method has its advantages here...
  7. Hi to all, thank you so much for all the good ideas!!! I think these two last ideas with BLO or WAX aplied to the warmed roses will be, what I´ll try first. Anvil - You describe that cleaning with alcohol step. What is the reason for this? Wouldn´t that rub of the coating I have just put on? And at least, if you say "buffing" you mean buffing by hand with a piece of rag or so and not excessiv work with a buffing wheel? Greeting Sascha
  8. Hi to all out there, just making twenty of these steel-roses. However, the more I'm comming to the end of the job, the more I'm asking myself, what kind of coating is the best and how to apply. I got a very nice beeswax/carnauba mix here. But how should I wipe of excesse material between the petals? Or should I use a lacquer coating. But how to apply this, between the petals to prevent rusting there? What would you recommend?
  9. Yes that's right! He makes very fine tool and it is difficult not to get into a shopping spree :) ... The original hammerhandle is a round and massive one. Even though I got very big hands I don't like big and round handels. But, you know, after paying all the money I felt a little unhappy to touch my new toy with my farrier rasp so far... But yesterday ,time of protection ended and I reached out for my rasp and gave it a few strokes here and there. I like a little thinner handels of a more rectangular style and I was suprised how the feeling changed after that little corrections. Now the hammer is much more comfortable and I will try it further a while and come back here... Ok, that the handel should fit the individual blacksmith's hand are not the latest news but it seems that sometimes one have to rediscover long known things Sascha
  10. As promised, photos, photos, photos. Brent made the peen of this hammer dead flat with rounded edges, I gave it a slightly crowned form but it is very slightly. I think the weighted side is well visible.
  11. Hi Pnut, Thank you very much for your thoughts. Before I'll write anything more,I like to point out, that I definitely do not want to say anything bad about Brent and his work! I'm only searching for other people and their experiences with these hammers... Pnut I agree with you with all you wrote. Meanwhile it seems to me that such weighted hammers aren't useful for peening. Even though I noticed the boosting effect during moving the hot metal, the hammer feels surprisingly heavy in my hand. I have another 3.2lbs hammer, a balanced rounding hammer like (Brian Brazeal) wich feels much "lighter" and moves the hot steel similary fast and aggressively. I'll take a photo these days Greetings Sascha
  12. Hi folks, I bought a very nice hammer from Brent Bailey. It's one of these Aspery modified types. This is a weighted hammer, meaning that the handel is not in tye center of the hammerhead. The faced side is much longer than the crosspeen side. It's a little bit like a japanese hammer. Personally I'm feeling a little uncomfortable with its crosspeen side. It feels very difficult to control this boy during hammering. My question is if anybody else have sone experience with it? Greetings Sascha
  13. He to all you blacksmiths out there how do you get of scale if you have a complex shaped workpiece? For example let´s say you make a forged rose and after shaping the petals with an oxy/fuel-system you will stay there with scale on all your beautiful shaped rosepetals. How would you clean up this? Hope you understand what I mean despite my bad english Greetings from Germany Sascha
  14. Hi to all of you, let me thank you for all these helpfully tips. Yes the backingsoda works fine. I got some white vinegar 10% from a foodstore here, let the pieces some hours soak and then place it in the backingsoda solution. No Rust!!! After wiping off the BS-solution I went to my big wheel wire brush and remove the loose rest of the scale. So I got very silvery and shiny, surfaces. I noticed, that the pieces will rust(on air) after a while if I didn´t wire brushed them. The other pieces, wich I brushed to silver :) did not rust until now (3-4 days). I experimented a little with oxidation/no oxidation. So I got some nice coloring by putting the pieces back in the acid after!!! I wire brushed the things to this silvery shine. Only for short and with no wiping off the liquid. Let it air dry and look what happens... Greetings Sascha