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About G-ManBart

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    Blacksmithing, fly fishing, flying, shooting, tools, cars, photography

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  1. I didn't think of that, but you're probably right. I couldn't figure out why the casting was broken, and it must be the feet/bolt holes are long gone, as well as the vise portion. Not a bad fishing weight :-)
  2. This isn't mine, but it's at an estate sale coming up soon. I don't need another anvil right now, but it looked kind of interesting. Anybody have an idea what it is, and if it's worth trying to see in person? Based off the orange cone behind it, I don't think it's very big.
  3. $4/lb isn't bad at all for that anvil!
  4. According to Anvils In America, it could be either 1893 or 1918. For it to be 1918 there would need to be an "A" before the numbers. H-B made anvils from 1892 to 1925, so if you're right, yours could be a second year production...pretty cool!
  5. That's actually a 4" vise, not an 8" vise (jaw width is the standard) and it's been beat on quite a bit. Columbians are solid vises, but don't command high prices, for a number of reasons. One, they were always considered something of a value brand among American vises, and there were tons of them out there. They also have hollow jaw towers, so they weigh less for a given jaw width than most of the competition. A heavy 4" vise would be something like a Parker 824 that weighs in at 85lbs on a swivel base. A 4" fixed base Columbian that weighs 36lbs is honestly on the small side. I paid $60 for a really nice Columbian 604 a couple of weeks ago (that's a swivel base 4" model) if that helps give you an idea of value. I'm not knocking Columbians....I have a 506 on a welding bench that's really handy (6" jaws, almost 90lbs). I've had it on Craigslist for $150 for a month with no serious bites so I mounted it on a bench. Here it's eating a 50lb Wilton C0: This is an 8" vise (American Scale No. 58)...240lbs on the scale:
  6. Since that vise originally didn't have a hammered finish, I intentionally tried to limit the effect. Thick coats that are almost to the point of running really accentuates the hammered finish, so I went with very light coats and I think it worked out pretty well. If nothing else, the new owner is thrilled with it!
  7. Hi Alan, The paint was RustOleum Hammered Light Blue...often looks more like a silver, but it's definitely blue in person. This is one of those times when the picture wasn't meant for a certain purpose, and fooled your eye. The jaws in the "after" picture are a replacement set that are made slightly wider than the factory jaws. They do that because having the jaws slightly proud of the jaw supports isn't a problem and is better than the reverse. There really isn't any softness, but there's definitely some shadow making it hard to see clearly. I've found that a key to getting a crisp edge with a flap disc or unitized wheel is using the trailing edge of the disc....have it moving away from the edge rather than into the edge. That seems to be more important than new versus worn, and I rarely put much pressure on a grinder. If light/normal pressure isn't working I'm probably using the wrong disc. I hope nobody would whack a red hot 2" flat bar with a 3 pound hammer on a machinist vise!
  8. Thanks! I didn't post it on Instagram, but I sold it on eBay, so the new owner may have. His wife sent me a note that he wanted to mount it in the kitchen and posted it on Facebook. I replaced the swivel lock with period correct (partial hex) locks after the pics here were taken.
  9. I spend a lot of time running a grinder with various grit flap discs, so I know exactly what you're talking about. When I clean up the "anvil" portion of a bench vise I run through a series of flap discs, and the exact order depends on how bad the marks are. Typically it's something like newer 80 grit, then a worn 80 grit, then a new 120 grit, then a worn 120 grit and then a unitized wheel which is really like compressed scotch-brite on a wheel. I'm planning to do a write-up for the process here sooner or later. Here's a quick before and after of a typical project....not the greatest pics, but gives an idea when looking at the sides of the jaw towers and the "anvil" area.
  10. That's a gem, and a great size too!
  11. Got home and took a couple of better pics. All I was considering doing was to remove the jagged parts to leave a rounded edge that wouldn't be likely to chip. I tested the rebound again after unloading it and it's got to be at least 85%....barely have to move your hand to catch the ball bearing.
  12. Here's a pic of the area I'm talking about...from the original CL post. It wasn't taken to show the edge, but you'll get the idea.
  13. I don't plan to do anything other than the slightest touchup where the mushrooming left a jagged edge. I'll post a picture of the area when I get it home in good light. I paid $900...pretty happy with that!
  14. The pictures don't show it well, but there's some mushrooming on the edge that caused a couple of jagged, sharp edges. I was just thinking of getting rid of the sharp edges so I don't slice myself open.
  15. I'm in PA this weekend visiting family and decided to take a look on the local Craigslist...this PW was only 10 miles away, so I contacted the seller and picked it up. The pictures aren't great because it was raining, but I'll take some when I get it home. It's marked 2-2-25 and has a 9 on the left side of the front foot, but I can't see any other marks aside from Peter Wright Patent. It has great rebound and ring, essentially no sway, and really just a bit of edge deformation that should be easy to clean up. The seller said he got it years ago when he bought the entire contents of an auto repair shop nearby that had been in business for decades....pretty cool.