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CGL, Your Husband was so sweet to reach out and get you these wonderful smithing items.. What a great assortment. Merry Christmas indeed.. the chalk is used to fill the troughs on the teeth of the files to help resist clogging and to make them easier to clean with the file card.. When you first use the files remember to push them lightly and only have light pressure in the forwards, (cutting) direction. In other words only push down enough to let the file do the cutting action vs pushing down harder to try to get a deeper cut. Filing hard scale will dull the files pretty quickly so vinegar soak or a thorough aggressive wire brushing will remove the surface scale. when you chalk the files, only push forwards with that same light pressure till the teeth are full.. some will always be dust and thats ok.. I've used baby powder, pam cooking spray and WD40 as a file lube or anti clog, but the chalk works about the best. When you use the file card use it lightly as well. Traditionally they were also only used in 1 direction and need to be kept flat to the file surface otherwise the little wires will get bent or knocked off. I started using the file card in both directions staying away from each end and this has lead to a longer life on the file cards.. I'm am more careful with the file cards than with files now. LOL.

Hi, welcome to the IFI site. There are 2 reasons to put water on top of the anvil when working metal.. 1, To keep the anvil cool (not to lose hardness in the face). 2, to blow scale off as a cleaning method.. When hot flat steel goes onto the wet anvil the water is super heated and creates steam. When you hit it with the hammer this steam will force the scale and flux to come lose. Its handy and works well. Well, there is plenty of information here and information on the JLP services Inc youtube channel.. Today there is a wealth of information online so it's a good time to be involved.

Anachronist58 I gave forging for 13 or so years after being a professional.. I thought that it would take me 6 months or so to get " back in forging shape".. that was crazy thinking.. It's been years and I'm just starting to get a little better now.. If I forged everyday for 6months I'd be in pretty good shape, but every once in 2 months does nothing for my ability. Things are about to change though.. I love those shoes.. Mule shoes? "

upload to youtube, then just post a link of the video here. That works best for larger files or larger/longer videos. This is interesting. I've been looking for a oil fired burner setup.

Wow, all that from a 3/8" mini burner.. the heat looks amazing.

that sure is a beautiful anvil.. Congratulations.. What a great story behind it.. Did you get a photo of the gentleman you purchased it from. That would be a classic story 50 years from now..

thanks John. Very kind of you to say. CGL I was pleased with how the video came out. I had edited the footage I had a week or so ago so was thankful the footage arrived at the right time and was able to put it all together. Merry Christmas to ya'll.

Sample board get lost or just disappear? I have some of the very first hardware I made and I kept these pieces as examples of progression. I used to have them hanging right across from the forge proment so I could see them. its funny whenever I pull out the very first thumblatch and show people at demonstrations.. Because their response is always.. Wow, that is a nice peice.. Something to be proud of.. I chuckle and pull out a thumblatch from the table.. then I get "Oh, well that was a good try"..

Your doing all your own glue ups and the cutting the circles out?

Alex, that is just crazy.. Sorry American expression.. That means in a good way. I don't know how you produce so much work. Do you have a custom wood cutter nearby? or do you stock wood for projects like this.. Wonderful work.

When doing build photos usually it was in reference to a special build. Extra fancy hinges. Something I had not done before or something I liked about a particular piece. I also loved when I had to make 10 of something and it showed the ganged up photos.. Install photo's for wrought iron work including hinges that go on shaped doors included. As does fitted work.. Like drops and such if the bars are continuous. Wrought iron with reference as you pointed out best showcases the work.. I did not do very much wrought iron work. Some smaller pieces but it was usually out priced in the area geographically.. The few big pieces I did were for rock stars.. LOL.. Opera singers.

So, I was able to get the video put together with footage from my own camera and then more footage supplied by Marc Sitkin. the Shop is the Moses Wilder blacksmith shop in Bolton, MA it was reconstructed from the original prints that OSV (Old strubridge villiage) made when they tore down and rebuilt the shop at the villiage as part of the Museum. Of course this reconstructed one is like new.. The owner did s stellar job on all of it.. Crazy really.

Littleblacksmith (Mark) very well said.. Kudos.. I find taking pictures to be easy. You just snap the little button.. Or push it or touch it, if there is no real button.. Composure of the shot gets easier (lack of) unless you are one of those photo snobs who has to have everything exactly perfect for their photo. I find it is the composure of the shot that is usually lacking. And unless staged most the time can be lack luster. this becomes the largest problem for most.. "How to make the items look the best".. I have come to understand the photo of the item is not the issue, but the item nearly needs to speak for itself.. I stopped staging items when I decided the item/s just has to stand on it's own 2 feet. even if not shown in the best light. I wish now that I had taken more photo's of the work completed. I got to a certain point and stopped taking photos as the work was just more of the same though I never made the same item twice once a batch was done. Well except for nails or back groups for thumblatches and thumbers. I literally never made another one of and item all ready forged and sold. I only took about 1/4 of the work ever completed.. And wish I had taken all of the pieces.. There were some neat ones that i will never be able to take photo's of.. Now the only time I really forge is during demo season or if doing videos and the work is diversified into what ever I feel like making so it is not the same. Here are the last items forged. All wrought iron the last 2 pieces on the right are steeled. Just waiting on confirmation of information before the video is released.

I've gotten A36 bars that were completely delaminated with inclusions nearly down both 20ft bars.. From the outside the inclusions were hard to see but as soon as you hit it while hot, it completely came apart. the Metal yard would not warranty it out claiming A36 one gets what one gets. They then claimed that was a batch that came from India or china and there was a shortage of A36 in the USA so everyone scampered to get what they could from outside sources. it was 3/8X 1.5 or around that size.. I find A36 to be hit or miss forge welding and it is one of the few steels that I pay attention to more so than any other when forge welding watching what is happening and adjusting accordingly. The tomahawk video was shot using A36 and it fought me right out till the very end.

wow, sounds like a great auction.. Was there a flyer from the auction house so we can see photos? By the way.. they do sell modern digital cameras pretty cheaply that don't have GPS or any connection to the outside world for tracking purposes.. I mean I know you stay away from smart phones for that reason.. but now a cheap digital can be bought at nearly any store when stopping off for beef jerky and a soda.

Looks to me light anvil is to high or the face of the hammer is hitting heel face first. Flat face is ok if one has practice.

Marc you have to have the eye shadow, mascara and lipstick as a whole package.. Of course if someone gives you tips down in Aussie territory You might die from uncertainty.

I usually look like i just woke up from sleeping in a gutter. All dirty and hair all messed up.. sometimes I even have lipstick smeared across my face.. i think it's a pity thing..

Tipping is a sign of appreciation here.. Good service or good craftsmanship, little extra reward.

Mark love the work.. Seeing clean forgings is a sign of maturity as a professional.. Great to see for sure.

I personally have never had a problem with not marking a price on items.. I have a little sign that reads " All items are for sale".. Thats all it takes.. I wouldn't call me a snob or sales snob at all.. But after 40+ years of doing it. I have come to understand that there are different levels of selling goods.. There are trinkets which today sell very well, bottle openers, key chains, leaves, heart shoes, etc, etc. . I call them trinkets because of the size.. IE easy to pocket.. This is not the market share I am after, though the sales potential is huge. The smallest things on the table are nails and drive in keepers for thumblatches.. Both will hurt you if stuck in the pants pocket. Most the work I sell is a larger item but ideally the only thing many will walk away with are business cards I go through about 2000-3000 a season.. it's also one of the reasons I get paid to go and demonstrate events vs paying to be there.. Yes, I get paid to demonstrate even at events that are sales based.. So, while everyone else is paying to be there.. I am being paid to be there.. I learned a long time ago that demos are free advertisements and that average turn around is 3-5 years.. this has proven true back when i was a pro and it still proves true today on larger project items which is the market I am after. With this said this past year I had a few demonstrations where a few of the larger priced items sold quickly and extra money was included as a tip.. If someone gives a tip.. What does this say about pricing. the items in question were priced correctly for the time and materials involved.

Congrats.

Since we are venturing into pricing. I have items on the display table.. Not one piece has a price on it.. When I am asked I give that person a price.. (Since I made the piece I remember how much time+ materials+ misc so give them a price.. If they haggle I tell them forget it is no longer for sale. If they quickly correct themselves and pony up the money. No harm no foul. If they walk away at that price I add 5.00 to the cost of the item in grief charge.. If they say they need to go and get more money I leave it at the price, but if they simply walk away when they come back it's 5.00 more. I had a 35.00 trivet on the table that sold for 75.00. Many would say that's unfair or cheating, or rude, etc, etc, etc. I certainly feel better when the item sells for the higher amount and it has shown me time and time again, that some of the items are under priced. In the early days I had a fireplace set that no matter how much I lowered the price it would not sell. 450.00 was the start asking price. after a season of demos it was 200.00, It wasn't till I got mad and started going up on price that it sold after a day for 550.00. I had a bidding war on a trivet once. that was fun and interesting. When it comes to purchasing, I don't haggle anymore on hand made items mine or anyone elses if they are the maker.. For the most part I don't even haggle when it comes to striking a deal on a used item purchase.. I will come right out and ask if the person has wiggle room.. If they do than so be it and if they don't I know where they stand and then what that item is worth to me. One aspect before I even ask if they have wiggle room on the price is to have the full amount ready.. So, if they say no and I want the product I have to be willing to fork over the full asking price right there.. If they say yes, they have some wiggle room I apologize right up front and give them a price of what I think is a fair and honest and if they take it. So be it and if not we will meet somewhere.. Again, all ready setting a price in my mind at the asking price if it's something I have wanted or need. So, the part I want to mention is not to undercharge.

Which model? The amperage needs might be lower than thought.. the new inverters are pretty good with amperage.. I have a huge 3ph 500amp mig that only uses 50amps to run.. I also have a Miller Dynasty 350 that takes a 60amp fuse. I ran number 0 from the main panel out to the shop to supply a 100amp sub panel. with the 40hp rotary phase converter it draws 400 instant amps the draw is so fast it won't trigger anything and its just a standard breaker vs motor starter or slow trip. The Capacitors contribute to the softening of the start up. The largest safety thing is just to make sure the breaker is rated for the wire used vs what the machine will use.. putting a high demand 50amp welder on a 14G wire with a 50amp fuse is not a good way to go.. Not saying this is what you will do. but the safety police will come back and tell me that I should keep my mouth shut since I'm not a paid professional electrician. amp draw, wire size for a given run, fast trip, regular breakers, slow trip, motor starts etc, etc, can all be learned online or from books.. Like anything good ol common sense is useful for sure. sounds like you have it under control.. So added the last part for the safety police.

That is going to be some pretty chunky wire to run that distance. Lincoln tombstone?