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MonkeyForge

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Everything posted by MonkeyForge

  1. When you scale down the burner you scale down most parts. 1/2" inch T would have a 3/4" to 1/2" redducing T fitting, a 1/2" nipple and a 0.023" mig tip. (Anyone correct me if I have my imperial wrong). In these cases it is the ratios that matter. On my phone now so cannot easily find all the threads discussing the 1/2" T burner, there are a couple.
  2. That looks like a 1/2 inch Amal injector. There have been a couple of threads on them here on iforgeiron. Apparently with the right orifice size they can be tuned to be pretty hot and when used in a forge do not necessarily need a flare. (if I remember correctly) These are just 2 In no specific order I hope they are useful to you: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/59893-helium-tank-forge-with-amal-burner/ https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/60905-amal-burner/
  3. Hoi Thijs, This looks very promising, slip casting was on my list but never got around to trying it. I added the molochite clay to my mixture to counteract the shrinkage and water repelling properties associated with bentone somewhat. This worked for a clay body but I don't know if it would for casting slip. I'd have to try. Also this means less % zirconium silicate. It would be interesting to see your plaster molds in detail. All in all a nice contribution to the homebrew ceramics part of this forum. Keep us posted.
  4. Good question. I have been considerering this myself in the past. In theory a castable layer inside a soft brick forge would take 1) the direct flame contact, 2) prolong cool down time after shut off. (If thick enough) Whether or not point 2 will prevent degradation of the brick due to thermal shock is the interesting question. Of course different kinds of bricks have different properties when it comes to resisting thermal shock, I think some people with more recent experience on that will chime in. Long story short: potentially good idea. Maarten.
  5. I found it best to mix the components dry, I used a tumbler made from a piece of pipe.
  6. I found my old post. I found it best to my the components dry, I used a tumbler mad from a piece of pipe.
  7. This is Correct, it does have similar properties as Veegum in that it can take forever to dry. Using as little water as possible helps. I can confirm I had issues with cracking but this was when using only bentone and zirconium silicate directly applied on ceramic wool. I had better success adding a small percentage of calcined kaolin clay to the mix. This inhibits shrinking and decreases the drying time somewhat. Adding paper fiber increases the dry (green) strength and eases molding somewhat. I should have the exact numbers for the above mixture somewhere. I'll post them here when I find them.
  8. Looks like the gauge indicates in MPa , megapascal. 1 MPa =10 bar if I googled correctly. So yours is in the 0 to 6 bar range. Which is overkill but gives you room to work in. (I run between 0.5 and 2 bar for 2 * 3/4 T-burner) I will leave bar to psi conversion to you.
  9. MonkeyForge

    Amal Burner

    Tim Gunn on this forum has used them extensively if I remember correctly. A quick search yielded this thread: The have been discussed in other threads a number of times. From what I know they make a quality product. Good luck.
  10. Hi Daedelus, Nice build. I will leave the flame evaluation up to the experts in the Burners 101 thread. I am also based in the Netherlands so I feel your pain getting parts. When it comes down to iron/black iron/ tainless fittings in imperial (be it BPT or NPT) most stores will not carry them any more, even the ones specialized in gas and heating. (I don't know if you are Dutch native or expat but for terminology this may make a difference) Also most copper plumbing will be metric so will have to convert at some point. ( which is evident from your photos as well) I can DM you some sites that are NL based and hold the plumbing you need in case you need to build a smaller burner or need new parts. The burner in your picture looks a bit over sized for the forge in the same picture. I made some T burners here in NL and a 1/2 inch Mikey burner that I will not discuss until it is proven.
  11. Being that member from the Netherlands: I have no conclusive results as of yet. I managed to get a shape from my clay/grog/zirconium silicate mixture (including paper fiber for molding and dry strength) But it has not been put to the test under heat yet. I have a lot going on at the moment, still read the threads here almost daily. I am mainly interested, at the moment, to see if we can take the zirconium silicate/molochite/bentonite mixture and have it double as both refractory and ir reflective coating. Refractory it is as I had it baked as a porcelain in a potters kiln at 1300/ 1350 centigrade . Apologies for not having anything conclusive but I thought it made sense to report the experiment is not dead, just stalled.
  12. I mixed everything dry, put all the powders in a jar with a lid an rolled an tumbeled that. The mixing instruction for bentone are different from the one for veegum. I remember reading on digital fire they recommend " a powerful. Mixer". If your mix is very Mike's paper towel suggestion may work, drywal or a plaster bat will too. Beware of of drying to fast though.
  13. Sounds like you have a plan. If you have the option to fire ceramics I would recommend making some small test tiles or even making the a couple of floor sized test tiles so you can use them in case of success. If you want a good comparison for reflectiveness you may best start with an uncoated chamber, e.g. just the zircopax "pot" and floor, coat after a couple of uses. Good luck and keep us posted.
  14. Merlin, The project happens to be a successful experiment. I had some failures which I then analyzed. That is mainly the trick to improving results. Either that or following a known, proven plan to the letter I just like mucking around and seeing what happens to learn how stuff works. As Mike says you seem to be doing fine. Just take notes of what you are doing and do your best to understand why stuff did/did not work.
  15. I was thinking to make an additional tile that slides in and out of the half tube. As the half tube sits on top of the slab. I intend to take the whole assembly to welding heat and weld. Even though the tile may be resistant to flux, molten borax will leave a bit if a mess so it is nice to be able to take a part out for cleaning. I have high hopes for flux resistance in this material but for now it is untested. Seeing is believing. . The test tiles I made before are very hard and dense even at 5mm and also very resistant to shock an abrasion. On a side note, uncoated ceramic wool will melt when exposed to molten borax. A simple thin coating of zircon, blanket rigidizer and kaolin will prevent this, though not indefinitely. Some other members here may attest to that.
  16. These particular pieces contain paper fiber which I mainly used for the added green strength and it somewhat speeds up the drying. Also I knew I needed to transport them. For the percentages I used: - Zircon 66.91% (or 82.19% minus water and paper) - Bentone 2.23% (or 2.74% minus water and paper) - Molochite 12.27% (or 15.07% minus water and paper) - Paper fiber 3.72% - Water 14.87% I will do a complete write up later. I am curious to see how this performs under heat. Next step is to make two parts for the front and back of the half cylinder, insulation and a shell.
  17. I have been able to make some nice shapes with a mixture of Zirconinum silicate, Molochite (calcined Kaolin) and Bentone (similar to Veegum, different brand) I had it fired as a porcelain at my local potter but small tiles can be fired in your forge. Getting the ingredients at a pottery supply in small quantities can also prove costly compared to other refractories. The aforementioned mixture roughly costs 6 dollars per pound. I would not be able to answer your question regarding cerium oxide as I have no hands-on with it. (Also pretty happy with Zirconium silicate mixtures I have tried so far without additions) Picture below is my latest experiment, still in the green state. A flat floor and half a tube. (it has survived firing but have no pictures yet.. I will start a separate thread with more details as I build a forge around it.) It is a little over 5 mm thick.
  18. I think you are making good progress and I am looking forward to more of your results. I will probably construct e new small (150/200 cubic inch) forge and may consider "converting" one of my NA burners to a ribbon burner. (They just screw on and off anyway ) Frankly I am surprised more people haven't responded to your post. Good luck tuning and looking forward to more.
  19. If it is well built a small forge will be about as durable as a big one. (Depending on how you use it, how long etc.) I worked with a 100 cubic inch forge and a 1/2 inch T burner for a good while and it was sufficient for most blade work. With a pass-though opening on the far end it can even accommodate longer work. ! inch burners are pretty much up scaled versions of smaller ones. 3/4 is twice the output of 1/2. 1 inch is twice the output of 3/4. If you look at most burner plans you will notice that the ratio of air intake to mixing tube matters and the orifice size for the given burner tube diameter. Most of this is discussed in the burners 101 thread pinned in the gas forges section here. The design you posted in October has quite a deep (long) chamber, you would probably be better off with 2 x 3/4 inch burner to evenly heat the entire length. If you really want to use a bigger burner a single one inch should suffice. 2 will be over kill for 750 cubic inch. You state you 'feel' that 2 one inch burners will work well. what do you base this on?
  20. I have had similar issues with shrinkage but mostly on drying. a 4 to 5 mm coating on the arched ceiling of the forge cracked severely during drying. The cracks did not widen on firing so this indicates most of the shrinking occurs during drying. Using less water may be beneficial. On the flat floor the cracking did not occur. I used Bentone, a refined bentonite clay, not Veegum but they are supposedly similar. Drying times are indeed long about a week in a dry shop for the 5 mm coat and it is likely that after this time there is still some water content. Thinner coats and/or a lower water content in the mixture are probably a good way to go. Another thing to note is that the mix is really sticky which is a plus for adhesive properties bubt makes troweling a bit tricky. I may in the future experiment with adding rigidzer as a glassy binder this worked for me in a mix with Zirconium silicate and kaolin. Besides the cracks in my last experiment the coating is still pretty tough after firing, especially on the un-cracked floor part. I'll patch the cracks with an adjusted mixture sometime in the future and keep you guys posted. Also on the list is to dewater after mixing and use as a clay rather than plaster, I am curious as to how well the mix will stick to wool in this consistency. Picture below is after drying and before firing. After firing it looked pretty much the same. Cheers, Maarten
  21. Hi Vandle, it will be useful if you update your profile to update your profile with your location. We know you are in the UK when we read this thread but will likely forget that when you start another thread. I could also not easily find parts that would easily convert to M6, I did find them in the end. I do not know if they are available or easily available for you but I used a 1/4 female to 1/8 male adapter from Georg Fischer. These reducers can be drilled 5mm and tapped M6 afterward. In most cases it will mean you need to use an extra adapter to get your hose connected. see pictures of the part and part number:
  22. A 1/2 inch burner will bring 150 cubic inch in a well insulated forge up to welding heat 2458.06 cubic cm for us in metric land, or a little under 2.5 liters. the dense fire brick is not insulating and will take some time to soak up heat. For hat treating you will not need welding heat so for starting out the hard brick will at least contain the fire. (I use a hard brick pile for testing burners) You could use a reflective coating on the brick or just use as is for now and order other materials later. How you stack the bricks kind of depends on the size and shape of the work piece. you will need an opening for the work to go in and you will need a chamber to contain the fire. The beauty of brick piles is that you can restack in different configurations.
  23. You state: "Anyways, my goals with this will come in stages. I'm planning to be working on knifes as a hobby and starting with just some stock removal and heat treating. After I find, or make, an anvil I want to move on to actually forging steel." This is a small goal, and also a good goal. I think you will be better of making a small forge. With a good burner your small forge will get metal hot enough to be plastic or hot enough to heat treat simple steels (we have threads on heat treating). I think most principles will scale up from a small forge/burner to bigger ones. If you cannot get any of the required materials in small quantities a large fore will be appealing but you can probably order a large quantity of materials and build a small forge. you should have enough left to build a bigger one when you need it. For specifics forges 101 and burners 101 in the stickies are a good read. And heed the advice of the guys posting in your thread prior to me. They are a wealth of information.
  24. Mike, I have not tried drying my mixture on plaster first, I rather processed it right after mixing the powder and adding water, as far as I read on digital fire Veegum has this same property. After about a day the tile will be more like clay and can be bent. After several days it is hard. What The guy at Digital fire does is mix his Veegum and Zirconium silicate, dry on plaster until it is plastic and no longer sticky so he can throw it on the wheel. I imagine that I can do the same with Bentone.
  25. Just take in to account that this particular mixture has a long drying time. After mixing (for me) it was sticky between 3 and 5 % Bentone. Adding more water will just make it a slurry or cause the Bentone/bentonite to gel after mixing. When I made my test tiles (96% Zirconium silicate to 4 % Bentone) the consistency would be as follows: - Sticky, good enough to plaster or press - After forming and drying for day or 2 (depending on water content) it would be more like clay and plastic - When dry it will act like dried clay, it will hold together but don't try to bend it. Note that above does not have the water in the equation of the mix, I added it until I had a workable consistency. When the mix gets sticky I could trowel or press it into the form I wanted.
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