LeMarechal

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About LeMarechal

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  1. I'm using vinigar of 10%. Stored in a tub of plastic. Works fine over night. Maybe that the salt in your mixture does eliminate some of the power of the vinegar? But I'm not a chemistry, so that must not be true...
  2. Hi John, Tank you very much for the description! Will try it out next time and show the results! Greetings Sascha
  3. Could anyone give a little instruction how to make these kind of twists? Thank you very much Greetings Sascha
  4. Much, much thanks to all for all the ideas... I will play a little bit with the length of the arm and its "springiness" .... if I got a moment or so. If I got further findings... I´ll be back here, with photos :)
  5. Thank you all for your responses. Like I wrote in my topic description above, this was not my first try. As you wrote I believe too, that the lenght of the clamping arm must be longer for a better function. But then it's to long for my anvil. For a better understanding here a photograph of my little anvil. It's an 160lbs anvil of what we here in germany are calling a northern germany style. You can imagine that a longer holdfast may be a little bit impractical So it may be that I have to choose an other way. Something like Thomas suggested seems to be one option to try out. Do you have any pictures of that?
  6. Hey there, this was not the first time I tried to built one of these easy holdfasts. But I wasn´t successfull. It doesn´t matter if I tried out mildstell or some toolsteel with or without heattreatment. There must be one big mistake that I´m always overlooking. Or the principle of this kind of holdfast doesn´t work with my anvil, because the two holes (pritchel/hardy) are to long because they are crossing the anvil to near at the body, if that make sense...? Here two pictures of the last two styles: I would be very pleased if anyone could enlighten me Greetings Sascha
  7. Hi Chris, do you have some example pics of items wich are leaving black marks? I would be interested in how these surfaces/coatings are looking. Greetings Sascha
  8. Hi Anvil, First of all I like to thank you for your endless patience for answering all these details. I guess you're right. I just have to get more experience with this technique particularly with such tricky items like these roses petals. As I posted earlier, with simple objects everthing works easy and fine. What I also really wanted to ask, if you clean up your pieces with alcohol, do you have any "dirt" in your cleaning rag? When I put alcohol on a new and clean piece of some rag and rubb the piece the rag still stays clean. Shouldn't I have at least a little black stuff in my cloth? Greetings and once more thanks
  9. HI Anvil, you're absolutely right Yesterday I found that I got a problem to hold the right temperature. On the stem of the roses everything works fine, because the material is still longer at "blackening-temperature", because of its big amount of material. The stem was matte black and not sticky as you discribed above. Oki doki so far... However the petals are from 1,5mmm sheet metal and thus they have only a little mass. It doesn't matter how hot I'm starting, it seemed that everything cools down faster than the blackening effect occurs. If I heated up the petals again , carefully with my torch with a very low flame, I ended up with a crusty glancy finish looks like plastic May it be, that blackening is not the best choice for this project
  10. Hi Anvil, thank you for answering. I tried it out now and yes I got a nice dark brown/black colour. But I also got a thick glossy film on the surface, not sticky but hard like laquer. I´m sure I that I applied to much of the BLO/Turp Mix. Therefore I tried it out once more today. I attempted to wipe only thin layers on the metal and that seemed to produce better results. But this rubbing with denaturated alcohol didn´t change anything. Am I yet to hot(not me but the metal ) during I´m applying the liquid? Or is it still to thick? 1000 Questions I know Greetings Sascha
  11. Anvil, do you have some example pictures???
  12. Anvil, Ok thank you, that makes things clearer. Lacquer is a fine thing, but the most products I know become very hard after drying what makes it very possible to get spallings and scratches. Another problem what I'm seeing with lacquer is that the most lacquers need minimum rounded edges, to cover them well. On sharp edges like at the rose petals, lacquer will flow away a little, so that maybe a door for rust... ok, probably not the biggest problem for interiors:) But this scratch and spalling thing is ugly, even on clear coatings. Think the good old oil/wax- method has its advantages here...
  13. Hi to all, thank you so much for all the good ideas!!! I think these two last ideas with BLO or WAX aplied to the warmed roses will be, what I´ll try first. Anvil - You describe that cleaning with alcohol step. What is the reason for this? Wouldn´t that rub of the coating I have just put on? And at least, if you say "buffing" you mean buffing by hand with a piece of rag or so and not excessiv work with a buffing wheel? Greeting Sascha
  14. Hi to all out there, just making twenty of these steel-roses. However, the more I'm comming to the end of the job, the more I'm asking myself, what kind of coating is the best and how to apply. I got a very nice beeswax/carnauba mix here. But how should I wipe of excesse material between the petals? Or should I use a lacquer coating. But how to apply this, between the petals to prevent rusting there? What would you recommend?
  15. Yes that's right! He makes very fine tool and it is difficult not to get into a shopping spree :) ... The original hammerhandle is a round and massive one. Even though I got very big hands I don't like big and round handels. But, you know, after paying all the money I felt a little unhappy to touch my new toy with my farrier rasp so far... But yesterday ,time of protection ended and I reached out for my rasp and gave it a few strokes here and there. I like a little thinner handels of a more rectangular style and I was suprised how the feeling changed after that little corrections. Now the hammer is much more comfortable and I will try it further a while and come back here... Ok, that the handel should fit the individual blacksmith's hand are not the latest news but it seems that sometimes one have to rediscover long known things Sascha