G-ManBart

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About G-ManBart

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  1. Hay budden identification

    No need...I've got thick skin
  2. Hay budden identification

    Fair enough. I opened the first picture up to it's full size, and it looked like the one chip at the front, and one near the back had sharp edges on the top side, but it could just be the lighting since metal isn't easy to get good pictures of. Obviously, running a finger over them would be worth lots of pictures
  3. Hay budden identification

    I'm not asking to start an argument...just an honest question. You wouldn't lightly dress the sharp edges on some of those chips so they don't get worse?
  4. Hay budden identification

    I recall there were changes over time in the number of handling holes, with some variation based upon weight, as well as the shape of the depression in the base. Pictures of the base along with pictures of any handling holes might help as well. You sure picked a good one to find first!
  5. picked up this old Chas. Parker Vise

    It depends on the brand/model and how the spindle is retained. The majority of vises use a set collar of some kind on the inside of the dynamic jaw to retain the spindle. You take the dynamic jaw out, flip it over, and there will be an obvious set collar. Wear to either the back of the spindle, or the set collar, creates a gap you have to take up by turning the handle. With the dynamic jaw out of the body you'll be able to push/pull on the spindle and see the slop. You can usually add a thrust washer in front of the set collar to tighten things up, or rotate the position of the set collar, and drill a new hole in the spindle for the set screw. I generally just add a thrust washer, but yesterday moved the hole for the set collar on an old Reed because the hole for the set screw was worn oblong. It can also be a loose nut in the body of the vise. Most are held in place with a pin and if the pin isn't a tight fit to the nut, when you turn the handle, the nut moves back and forth. Normally you can just bend the pin forward until it's making contact with the nut and you're set. I usually heat the pins and pre-bend them close to what they need to be rather than install them in the vise and hammer on them....all of the load is being taking by the casting of the base, and that's a bad idea. If the vise is a Reed with a split ring in front and adjustable nut stop in the rear it's a different issue...usually just an adjustment.
  6. Getting a Gas Forge

    I just ordered a Diamondback 2-burner blacksmith model over the weekend after reading lots of threads like this, and a number of reviews, and YouTube videos. I'm really looking forward to it. I might be able to help with the post vise and anvil...I seem to have a knack for finding them. I'll send you a PM.
  7. picked up this old Chas. Parker Vise

    The range is pretty broad depending upon brand, model and condition. For example, the 6" Reed swivel jaw I'm hoping to get a shot at eventually would be an easy $500 in many places and higher in some where vises are scarce. If it were an 8" Reed swivel jaw that number easily doubles. I have a buddy who has a 7" Yost swivel jaw he would sell for $750, and it could really do with having a new set of jaws custom made for it. Up through 6" models it's pretty easy to price the, but any bigger they're fairly rare and the folks buying them don't necessarily like to share what they pay for them. I nearly stole that 8" American Scale for $350, and AS is on the lower end of quality and desirability.
  8. picked up this old Chas. Parker Vise

    It may be an issue of semantics, but I don't think a true chipping vise would ever have a rear swivel jaw, for one reason; they are much, much weaker than a standard vise. A heavy chipping vise was used for rather severe duty, and it wouldn't make much sense to use a far weaker design if there was any way around it. For many/most people, a rear swivel jaw is nothing but a liability. That's why so many of them are found with the pin hammered in almost permanently, or welded in, or the whole assembly was drilled and tapped with a large bolt to secure the swivel from moving at all or the swivel jaw welded in place...the list goes on. Don't get me wrong, I'm a fan of swivel jaws, and have a couple around most of the time, but I don't see much utility for a 200+lb swivel jaw other than for very specialized applications. Heck, I'm trying to get a guy to part with a 6" Reed swivel jaw, but really just for the cool factor! I've seen a number of 7" and 8" swivel jaws that didn't have a name on them. Speculation is that a railroad, or similar company, would place an order and the companies would make them without logos....it wasn't really a standard stocking item, so they would have essentially done a special order and not bothered with details like lettering in the molds. I've seen a 7" swivel jaw that had some letters, and nobody is sure who made it....it's like a combination of three different brands, Yost, Prentiss and Reed.
  9. Saw that one as well. It's like the estate sale people don't even look at some of the pictures they post!
  10. picked up this old Chas. Parker Vise

    240lb, 8" jaw American Scale I picked up last year. Some 8" models were 300lbs+. They actually look smaller in pictures than in person
  11. Lakeside Hay Budden find

    Thanks Glenn...it was just too nice to pass up. I'll try pictures with chalk and side lighting to better highlight the details. It's marked as 130lbs and weighed just a touch over 125lbs on my bathroom scale. I don't know which is correct, but I've had pretty good luck using that scale to weigh packages for UPS and Fedex, so I'm going with the 125lb reading. I should add that it's 11 1/2" tall and 24" long overall. I'll try to remember to measure the face when I try the chalk pictures. I'm just tickled to have found it and can't wait to try it out! Experts feel free to chime in. Would it be smart to dress up the chip(s) near the table in the last picture so they don't get any worse? Slight correction on the sellers's family history. It was actually his great-grandfather's anvil. His name was Frank Peters and he was born in German in 1871, and later came to the U.S. It was his grandfather who was born in 1913, the same year this anvil was purchased. He even sent me a family photo that was taken in Beal City, Michigan in 1924 or 1925 when his grandfather was just a boy...very cool stuff.
  12. It's not like I really needed another anvil, but I saw this one, and it was too good of a deal to pass up. At the very least I thought some pictures might help someone down the road identify a similar anvil. The seller said it was his grandfather's anvil that the family believes he bought new when he went to work for the county doing blacksmithing and farrier work. According to AIA, it should be around a 1913 production, and the seller said that made sense because that was very shortly after his grandfather came to this country, and was the year one of his mother's siblings was born (an aunt or uncle...can't recall). Unfortunately, the seller doesn't have anyone to hand it down to, doesn't use it, and was short of cash. He also said he wanted to see it put to use again. He was given some bad advice on pricing, so I paid him more than what he was asking for it...only seemed fair. He was worried the chip out of the face near the table hurt the value but it didn't make me even think for a second. The right shoulder has some minor chips that should dress nicely and the left shoulder is nearly perfect. I guess that will make it more like what a lefty would like with the larger radius on the right side, but it doesn't bother me since it'll have a nice variety of radii to work with. I think the markings follow along pretty nicely with what AIA posts....the heat treat marks on the right side, the obvious weld at the waist where the solid steel top starts, inspector's number under the horn near the waist. It also has a single "2" under the horn, near the tip, which Mr. Postman mentions but has no explanation for. I've learned it's not easy to take pictures of anvils with glare and angles, but these aren't too bad. Sorry for the order of the pictures...I used my phone and redid a couple of them and the site uploads them chronologically....hence the shuffled order. Some more pics:
  13. picked up this old Chas. Parker Vise

    It's unfortunate that it was misrepresented, but it's still a reasonable price for a 5" Parker. I've had two just like it, and they weighed 105lbs, so still a very solid piece. Yours should clean up nicely.
  14. Hay budden anvils info

    I've only owned two Hay Buddens, and am not an expert on them, but have a thought or two. Can you post pictures? A good picture of the serial number (might have to play around with a flashlight and angles) and both sides? I ask about the sides because HB changed their design around 1908 and the later anvils usually have a clear weld line where the solid steel top half starts and some sort of heat treat numbers on the side opposite the logo. That would at least narrow things down a bit if it eliminates everything before or after the change. Here's a pic of a Lakeside stamped Hay Budden (1913 is what the book says) with the weld line visible, and the numbers for the steel heat treat visible.
  15. 6" Iron City post vise

    For whatever reason, I seem to be able to find bench vises and anvils without much trouble, but finding a larger post vise has been a challenge. I just got home with this 6" Iron City...looks to be pretty good, and weighed right at 100lbs. Stop two was to pick up the 130lb Lakeside Hay Budden that I'm really tickled with....looks like 1913 production, one nearly perfect edge and another with a couple of chips that should dress up nicely.