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Marc you make good points for a beginner.. Longer handles vs shorter ones.. With this said.. There is nothing wrong with a shorter handle, just as there is nothing wrong with a longer handl. As I mentioned earlier there is a huge difference between what I can swing comfortably even at my level of shape (which I consider myself out of shape, but can swing the 4lbs all day long 6-8hrs non stop).. but still consider myself not in forging shape and I don't choke up.. With this said I do change hammers a bunch for general forge work for what ever hammer will offer me the blow or hammer strike I want. The key here is again common sense and do what feels responsive.. Again, I think this thread is geared towards beginners so again.. common sense and not moving up in weight or to long in handle length.. Ok, since this was brought up it is a good point to look at also.. handle length as a function of wrist over taxing. Or getting a tired wrist.. A tired wrist is a sure sign the hammer handle is to long and or the hammer is to heavy. Or both. When I move up to the 6lb I have no problem starting out and as I get tired I choke up on it till I get to tired and just switch to the smaller hammer.. the 6lbs hammer is still swung like a regular hammer.. (this would be tough on most peoples wrists). And goes back to the moving up slowly in hammer size till the hammer is just swung without notice. where this changes in how the hammer is swung is once I get past 6lbs.. then I move the hammer in more of a straight line from the elbow and shoulder and limit the stress on the wrist, nearly punching with the hammer vs swinging it. Basically or nearly straight up and down vs in an arc. This allows for a good hit but nearly takes all of the wrist stress out of it.. Wrists are pretty small and really unsupported even compared to the elbow or shoulder and increasing leverage through an over weighted hammer or to long a handle which is basically the same thing. Marc fitting or making a shoe is a specialized task vs general forge work. 30 years ago, I did not know one farrier that was good at making anything but a shoe.. Now there are many farriers who love to forge for fun so it's a different ball game..

thanks Charles.. It's funny.. I thought your sledge handles lengths would be right in that range.. I would think for most forging people that length is the length.. I went and measured my old sledge hammer handles yesterday and they were all between 20 and 22" From 6lbs up to 18lbs.. The general purpose sledge hammers had stock handles and lengths. but the double faced forging sledges all have the shorter handles. Our handle lengths for the rounding handle and my forging handle lengths are pretty close. I have moved a little bit longer on the forging handles on the lighter hammers.

There are coal sources in your area as is a local ABANA chapter or Local blacksmith group who has meetings. they will be able to offer you the best resources information. Someone here might know of the groups around. Few years ago I had spoken to someone in Indiana and they found a source locally or the coal.. Can't remember whom it was.. Coal for the most part is expensive to ship so is best to buy locally.

CGL, nice work. You are getting there and it's really nice to see you are swaging the spoon portion really well. that can be the toughtest part to do well. what are you using to do this with? I would suggest you look at a spoon you have in your kitchen at home and look at the bowl shape.. that bowl shape is a classic working shape and is very old.. Eventually they figured it out. (I don't know the date the spoon was fully developed but it was a long time ago). it was the fork that was slow to be developed.. Seems the knife was first, then spoon, then fork in it's modern form. It's funny to that the spatula was a slow to develop form and shape only being recently set as a spatula at least from the information I have found.

Marc, that really is the way to go. Few understand the use it or lose it kind of detail. I thought I was immune to it. 13 years off has shown me different. I'm 3 years out of retirement and I'm still having to get back in shape.. I start getting there by the end of demo season and just starting to feel I am getting back some forging ability and prowess, but then I go back to forging once a month and it fades away again. I can explain it. I can even show someone how to do it.. But it is not at a professional blacksmith level. New year is coming though.

Stack it high and run the air to it.. It will all work out just fine.. DB. once you figure it out you will be happy to have a forge and it will work well.. I know a guy who that is all he used for 40 years and turned out beautiful work. I asked him why, hard coal.. He said because it was cheap and he only needed to go to the local hardware store to buy it.. He developed his own forge and it was brilliant.

Peter Wright made 2 different value of anvil.. 1st quality was scrap wrought iron put together and welded and was the premium anvil. 2nd quality was new wrought iron put together. The scrap wrought iron having been worked more and refined more so when finished actually was a better product. Wrought iron is compressible. So, the more it is worked the less compressible it is or more solid it is.

Nice.. It sure is.. If you are happy with the price that is all that counts.. I loved that video you put together.. It was nice your friend helped with filming.. Great work and thanks for answering.. pricing is tricky for sure and talking about it can be even more so..

IFC.. that is the case for many.. And many who only use it once in awhile can do a lot of damage to the hip if they use it wrongly.

Charles I'd guess your preferred length is about 15-20" long.. Out of curiosity please share the length? thanks

Keep in mind what I wrote earlier.. it does not matter whether it's 2 hands or 1 hand or even a foot hammer.. getting in shape for a given activity will indeed offer the best protection against future injury.. Most forging activities are hammer, anvil, vise related so can be the best source for getting in shape but it has to be regular just like going to the gym. Same is true for sledge work and the same.. If one does start going to the gym it's been outlined in areas to work by muscle groups.

today, especially in certain places they use hand hammers with two hands since they are not prepared for strikers.. I've seen it many times at impromptu demos. Heck I did a demo on hatchet making at a very great shop of a part timer.. I get there and they had no welding flux.. the hatchet was a wrapped construction.. who doesn't have welding flux at a blacksmtihing shop knowing it was a welding demonstration.. The owner of the shop is a blacksmith in his own right. Knowledgeable and skilled, yet no flux..

Jasent.. See here is the thing.. Good technique is learned and for a given person the endurance is a learned trait for their ability or if conditioned to function in a particular way.. I use a European or Swedish method of swinging a sledge so the hammer never goes around the back and over the head, like in a rail road film or in early forging films when working with very large forging with a gang of 10 men at the hammers. Most the hammers even in anchor making were only 6 or 8lbs. What constitutes bad form for one person is normal for another.. The problem is specific examples of form vs function.. I work with a mason who uses both hand hammers and sledge hammers daily, but yet is not a very good striker.. Not yet anyway. He has worked with Lyle Wynn and they use an over the head strike because they are unskilled strikers and need the most bang for the buck. I also have worked with a couple of teenagers who worked with me on a regular basis who I taught to swing hammer in that Swedish tradition and they could swing at any angle and move the metal like no one could that did not have experience over head with a larger swing or not.. During the story board aspect of the chisel build I took over sledge duty for one heat.. and in 1 heat completed a full tang where the other guy took 2 heats though he was working his but off. Technique was key to doing this for sure.. Technique but more important is the skill set behind the reason why I swung the way i did.. And I only use short hammer strokes.. After this demonstration for this stone mason, he was surprised how the metal moved so quickly and not once was the hammer blow straight... Proper use if the hammer and knowing how to use the hammer can sometimes be 2 different things even asked of 1 person. The ability to see the difference between what is shown, what is done and then being able to apply it can be part of the learning aspect.. But overall, if someone is asked to move outside their comfort zone physically (old, out of shape, not skilled, etc, etc) it doesn't matter how good their technique is.. they will flat line quickly.. Most forging heats are only 1minute to 2 minutes... this can get made longer if the item can be forged quickly enough to finished shape and then burnished in 1 heat then this can be moved outwards to 3 to 5 minutes when working by hand. If using a fast press or larger power hammer with large stock sizes this time frame are moot but we are not referring to this type of forge work. But for hand forging even with a sledge hammer vs hand hammer it's the same window or only 1 to 2 minutes.. At some point I have videos in the que for both sledge work, file work, welding work. But they won't happen anytime soon. Anyhow, While the discussion of this is very complex because of peoples experiences it always comes back to the same factors for all this blacksmithing work. Knowledge, skill, applied skill, forging prowess and physical ability. (In shape, both mentally, and physically to be able to apply the work needed to the object. )_ There is a reason why every video produced has mistakes in it, and why I always choose to upset or do harder ways vs easier ways for the video. If something looks to easy most will dismiss it as impossible. If made to look to hard no one will ever try it.. but to see someone make a mistake which we all do, then to pull it back around it can show a difference. Well this is the hope at least.. But, apparently i maybe missing the mark on the videos..

It is the same.. Being in shape become the most important aspect. it doesn't matter, if one handed or 2 handed. My 9lbs hand hammer is more than most will swing even with a sledge weight wise..

I missed the edit opportunity.. So will add this now.. There are distinct difference between how a beginner hobbyist smith will work and a professional.. The range in between.. The building up process for muscle and warming up is important no matter where you are in the spectrum.

First off.. forget most of what is said.. There are tidbits of gold in all of it.. But.. Because of use, we all have a finite number of anything in simple normal daily use and it varies strictly by person.. It has nothing to do with better or worse ways or what have you.. There are better ways to hammer and worse ways but it all comes down to "WHAT WORKS BEST FOR YOU" There are so many varied techniques with people claiming that if you work this way or that way that you will have less pain and a longer useful life span.. If you are a chair jockey and expect to forge like a beast on the weekend forget it. My observation is simply this: Start off with the lightest hammer you can swing for a given amount of time and expect to be sore if you don't do a given activity regularly.. This is weight lifting plain and simple. Go and watch the newest video of making the carving chisel. It shows me in my form for working on an anvil that is 2 inches lower than what I prefer.. I can safely work on and anvil that is 2" lower to 2" higher than what I prefer.. With this said, I was sore after working for 4 hours.. this is normal as I am using more muscles in a way they are not used to. With this said. Most can not do this.. I can do this because of getting in better shape and being in better shape or forging shape will offer the best outcome of any hammer adventure.. ( GET IN SHAPE). This can take 3 months or 3 years depending on how much forging you do.. Going to the gym can help.. The biggest thing that happens is someone will start to forge and move up in hammer size to quickly and also not forge enough for a given hammer size and this leads to injury.. The other thing is to warm up thoroughly before you start swinging hammer.. Start off with a light hammer and make a nail or 2 in a slow fashion or make something that takes swinging but use a light hammer. Again warm up. Now as for hammer size.. I swing a 4lb hammer on a normal basis and also use a 6lb hand hammer as well as up to 9lbs with 1 hand.. But, I have had to work up to the 4lbs hammer over about 2 years and this is the key.. Start with a small enough hammer that you have some muscle soreness but no joint pain.. If you experience joint pain stop and move to a lighter hammer and swing lighter.. Pay attention to what your body is telling you.. A 2lb hammer might be good for a general hammer for someone young enough and working as a carpenter or laborer but as you age and sit in an office all day its important to keep this in site.. People often forget that as they age, they still think of themselves as a 20 year old stud.. then at 55 wanna swing that 10lbs sledge and get hurt. Blacksmithing is not dangerous as many will have you believe, and taking it on at any age is possible.. But common sense needs to be applied and common sense can run in short supply. Many will say not to bend at the waist to stand up straight and swing from your elbow.. Or to keep a light grip on the hammer handle and let it swing or pivot in your fingers using the rebound from the anvil to help bring the hammer back up.. (there is no rebound energy when hot metal is hit so is bogus) until the metal gets cold enough then you move into burnishing vs forging.. Anyhow, get in better shape, use the smallest hammer you can that offers control and if you want to use a larger hammer "DO NOT" start using that hammer all at once but bring it into use over a period of months... use it for a few heats and put it back down.. I have found that introducing a larger hammer this way, most people don't get sore, gain more hammer control on their normal hammer becoming more proficient and with a short time frame move up in hammer size and have great control and they swing it like they own it. So, take your time, introduce the hammer on and off till you forget you are swinging the larger hammer.. Get in shape either through hammer time or going to the gym.. Work on bicep, triceps, back, stomach, and legs.

Rojo Pedro, Practical blacksmithing was my bible for many years. I love that book. I would use the book as a forging exercise book with each chapter or skill set presented as a skill set to accomplish. I spent many a time making whiffle tree clips but have never needed one.. Anyhow, what I did find is this book was for people all ready in the trade with a skill set in place.. So, some information was left out.. Not because they left it out as a secret, but was left out as common knowledge not needing explanation. Still one of my favoirte books and a great one to have in the library. The Blacksmiths craft was my other favorite.. Now of course Mark Aspery's books are very good.

Aus, what are they selling for price wise? they are great..

Your welcome.. It's a great book an the author looks at a very practical way of knife handling and what ideally should be in a knife to make it functional and useful.. publish date is 1998. But when we start to look at heat treatment and such there are better books out there if you want to know why it works or how it happens.. there are a bunch listed in resources I believe. I posted a whole bunch of them awhile back. I'd do a cover to cover read a few times.. The segment on one of the knife makers towards the back was interesting. the one about the guy who was on ripleys.

It's a pretty good book. there is a bunch of modern information that is up and coming when this was written. . All information like this is good information so read, enjoy and keep reading.. It's an interesting read for sure.

Nice tool, nice work.. And Studebakers were originally blacksmiths and wheelwrights.. Of course they got into making cars but kinda neat. What was all the red blood on the deck from?

Any titanium dive knife will not carry the cutting edge most are used to.. the alloys are not great and for the money are an ok knife. I used to make and sell a special designed knife for scuba for cutting lines but not cutting your own suit.. Most line entanglements happen in spots you can not see and usually are right against you so using a knife can cut both the suit (not much of a problem in a wet suit but disaster in a dry suit). I used to make the knives out of 300 or 406 series stainless and they cut well in use but the edge would not hold an edge like 440C.. but a knive will rust and have had many 440c knives break at the tange/handle because that area never dries and stays with salt water on them. The 308 and 406 knives never rusted and were designed to come apart for cleaning. They were forged, then were cold forged, then filed, polished and handled with Delrin. Anyhow, I was a dive instructor, worked with GUE and the titanium knifes were not very good at holding an edge.. the metal is not hard per say. NOt like carbon steels but its far more important to have a tool that will last and is the reason the TI knives came on scene and stayed.

IF&C We should discuss your comment as for preventing scratches draw filing or otherwise.. A file will load up with particles stuck in the file as the teeth wear.. The chalk fills these wave troughs and helps to keep the metal just removed from sticking. Basically a file is a series of tops and bottoms and can be looked at as a wave or sorts. These piece of metal that will stick in between the teeth in the root of the trough will gall creating a scratch or very deep scratch.. It is not the teeth of the file doing the scratching or galling. Technically it is galling that is taking place.. But. I find I barely ever need it when draw filing if I blow the dust away as I work.. The chisel video will show this in number 2.. Now when cross filing vs draw filing the clogging of the file with bits is much more likely as the chips are only so long and can not move out of the way of the tooth profile behind it and will lock onto that tooth and seems as though it welded to that tooth.. the file card is used to remove that stuck cutting or chip.. If this does not work, use a piece of flat brass about 5 or 6" long and use this the same as the file card in line with the teeth working across the file.. Use the front end/edge of the corner to force this chip,burr out/off the tooth.. This is proper cleaning and will lead to a longer life.. CGL, when you find your files are getting dull they will go to showing a reflection of light on the top of the tooth.. there are file sharpening services which cost much less than a new file. Hit me up when the time comes and I'll share it.

For welding I own a complete set of leathers and am covered head to toe.. I have fully length gauntlet gloves a full leather jacket with neck cape. The helmet goes over the neck cape.. I had put on a double set of snaps on the front of the jacket with an extra layer of leather so sparks and such can not go under it.. I also bought boots that the tongue is on top of the shoe vs inside.. this way it will shed spatter instead of burn a hole through the tongue. I also use and Papr setup for those hot days where I am getting setup. I have lost so much hair from being burnt or having hot spatter or flux rolling across my scalp.. while a bald man maybe attractive a bald woman is like a hairless cat.. It's just not seen that often.

The shoes you used originally was a full swedged shoe. Most likely a heavy training plate. The shoe shown is a plain keg shoe. Robert, you did a great job on the photos and description of the work. Loved the photos. I love the forge. Electric blower or hand crank? Do you get a lot of radiant heat from the shell over the top? I have a wood fired forge that I designed much like yours but with an external shell that feeds warm air to the stack, both to create a helpful air draw to minimize draught threw the fire, but also to minimize the radiant heat externally. The reflective heat inside is a huge help to drive of gasses and create charcoal faster. Do you find that your generating enough charcoal or are you using up the burning material to forge with. CGL, that's a mighty fine mule shoe. Hard to come by and to find.. Yard find? Potato demon, I started out knife or blade making. It's a great way to learn hammer control. I would suggest using a block anvil or scrap anvil like object because you will have a bunch of missed hammer strikes and while gaining hammer control on one sided tapers. Also dont be in a rush . Focus on the hammer strike and the way the hammer face meets the work. With taking your time, and this focus training you will gain skill the fastest vs trying to be fast. This is one of those things where slow is the fastest.